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Abs light


Bstevo
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Hi, I have a Suzuki 1250fa, took the front wheel off to paint and removed abs sensor to allow wheel to be removed. When refitted the abs light is off and abs not working. Seems that the abs is not registering in the ecu. Even the Suzuki dealer is foxed so has anyone come across this before? Thanks, Brian.

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more likely than not.. the gap is incorrect, the gap between the sensor and the ring. or.. you fiddled when you should've faddled and broke something,


a similar thing happens a lot for AT owners who still run tubes, or have the tyre changed (by a muppet). they put the wheel back on the wrong way round.. so the ring is not on the same side as the sensor.

Edited by Gerontious
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Did you take the ABS rotor off. If so there is a correct way to refit. There is an out side mark on the rotor.

Also as said check sensor position.

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Hi, never took the rotors out ,just cleaned them up. There isn't any adjustment so no point in feeler guages and never disturbed the sensor wires. Suzuki agent says changing the ecu should do it but not sure. So much for expensive so called experts!

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Hi, never took the rotors out ,just cleaned them up. There isn't any adjustment so no point in feeler guages and never disturbed the sensor wires. Suzuki agent says changing the ecu should do it but not sure. So much for expensive so called experts!

 

Wouldn't listen to that. Have you got any fault codes (apart from the ABS) I assume you have run it with the ABS light on

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You took the sensor out so you need to check the spacing from the rotor.

If the ABS light does not come on when ignition turned on, first thing to check is ignition fuse 15A behind left side cover.

There are 10 steps for checking when the ABS light does not come on with the ignition. The above is the first check. The rest are continuity checks on the ABS unit wiring. Wiring problems can cause this fault.

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Looking at the internal connection diagram for the ABS unit, the ignition switch feeds the ABS light which by default is turned on by the ABS unit. After a short time of riding the internal “switch” is then turned off.

If it was working ok before you removed the wheel what has changed?

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Was looking into this as it intrigued me , especially When the garage said he needed a new ECU, had a look at this switch initially

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WATERPROOF-Dealer-mode-tool-switch-Suzuki-GSF-Bandit-1250/263681590346

Seemed a bit more useful than just the piece of wire (although you could make one with a switch and 2 bits of wire), and this SDS which seemed good value for £80

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32333913636.html

and it does other Suzuki's

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Hi, no fault codes and bike rides fine , fuses all ok so a bit stumped. Would like it to work , when something is fitted it should work really. Will spend some more time on it as I don't like to be beaten. Will let you know of any developments, thank you all for your ideas, Brian.

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Checked all fuses again over the weekend , a separate 20amp and a 15amp in lhs cover and power coming out of them both. Removed sensors and refitted them, no adjustment possible. Still looking...

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Checked all fuses again over the weekend , a separate 20amp and a 15amp in lhs cover and power coming out of them both. Removed sensors and refitted them, no adjustment possible. Still looking...

 

But did you check the sensor distance 0.3 to 1.5mm.

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