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Bike won't roll forwards or backwards freely


Ehcbr125
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Hi thanks for your reply. 

The last thing we had done was the rear tyre changed along with the chain and sprockets. This was done at a garage not by ourselves. It's the same guy we've used for years now with no problems. So really at a loss. 

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Chain loose, brake binding, possible clutch issue.

Does it roll with the clutch pulled in when in gear, is it in neutral and not slipped into a gear.

Should keep you busy for while :thumb:

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Would a loose chain really cause this? I dont think it is loose but will check again.

I have tried to look up symptoms of a binding break but cant find much as this was our first thought. 

Will try it in gear with clutch in as we haven't tried that yet. 

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4 minutes ago, Ehcbr125 said:

Would a loose chain really cause this? I dont think it is loose but will check again.

I have tried to look up symptoms of a binding break but cant find much as this was our first thought. 

Will try it in gear with clutch in as we haven't tried that yet. 

Copied from google :thumb:
 
What happens if my motorcycle chain is too loose?
A loose chain has the potential of coming off the sprockets altogether. This means you'll lose power to your motorcycle even though the engine is still running. ... Or it's possible for it to jam up in one of the sprockets and cause the motorcycle to abruptly stop.
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1 minute ago, dynax said:
Copied from google :thumb:
 
What happens if my motorcycle chain is too loose?
A loose chain has the potential of coming off the sprockets altogether. This means you'll lose power to your motorcycle even though the engine is still running. ... Or it's possible for it to jam up in one of the sprockets and cause the motorcycle to abruptly stop.

Good old google! I actually never knew that! One thing I will say that I should of mentioned it that it will move. Almost like pushing it with the back break engaged if that makes sense and after a while it does loosen so it moves more freely if that makes sense 

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There are 2 reasons that could have  caused this problem

1. Rear wheel repair not oen correctly. I know you trust hte guy, but everyone can have a bad day.

2. Corrosion has caused something to sieze, common this time of year because there is now salt on the road.

Put bike on the centre stand. Raise front wheel clear of the ground and try to rotate it. It should be easy to rotate and continue to rotate after you stop pushing it. If not easy, main culprit lilely ot be the brake, less lilely wheel bearings

Repeat with the rear wheel.

If either wheel is hard to rotate listen and look at what is happening. Try rocking it back and forth.

If the brake is binding there will be no free play, the drag will be fairly constant. If its a drum brake try to move the arm on the backplate, they often sieze into the backplate, after you apply the brake it should be released by the spring, try pressingthe brake pedal and see what happens. You my be able to see which part is sticking. Check there is free play the pedal should move about 10-30mm before the brake is on.

Have a look to see the chain is adjusted correctly, should have about 15-30mm play. Check the wheel spindle nut is tight and the adjusters are correctly positioned,

Good luck, report back with what you find.

 

 

 

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1 minute ago, Ehcbr125 said:

Okay, now I can call the garage and know what to tell them to look at. Dad has mentioned the warped disc also so may well get him to come and have a look tomorrow. Is this dangerous do you know?

If it is warped depends by how much, but ideally would be better replaced :thumb:

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If been ridden in the wet and then brakes could bind ..

Give the brake calipers a thwack with a Rubber Mallet/ piece of wood (and same on the brake drum if drum brake )

 

Also have you made sure its not in gear ?

False neutral can illiminate the neutrsl indicator but still be in gear 

 

I presume it left their garage fine ?

(Check the rear drum torque arm is still connected as if not rear brake will lock on if drum brake)

 

Edited by TimR
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