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2000 CBR 600F cutting out after 2mins


Phillaw
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Hi All,

My cbr600f seems to be having trouble getting fuel and I'm struggling to find out the reason.

I put the choke on start the bike up which starts up fine. Within 2 mins the revs start to drop and cuts out. I go to start the bike up again and it just ticks over.

It seems like the fuel isn't getting through, anyone got any ideas or have experienced this?

Cheers

Phill

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Not clear what's going on. It is usual for a bike with a choke to start fine and then as the engine warms up the richer mixture will cause it to run lumpy and then cut out. You need to reduce the choke on most bikes quite quickly after starting.

 

If it restarts and idles ok then what's the problem?

 

Or are you saying that when you restart it there's no throttle response? In which case check the operation of the throttle mechanism first. 

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I've had a couple of these bikes of this year, if you're leaving the choke on that could be an issue. Even on the coldest day it only needed about a minute on choke before you backed it off. I'm surprised it cut out though, but maybe the idle is set low anyway and combined with the lumpy running is too much?

 

Alternatively, the bike has a fuel pump. If that fails it runs for a few minutes and then runs out of fuel, it lets fuel through but not enough to keep it running even at idle. 

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So it cuts out after about 2 mins on idle with the choke on. Tbh I haven't tried taking the choke off sooner.

 

When it cuts out if I go to start the bike again, it doesn't actually start over. I have read things about it being the petrol pump, is there away to check if this is the problem.

 

Apologies as you probably can tell I'm new to bikes.

 

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1 minute ago, fastbob said:

Kinked , split or detached  vacuum hose . Does it run on PRI ( Prime Position ) ? 

Oh , it's fuel injection is it ? Sorry then , I've no idea . ( Visually check any sensors ? )

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This is still unclear. If you leave the choke on too long it will be over rich and this can cause the engine to cut out. It will often then be reluctant to start as the plugs will be flooded. So that could just be that you're leaving the choke out too long.

 

But the bit about just ticking over - as above - is that a lack of throttle response or are you saying it idles ok once it restarts when warm?

 

What happens when you operate the throttle? 

 

Some bikes have fuel taps with off, run and prime. That's what prime position means.

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Thanks for the reply. I will try taking the choke off earlier.

When I said ticking over I mean when I'm pressing in the ignition after it has cut out then all you can hear is clicking.

I've not touched the position of the tap, should it be on run?

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2 hours ago, Phillaw said:

Thanks for the reply. I will try taking the choke off earlier.

When I said ticking over I mean when I'm pressing in the ignition after it has cut out then all you can hear is clicking.

I've not touched the position of the tap, should it be on run?

Ah - ticking over usually means idling.

 

Just clicking is your solenoid operating, but the electric current is collapsing as soon as the starter draws load. Then the solenoid clicks back in again and it repeats. A hot engine is harder to start than a cold engine due to increased compression.

 

So my guess is that you need to take a look at your battery and the connections to it, particularly the earth connection at the frame. 

 

Make sure the connections are clean, give the battery a good charge, then start it and use the throttle to get a bit of heat into the engine, then push the choke in as soon as it will idle without choke.

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Cheers for the advice. As soon as this rain lets me I'll check the terminals and then try releasing the choke earlier.

 

Hopefully it's just a combination of me leaving the choke on for too long and a loose connection, which is causing the problems.

 

Someone also mentioned it could be blocked carbs.

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9 hours ago, Phillaw said:

No it's carbs. What do you mean by prime position?

Well on most , but not all fuel taps , there are usually three positions . Run , Res ( Reserve )  and Pri ( Prime ) Prime is for filling up the carbs by bypassing the vacuum operated fuel tap after work has been done that required the carbs to be drained . If you have a defective vacuum line , the bike should still run on Prime position thereby identifying the fault . 

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4 hours ago, Phillaw said:

Cheers for the advice. As soon as this rain lets me I'll check the terminals and then try releasing the choke earlier.

 

Hopefully it's just a combination of me leaving the choke on for too long and a loose connection, which is causing the problems.

 

Someone also mentioned it could be blocked carbs.

Blocked carbs aren't going to cause the solenoid to click and the starter not to turn.

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21 hours ago, fastbob said:

Oh , it's fuel injection is it ? Sorry then , I've no idea . ( Visually check any sensors ? )

I assumed it was EFI when you mentioned the Petrol Pump . 

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So I checked the terminals, which are all secure. Started the bike up with the choke and soon as revs were ok took it off and the bike was idling ok but still after a few mins just cut out. When I went to restart all the motions were there to start over but the engine wouldn't start and there's a strong smell of fuel.

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Is the smell of petrol coming from the exhaust? Probably just unburnt fuel going into the exhaust when you try to restart if so. You're not using choke or too much throttle when you try to restart either? It only needs choke when properly cold, and just a tickle of throttle to get it going when hot.

 

The earth connection for the battery is on the rear bolt of the starter motor. Make sure this is tight and corrosion free, and let me know the result. Middle left side of the engine.

 

How long does the bike take to restart? Does it need to be completely cold, or just left a certain amount of time?

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It can take a good few minutes for it to start again. 

As you can tell I'm a bit out of my depth here so I've bit the bullet and took it to the garage.

Cheers for all the advice and I'll let you know what the outcome is.

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On 01/10/2021 at 14:10, Phillaw said:

Hi guys so it turns out it's the petrol pump which causing the problems.

 

Glad it was sorted! It did seem likely, as on that model you could turn the fuel off, but if you turned it back on it wouldn't start, you had to leave it for quite a while so if the pump didn't work, fuel would seep by the pump over time but then you'd only get a few minutes.

 

When I last bought one, the fuel had been turned off to drain the carbs (it had been stored). When I turned it on it wouldn't start even after a few minutes, and I noticed when I flicked the key on/off the pump made a quick "glucking" noise. I flicked the key on/off about 10-20 times and it quickly became a clicking sound, and the bike fired up straight away. Seems to be a really rudimentary priming system, so if it ever happens again, listen for that click/gluck noise, if it's not making it then it's likely the pump isn't working. 

 

Now enjoy the bike!

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