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Changing chain and sprocket things


James in Brum
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I have used welding wire when I didn't have the right split pin. I would be a bit wary of using an R clip, only because I use them on my boat trailers to retain trolley wheels and people nick them. They are too easy for some idiot to remove.

 

 

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High gang. 
help me out again please. Book says I need non hardening thread locking stuff to fix the new sprocket to rear wheel. 
i cannot find such a thing on the net. I can find thread lock, and plumbing thread sealant. I need to be able to get it from a shop today unless one of you says it is not necessary.

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13 minutes ago, James in Brum said:

High gang. 
help me out again please. Book says I need non hardening thread locking stuff to fix the new sprocket to rear wheel. 
i cannot find such a thing on the net. I can find thread lock, and plumbing thread sealant. I need to be able to get it from a shop today unless one of you says it is not necessary.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/LOCTITE-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker-Adhesive/dp/B0068NKLQ6/ref=sr_1_15?dchild=1&keywords=lock+tight&qid=1618646973&sr=8-15

Edited by KiwiBob
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Re grinding the chain ...

Remember where your fuel overflow / vent pipes are !

 

Sparky sparky

 

The norm is to grind the heads off two of the rivets and then use  the chain tool if needed. But generally the outer plate will fall off or lever off easier .

 

 

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14 hours ago, James in Brum said:

Thanks.

furst bigger hurdle. I thought that the riveting tool was the pin to break the chain and may have knackered my tool :-(

 

image.jpg

I have a much better rivetting tool than that one that you are welcome to borrow . 

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2 minutes ago, onesea said:

Depends what tools you lying around but is there a reason you could not use bolt croppers..

A bit dramatic but that would work . I just use a small abrasive wheel on a standard drill to grind the heads off the soft rivets . Then , with the link positioned on the rear sprocket , I just get a big flat screwdriver and a hammer and wedge it behind the side plate . A couple of whacks and job done . 

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4 minutes ago, James in Brum said:

I used a Grinder and just cut through. That was a few hours ago. Waiting for new specs then home to try and sort it all :-) I have r-clips, split pins, thread lock and copper grease thanks to Halfords :-)

What! You only bought the things you need? Poor show that chap. A trip for parts needed is always an excuse to purchase extras that will one day come in useful. 

 

Easier to sneak into house that way.

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13 minutes ago, Mississippi Bullfrog said:

What! You only bought the things you need? Poor show that chap. A trip for parts needed is always an excuse to purchase extras that will one day come in useful. 

 

Easier to sneak into house that way.

 

Especially tools, letting the side down :lol:

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I remember when starting the planning for redoing my kitchen. I convinced my Wife it would be too difficult to do for me without a cross line laser level and a shiny new jigsaw :lol:

 

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51 minutes ago, Tiggie said:

I remember when starting the planning for redoing my kitchen. I convinced my Wife it would be too difficult to do for me without a cross line laser level and a shiny new jigsaw :lol:

 

 

Do this all the time! 

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Okay, spacers. I think I have them in the right order. I have checked parts diagrams. I just want to check because the one that fits against the baring seems to stick out and is free floating around the axle if the axle is through. Is that right?

 

9B85A930-FCC5-4862-B3F6-1CB4249854C7.jpeg

D942B7AF-1790-4199-9302-E7B38B20E4C3.jpeg

070489A8-9133-4154-9945-EC49E96D44F0.jpeg

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10 minutes ago, James in Brum said:

Okay, spacers. I think I have them in the right order. I have checked parts diagrams. I just want to check because the one that fits against the baring seems to stick out and is free floating around the axle if the axle is through. Is that right?

 

9B85A930-FCC5-4862-B3F6-1CB4249854C7.jpeg

D942B7AF-1790-4199-9302-E7B38B20E4C3.jpeg

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Yes it has to float otherwise it would tighten up on the bearings etc 

 

As long as you have the right top hat spacer in the right place ...there are 2 if i remember correctly ...the one shown and one in the cush drive housing .

Both are different lengths so ...be sure 

Edited by TimR
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I have a spacer I cannot seem to fit. I think it goes between the calliper bracket and the swing arm. I am not 100 per cent sure and I cannot quite figure out the parts diagram. 
where am I going wrong. Is it just that it is tight and will require some fiddling? 
I did not spot this spacer when I took it apart hence my confusion.

image.jpg

image.jpg

image.jpg

FA9CC4F0-636A-4964-9EF5-3F9B068B021C.png

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26 minutes ago, TimR said:

Yes it has to float otherwise it would tighten up on the bearings etc 

 

As long as you have the right top hat spacer in the right place ...there are 2 if i remember correctly ...the one shown and one in the cush drive housing .

Both are different lengths so ...be sure 

Cush drive housing? I have two spacers that could be described as top hat, I have one on the left and one on the right, I kept the one on the right on the axle so I think I have them the right way round.

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21 hours ago, James in Brum said:

Thanks.

furst bigger hurdle. I thought that the riveting tool was the pin to break the chain and may have knackered my tool :-(

 

image.jpg

On thicker chains you need to grind off the link end, then use the tool. its too tough on thick tough chains. (oops read the rest of the thread lol sorry)

Edited by jedibiker
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