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2004 Suzuki GS500f - Bent Chain Adjuster Bolt


macjaffa
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Aaaah, 

 

I left the stupid wheel lock on (it's not stupid, I am)...and bent the bolt on my chain adjuster.

 

I am looking for a replacement, although the part is apparently discontinued...but I have some second hand on eBay I could grab...after Christmas 😒....a few questions:

1)   The part looks the same as in the earlier GS 500's...is it actually the same as the earlier GS?

2). My chain is too tight.  On the sidestand it has about .5/.7 inches of play (if I push it up from the middle).  While waiting for the part...I've had the bike three months...I assume it has always been a bit too tight, but I didn't realise.  Still...now I know...is it okay to ride?  Because...

3). Until I replace the part in the pic...I can't loosen the chain.  I believe that to loosen the chain I need to turn the nut anti-clockwise..  I might get half a turn out of this bolt...do you think I should?  Would the bolt snap?

4). I take it I have to completely remove the back wheel to replace this part?

 

As always...thank you for any help.  

IMG_3317.thumb.JPG.e29e496c3de5202f7ea309c31e133c95.JPG

 

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Just to add...I've seen people describe the chain measurement in two ways.  One is taking it from where it sits naturally, pushing up and then measuring....that is the measurement.  The other is to push it down, measure, then push it right up and measure...and THAT is the distance (the aimed for inch).  I did the first...so....that would mean my chain tension is okay, would it not?   In which case...I can leave the adjuster as is...at the moment.

 

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You measure the total distance the chain can be moved from the lower to the upper.

 

So if I've read you right then your chain should have between 1 to 1.4 inches of movement. 

 

If that is within the spec then you're ok to ride it. Don't ride it with the chain too tight. That can cause more serious damage to your transmission. 

 

£50 is a bit eye watering for one of those.  Invest in a reminder cable for your lock.

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Don't push the chain down. Take a steel ruler and hold against the bottom run, roughly in the centre between the wheel and front sprocket take a reading from the chain as it sits, the push chain up until it stops and then take another reading. That is how much play there is in the chain. 

 

PS, always find the tightest spot on the chain before measuring if possible

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Sooo....thank you everyone....

 

An update...I was able to loosen the chain using the adjusters...even the bent one allowed enough turns so that I now have an inch chain slack, measured from near the centre stand, when it is up.  I have an inch from a low to high measurement, which is correct...I rolled the bike back and forth and remeasured...it seemed pretty consistent.  I figure that as long as the chain is adjusted well, I can ride it...and I can take my time getting a cheaper, second hand adjuster...have returned the £50 one!  I tightened the axle to 50lbs...as I believe is in spec??  I then remeasured the chain and it made it tighter (why?) but I repeated it all, tightened the axle and it's a good slack now.

 

The last part of this job is to ensure I had the wheel aligned after adjustment...(I did the same amount of turns on the nuts, but...yeah).  I measured from the centre of the swingarm pivot cap to the centre of the axle nut, on each side.  It measured the same, although measuring alongside the exhaust was awkward.  I went for a little ride and (apart from judders that I think were my imagination) it seemed fine. 

 

However....the adjuster plate on the right side is loose.  Should I be worried? 

 

Here's a vid of it (in a Google Drive link).
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bgNNR4CV5mq8qn9Zi2v1MAP73Btwrei3/view?usp=sharing

 

In my mind it indicated that the right side of the wheel should move forward....to make it snug.  

But so far....thanks so much for all the info and advice...I did take advice on avoid riding while the chain was tight...and this has all saved me money too!  Thanks!
 

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9 hours ago, billy sugger said:

Don't push the chain down. Take a steel ruler and hold against the bottom run, roughly in the centre between the wheel and front sprocket take a reading from the chain as it sits, the push chain up until it stops and then take another reading. That is how much play there is in the chain. 

 

PS, always find the tightest spot on the chain before measuring if possible

 

OH!  

 

So many vids on youTube push the chain down, take a measurement, then push it up (past the midpoint where it usually sits) up to the farthest point and then take a measurement...the gap being the slack.  But this is incorrect?  Haha...have I done all this to double the slack that was actually okay?  🤣  Got to just laugh, if that's the case. 

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24 minutes ago, macjaffa said:

 

OH!  

 

So many vids on youTube push the chain down, take a measurement, then push it up (past the midpoint where it usually sits) up to the farthest point and then take a measurement...the gap being the slack.  But this is incorrect?  Haha...have I done all this to double the slack that was actually okay?  🤣  Got to just laugh, if that's the case. 

That's the way I've always done mine. So far the sky hasn't fallen down and no kittens have been harmed 

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20 minutes ago, Mississippi Bullfrog said:

That's the way I've always done mine. So far the sky hasn't fallen down and no kittens have been harmed 

 

Ha, I say that..."Well, the sky didn't cave in, so I'm winning!"...but sorry..to clarify...which way?  Just from the middle up or from low to high? 

 

And do you have any thoughts on the adjuster plate being loose, like in the link, by any chance?  Thanks!

 

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I do mine lower to upper.

 

My adjuster plate often works loose after I've tightened the axle nut. Once the axle is tight, the chain is at the correct tension and the wheel is aligned just tighten the nuts on the adjuster arm to secure the plate. It's not going to affect the wheel alignment or chain tension as that's held by the axle nut.

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11 minutes ago, Mississippi Bullfrog said:

I do mine lower to upper.

 

My adjuster plate often works loose after I've tightened the axle nut. Once the axle is tight, the chain is at the correct tension and the wheel is aligned just tighten the nuts on the adjuster arm to secure the plate. It's not going to affect the wheel alignment or chain tension as that's held by the axle nut.

 

Ohhhhhhhh....okay...that's awesome, thank you!  

 

So....this looks like a happy ending!  Everything has a bow on it...and all's well!  

 

FFFANKS EVERYONE!  I'm using the bike to go and finish some Christmas shopping, then. 

 

😁

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1 hour ago, Old-codger said:

AS others have said if the axle nut done up tight it wont move but if it concerns you just nip up that nut probably 1/4 to a 1/2 a turn to take the slack out of the adjuster plate.

 

That's great...thanks.  I will do...I have the axle tightened to spec torque so I can adjust the plate nut and make it all snug. :)

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2 minutes ago, Yorky said:

 

Pervert !!😉

 

haha 

 

1 hour ago, Mississippi Bullfrog said:

I had one of those many moons ago. It was really nice to ride. The only reason I got rid was that on mine the paint fell off every time it rained. I was forever touching it up. 

 

I am enjoying mine..but I look forward to getting a bigger bike next year.  Used to have a VFR 800...was rather nice.  

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On 22/12/2021 at 16:35, linuxrob said:

sure a 600 bandit one will be the same?

I have a GSX600F the adjuster looks like it is the same.

I think you will find the chain is now tight because of the damage to the adjuster.

A 2nd hGSX600/750 should do the job.

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