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125 twin kick-start issue


billy sugger
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I have a CB125 t2, (twin cylinder, 1980)

The issue is the kick-start. When I bought the bike the sellers bought it out running. I handed over £880 and stuck it a van to bring home, and that's when the fun started. At home it would not start, no matter what I tried, so I had a good look at it, and discovered numerous faults, among them timing was out by two teeth, there were no rubbers connecting the carbs to the air box, (they no longer make them, and they are a special shape) and it burnt oil. The rubbers I fashioned out of 40mm car hose and I redid the timing, fitted new points etc, and eventually got it running, enough to take mod 1+2 on it. Once that was out the way it meant I could use my 250 again so the 125 had a big strip down. I ended up needing: new barrels as one badly scored, hence the burning oil, new valves, guides, seals, pistons + rings. Eventually I had it sorted, but one niggle remains. The damn thing is a pig to start, though once going it ticks over nicely, and I think it's linked to the kickstart lever. From what I can assertain the lever is the correct one, but it hits the footpeg on the downstroke, so it's like only getting half a revolution out of the engine. If you remove the foot rest the lever travels further down, so engine turns over more. Due to the lever shape it only fits on the splines in one place, so the lever can fold back out of the way, in a recess next to the clutch cover, so, my question is after all the rambling, what is wrong? PS, the pegs are original, and just bolt to the engine and have a dowel that fits in a hole so will only fit in one place

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Here are the pics I promised

IMG_20220122_132436.jpg

 

 

I noticed the frame is now going rusty after standing for over a year, so need to get the brushes out. All I really want to do is get it running and sell it

IMG_20220122_132426.jpg

Edited by billy sugger
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Not quite sure what you mean in your first post, Bianco2564, and MB, if you look at the two holes in the hangar behind the lever that is where the footpeg fits, and the lever only has limited travel before it hits it, hence why its not fitted, so I get a better kickover. My CB125s was a similar footpeg/lever set up, but I don't remember that hitting the peg, in fact I think most kickstarts I have had the lever travelled half a circle

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Not quite sure what you mean in your first post, Bianco2564, and MB, if you look at the two holes in the hangar behind the lever that is where the footpeg fits, and the lever only has limited travel before it hits it, hence why its not fitted, so I get a better kickover. My CB125s was a similar footpeg/lever set up, but I don't remember that hitting the peg, in fact I think most kickstarts I have had the lever travelled half a circle. 

Just found a pic online of the 125s.the footpeg is in front of the kick-start, not behind like the twin. Will need to look into this some more, as I'm convinced something is not right 

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14 minutes ago, billy sugger said:

 

Not quite sure what you mean in your first post, Bianco2564, and MB, if you look at the two holes in the hangar behind the lever that is where the footpeg fits, and the lever only has limited travel before it hits it, hence why its not fitted, so I get a better kickover. My CB125s was a similar footpeg/lever set up, but I don't remember that hitting the peg, in fact I think most kickstarts I have had the lever travelled half a circle. 

Just found a pic online of the 125s.the footpeg is in front of the kick-start, not behind like the twin. Will need to look into this some more, as I'm convinced something is not right 

I have just had a gander at different pics of the bike online, and they have the same settings as mine, with only a small amount of travel on the lever before it hits the peg

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Just been looking at some pictures of those and that kick lever does look right. I thought you meant it was fouling the rear footpeg, my mistake.

 

Comparing pictures yours externally looks ok so the suggestion above about wear in the drive mechanism might be the thing to check. The engine ought to turn over sufficiently to start before the lever fouls the rider footpeg.

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9 hours ago, billy sugger said:

Not quite sure what you mean in your first post, Bianco2564, and MB, if you look at the two holes in the hangar behind the lever that is where the footpeg fits, and the lever only has limited travel before it hits it, hence why its not fitted, so I get a better kickover. My CB125s was a similar footpeg/lever set up, but I don't remember that hitting the peg, in fact I think most kickstarts I have had the lever travelled half a circle

If viewed from above, the clamped block of the lever in the cmsnl image is flat. On your pic it looks like its stepped out.

This would cause the arm to be further out from the engine when swung out.

 

Does the arm engage with the internal gearing right at the top of its stroke when you go to kick it or does it go some way down? It does have move a little for the gear to travel along the helix but not far.

When I put the RGV together I remember having a couple of attempts to get it set up correctly

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The arm travels downwards by about30% before it engages a gear and turns engine over. I never touched the kickstart mechanism or the gears when I worked on the bike, I only did the top end, so I have no idea if it's fitted correctly 

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12 hours ago, billy sugger said:

The arm travels downwards by about30% before it engages a gear and turns engine over. I never touched the kickstart mechanism or the gears when I worked on the bike, I only did the top end, so I have no idea if it's fitted correctly 

Well that doesn't sound right, it ought to engage before that.

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