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Fazer 600 2003 manifold bolts


jedibiker
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@Mississippi Bullfrog No I thought id try the 3in1 spray as its worked well on other stuff, and I did work the bolt back and forth 1 or 2 mm to get it free, and the one side was easy. Middle look terrible and even with little movement they snapped.

But when it comes to getting the studs out I agree something stronger is needed. So just looking at plusgas on ebay. I will admit and you can laugh, but I thought plusgas meant add heat lol as the product hasnt come up in any thing ive seen recently. Until i googled it and heard of its reputation.

 

@skyrider Il look that up thanks

 

 

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7 hours ago, jedibiker said:

plusgas arrived, stud remover arrived, awaiting studs/nuts and gaskets then its good to go.. also have copper slip for install. Might video it for a laugh. Think frank spencer with tools

Hi, Good luck, but you might find that the Stud extractor you have won't grip on a rusty 6m/m bolt, especially if they are broken ones, and also they are large and around the exhaust/head you ain't got a lot of room.

I have a set of IRWIN 7 piece power grip extractors I use for exhaust studs, that and plenty of Normfest super crack ultra.

But yes wish you luck👍

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Studs with brass nuts is a very common practice on all vehicles . As stated , the soft brass will give way before the stud snaps . 

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7 hours ago, Keeper96 said:

If stud extractors work you’re a lucky guy! 
 

pretty much every horrible rusty stud I’ve came across had required lots of heat and the big mole grips or the welder 

Just seen a post on google say they are crap on 6mm studs, and it says it works from 6mm. So now a little worried.

 

Also looks like the radiator might need moving a little or taking off as a pipe blocks one of the manifold bolts.

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3 hours ago, jedibiker said:

Just seen a post on google say they are crap on 6mm studs, and it says it works from 6mm. So now a little worried.

 

Also looks like the radiator might need moving a little or taking off as a pipe blocks one of the manifold bolts.

8mm surely . I've never seen 6 mm exhaust studs . 

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15 hours ago, fastbob said:

This worked for me . It's really small and good for confined spaces . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324399411824

might come to that if the chuck style doesnt work. My chuck tool seems to close smaller than 6mm so I may get away with it lol

 

@fastbob yeah they are 6mm.. crazy i know.. I took one nut off and the new 6mm one went on.

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4 hours ago, jedibiker said:

might come to that if the chuck style doesnt work. My chuck tool seems to close smaller than 6mm so I may get away with it lol

 

@fastbob yeah they are 6mm.. crazy i know.. I took one nut off and the new 6mm one went on.

I broke a chuck style tool before I bought this one . 

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An engineer once told me that if you tap a stud GENTLY and for a prolonged period with a pin hammer you will eventually hear a change in the "note" as the corrosion breaks down a bit allowing the 2 nut method to work.

Certainly worth a try as it is non destructive and can`t make the situation worse especially if you are waiting for your new stud extractor to arrive !

Cheers

Ian

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If its a bugger to get too ...

Regardless of how much faff or that it is to do Make it more accessible .

Remove the fairings/radiator etc etc and have unhindered access and you are not constantly worrying about twatting the rad which you will then need to remove to fix .

 Trying to save time by limiting your work space just increases the time as your tools are always too long/short or your hands and fingers don't bend in 15 directions simultaneously.

 

 

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@Ian Frog I have the chuck tool but some say it doesnt grip, but it does tighten very small, it seems some dont tighten it as its meant too. But the tap method cant hurt to try for sure

 

@TimR I thought I could do it simple but looks like taking the radiatot off is a plan, plus fan housing looks shit so might give that a tidy up too.. :)

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20 hours ago, linuxrob said:

May as well do a coolant change while your on. good chance to clean up the front of the motor too.

 

Best of luck

Yeah, will need to drain it so will put fresh in, while im at it will sort any rust and paint bits of frame that look crap. So a small ish job has turned bigger but im looking forward to doing it.

 

Ive never taken a radiator off, so assume if I drain it, remove then re install and fill up, there is a way to do it so no air gets trapped?

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On 08/02/2021 at 13:58, Mississippi Bullfrog said:

I always refill cooling systems very slowly. Bikes tend to airlock less than cars.

Too true Bullfrog. get a manual or a person who has done this on a Fazer before. 

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well, only 3 nuts came off ok, had to cut 2 off and others snapped.

 

The stud chuck tool is shite as suggested and snapped one stud and exploded on another.

 

Also the chuck tool wouldnt have fit in most spaces anyway. so will order the one suggested. typical manifold nightmare.

 

 

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