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Nicer or shiter?


Guest cwarrener
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Got my new(ish) CBR yesterday. WHOPEEE! (Ahem). Not keen on the nose graphics, whats the easiest way to get them off? Chemicals? Heat gun? Scratching!? Here's a before and (hopefully) after!

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2056/2421550594_c4db90f270.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2366/2420736599_476e0a69a9.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3005/2421550410_17f07c0ecc.jpghttp://farm3.static.flickr.com/2393/2420736925_46390da1b2.jpg


Any comments welcome!

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leave them


the paint will be discoloured and will show once decals have been removed


they dont look that bad


plus when it is sale time the next buyer will start asking questions :)

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I'm with Stu_m on this one.

The decals will be laquered after they were put on and removing them will be a nightmare and will never look right. :(

How about a custom paint job if you don't plan to sell the bike on afterwards?

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I'm with Stu_m on this one.

The decals will be laquered after they were put on and removing them will be a nightmare and will never look right. :(

 

:stupid:


And besides, look what a mess of the indicators it makes! :lol:

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I'm with Stu_m on this one.

The decals will be laquered after they were put on and removing them will be a nightmare and will never look right. :(

 

:stupid:


And besides, look what a mess of the indicators it makes! :lol:

:stupid: S.........leave it as it is looks fine to me :D

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Alright you've convinced me, I'll leave them for now! I did idly pick a small corner off today...wish I hadn't now...! I'd love to get it sprayed black and the wheels yellow/orange/red, what sort of price would I pay for that?

(I'll go ahead with the recessed indicators, one's bent already)


Also, where would I source some suitable epoxy and glass fibre to reinforce some fairing cracks from the back? Just to hold it together?


Cheers

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Cheers Stu! I'm actually too cheap to own Photoshop, I use "GIMP" cos it's freeeee! :)

Oh yeah, I haven't got my Haynes manual through the post and I..um...haven't worked out what a mysterious unmarked 3 position switch on the RHS does....I've left it in the middle....I hope it's not important....?? I'm hoping it's either Nitrous or spinning wheel-spikes of death...

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does nobody know what my mysterious switch does?? :?

 

Please ask one of the girls .............


We mainly men's men in here ....


But you could always ask Rooster :twisted: :lol: :lol: :lol:

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Peeling of the graphics are a piece of pee but can get a little time consuming. Your right with a little heat from a hair dryer will aid the removal. as for paint discoloration it will be minimal if there is any at all. a good quality wax will help blend in the non polished areas which can be slightly dull.


The cracks in the plastics can be repaired with fiber glass but i wouldnt recommend it (ask F4113N peter) i did his CBR600 and it looked poo. The stuff you need to do the repair you can get from halfords but it is a plastic repair kit - its VERY expensive as a kit. It consists of chemicals that weld the parts together chemically, and has patches of webbing to aid strength in the area of repair.


The DIY kit can be less expensive but dosent work in quite the same was as halfords chemicals.


DIY.


get a small jar, about the size of a branston pickle jar!. Fill it 1/3 up with ACETONE. Get an old broken piece of same fairing (from scrapper) cut it in to as small a pieces as possible. Add the bits to the jar of ACETONE. Stir untill the liquid turns into a thick goo.


PREP area.


Using a small piece of cloth (lint free) clean the area ON THE INSIDE of the fairing with ACETONE on the cloth. This does 2 things it cleans the area of grease and starts to react with the plastic ESPECIALLY the cracked part. Dont use too much ACETONE as it may run through the crack and mark the "good "side. To stop the acetone running through the crack use some gaffa tape to hold the crack together it its correct position..


WELD


I use Q tips cos they are less expensive than paint brushes. Use a Q tip and apply the goo from the jar to the inside of the fairing over the crack with a 1/2 inch overlap either side of the crack. Apply lots of coats and allow to dry in between applications. get a NON HEATED fan and do this IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA ACETONE is VERY FLAMMABLE.


sorry for the length of post but had a bit of time on me hands!


Elf

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Oh and the only bit thats lacquered on a Honda will be the tank graphics. They can be covered with a leather baglux tank cover. I personally think the bike would look better with no graphics. It certainly works for Ducati!


Elf

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Cheers for all that info Elf, I'll cut paste and hang on to it! WIsh I'd hit the comp before I started now...


Got some anti-freeze and a small fibre/resin kit from Halfords first thing, took the backside fairings off and the cracks weren't too bad so i just stuck some superglue in, left it an hour, gave it wobble and it holds ok (cowboy job I suppose, but they're tiny and it's only to stop it spreading for now. I'll try something more long-lasting later, no garage=need good weather).


Touched up the wheel rims with a brush, and also fixed that wonky front indicator and the internal plastic shell that was cracked in half (glue again - sorry!). New flush indicators coming Monday, wish I'd bought the rear arrow indicators from Halfrauds now!


You're right about the lacquered tank graphics, and I think I'll GIMP it in red to have a look at the effect. The more time I look at the bike the more I love it, but I still think the graphics date it.



Oh yeah, that switch was just a light/parking/off thang. Thought my main beam was banjaxed! Hooray! One thing less to fix!



Until I get £solvent£ again, I'm thinking of just buying 1 bit of fairing a week from Ebay and practising my filling/sanding skills till I've got a complete set and then just get the whole lot sprayed cheap by a mate.


Thanks for all the advice!

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  • 1 year later...

This is my first post, and would like to thank Nigelf for that information. I've been hokeing around the internet to find the best way to repair hairline cracks - and this really does sound the best way.

A couple of questions though - I'm no expert but I'm assuming the mix hardens as the acetone evapourates?

What would the 'life' of the mix be if it's in a sealed jar?

The bike I'm working has been standing for a good few years and there's a lot of rust marking on the front of the panels where the bolts have been. What would be the best way to remove them? (The bike is white).

Thanks in advance

Stevie

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