Korben Posted July 26, 2008 Share Posted July 26, 2008 (edited) Firstly why bother:viewtopic.php?t=5755This, although we don't often hear about it is probably not that unusual.----------------------------------------------------------------------------------When I took my CBT I was taught these basic checks.This was setup in a way that it could easily be remembered.POWDERPetrolOilWaterDriveElectricsRubber We also include a D POWDER = the D being Drive - chain tension or drive shaft lube level. Thanks for this Hoody. Now inserted into its place.Petrol. Let's face it you don't want to run out. How stupid are you gonna feel though setting off on a journey and running out of petrol 5 miles down the road when you only live 2 miles from a petrol station. Personally I use my bikes Oddometer which has two resets so I can keep an eye on it. If you don't know if you can trust yourself to reset them when you fill up, or don't have them, then open the tank and have a quick glance. Yeah, you are probably not gonna have an accident because of this, but you may have to leave your bike in a unsavoury part of town to go and get petrol and may find it missing or vandalised when you comeback, or even worse be attacked yourself. Bleedin Chavs!!OilPretty obvious this one. You should all know where your dipstick is and how to check it. If not refer to your manual. (Let me just say at this point, if you don't have a official manual, or Haynes manual then get one. Worth every penny!!) Make sure the oil is above the minimum, and below the maximum. Again refer to the manual, but you may need to have the bike upright and not on it's side stand to do an accurate check. although regarding oil, it isnt always dipstick it will be a little window on the side of the engine.... Thanks PhilWaterThe engines water. Again refer to the manual, but it's basically a matter of checking the water is between the minimum and maximum level. You don't want an overheating bike. Under 'W; include all liquids, i.e. brake/clutch fluids Thanks HoodyHe is right. Check Brake and Clutch levels. These are found on different places on the bike. (The front brake reservoir is normally on the handlebars) Again, please refer to your manual for the places you find it and the correct levels.Drive. Make sure the chain is not too loose or too tight. Again refer to the manual. Check for excessive wear on the chain and the sprockets. Also check the chain is lubed. As a matter of course I lube the chain after ever ride. This is the best time to do it as the chain is hot and soaks the lube up a lot better. Gives of a very satisfying crackle noise as well!! With ref final drive (shaft) oil level, refer to your handbook as final drive boxes have a level plug(bolt) somewhere on them. With this removed the lub should be level with the hole. Thanks Cruz!!NOTE: When you sit on the bike the added weight changes the chain tension. I have been caught out by this!!ElectricsCheck the following works. You may need the ignition on to test these.Indicators (Front and back).Rear Light.Front Light dipped.Main Beam.Brake light using hand lever.Brake light using foot pedal.The hornRubberThis is your contact with the road. It's important!!!!!!Firstly check the tyre pressure. If you don't have a tyre pressure gauge, go and buy one. You can get a perfectly good digital one for about £15 (Probably less). Refer to your manual for the correct tyre pressures.The legal limit for motorcycle tyre tread depth is 1.0mm. Tyres have tread depth indicators which are little bumps in the groves of the tyre. A lot of these will have an arrow on the side wall to indicate where they are. NOTE!! A lot of tread depth indicators are set at 0.8mm Be wary of this when your tyre is getting low on tread!!NOTE 2!! for Mopeds (50cc) the law (Insanely in my eyes) states that their should be visible tread only!!You should also check for bulges, cuts, and cracks in the side wall of the tyre. This sort of problem is uncommon now due to the build quality of tyres, but that does not mean it won't happen!!Lastly for the tyres get yourself a small pen knife, and closely check your tyre for objects stuck in the rubber. You will see small tears in the tread (1mm to 7 or 8mm) These are ok normally, but carefully put your pen knife in and check for foreign object like Glass or Stones. While they might not be affecting the tyre at the point you check them, every time your wheel turns that bit of glass or stone slices a little more into your rubber and it will cause a puncture if you leave it in there. Use your knife to carefully dig them out. CAREFULLY!!!!!!If you find something big in there it's a problem. Nails are not uncommon. I have had 2 in 5 months of riding, although I think I have been unlucky there!! Sometimes these can be repaired. From my first one I was told if the nail is in the centre section of the tyre (Not in the wall or close to the wall) and has gone in fairly straight it is repairable. Take it to a specialist though. If it's repairable its not expensive. £15 from the place I go to.Since getting my bike I have learnt to check other things as well. Check the brakes work. See link above. She was lucky!! I get up to about 15mph then test the front which slows me then test the rear to stop. I do this on the drive where it's safe.One last note. Get a good paddock stand. It makes the world of difference. I know Akey can recommend a good one (Stick a post up mate)I put the post below up as a joke originally, but recently read on another forum about a rider who while riding along on a straight road, clear and open saw his Sat Nav pop off it's stand. He went for it and managed to grab it while riding along. Unfortunately he lost control of the bike at the same time and crashed injuring himself seriously.Make sure everything on your bike, or on you is attached securely. In the split second he had to react he reacted wrongly. None of know what we would do in the same situation. Num 1 FAGS . Num 2 MONEY . Num 3 Mobile Phone . Num 4 EAR PLUGS . Num 5 KEYS (bike ) . Num 6 KEYS. ( house ) .. . Num 7 BIKE RIDING BRAIN . ......... Num 8 . Foget your toubles you wont be needing them . One more thing.... Make sure all your pockets are zipped closed. Very important!! Lastly, if anyone else wants to add to this (Or edit this) please let me know. I am fairly new to biking, but have learnt a lot (Mainly from this site) in a short time. I AM NO EXPERT THOUGH, so you should refer to your manuals and / or a specialist.This guide is meant as a pointer only. Please do not rely on it!!! Neither me nor the site is responsible for the maintenance and upkeep of your bike!!Ooh, ark at me with the disclaimer!! Edited August 11, 2008 by Korben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest philgale Posted July 26, 2008 Share Posted July 26, 2008 nice one korb, should help a few people out...including me although regarding oil, it isnt a dipstick it will be a little window on the side of the engine.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Korben Posted July 27, 2008 Author Share Posted July 27, 2008 nice one korb, should help a few people out...including me although regarding oil, it isnt a dipstick it will be a little window on the side of the engine.... Only just noticed this mate.It is true, some bikes have this, but others still have good old fashioned dipsticks. Mine has!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 yeah a few bikes still have a dipstick and even a dipstick for checking the oil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoody Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 We also include a D POWDER = the D being Drive - chain tension or drive shaft lube level.Under 'W; include all liquids, i.e. brake/clutch fluids Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 Num 1 FAGS . Num 2 MONEY . Num 3 Mobile Phone . Num 4 EAR PLUGS . Num 5 KEYS (bike ) . Num 6 KEYS. ( house ) .. . Num 7 BIKE RIDING BRAIN . ......... Num 8 . Foget your toubles you wont be needing them . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoody Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 .............and this is how we learn............ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Korben Posted July 28, 2008 Author Share Posted July 28, 2008 Num 1 FAGS . Num 2 MONEY . Num 3 Mobile Phone . Num 4 EAR PLUGS . Num 5 KEYS (bike ) . Num 6 KEYS. ( house ) .. . Num 7 BIKE RIDING BRAIN . ......... Num 8 . Foget your toubles you wont be needing them . One more thing.... Make sure all your pockets are zipped closed. Very important!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Korben Posted August 8, 2008 Author Share Posted August 8, 2008 BUMP.It's been edited. Again please feel free to add input! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest akey Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 stands,OK you have 2 choices, either a paddock stand one of 3 types, or an abba stand.Paddock stands come in 3 types and lift the back end of the bike only (by the swingarm)Under swingarm fitting (no mod required to bike, can only be used with normal swingarms)Bobbin type - this uses a bobbin fitted to the swingarm the paddock stand then connects to the bobbin. These are more secure than the under swingarm fitting ones. Also called race paddock stands.Single sided swingarm paddock stands - do what they say on the tin.finally there is the abba stand these are the best stands IMHO they connect to the swingarm pivot and lift the rear of the bike off the ground, and then with the use of a small jack you can get both wheels off the ground. You only need new adaptors for each new bike.http://www.abbastands.co.uk/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyberwolf Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 you got the right thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 (edited) .that your not still over the limit from the night before Edited August 8, 2008 by Anonymous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Korben Posted August 8, 2008 Author Share Posted August 8, 2008 One last note. Get a good paddock stand. It makes the world of difference. I know Akey can recommend a good one (Stick a post up mate) I asked him to put a post up. Right thread!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruz Posted August 11, 2008 Share Posted August 11, 2008 With ref final drive (shaft) oil level, refer to your handbook as final drive boxes have a level plug(bolt) somewhere on them. With this removed the lub should be level with the hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted August 11, 2008 Share Posted August 11, 2008 another note not all shaft drives have a leval plug some are sealed just so no one is looking for a drain plug when there isnt one but saying that a lot of them can be drilled and tapped to allow for a drain and a fill hole which gives better life of the shaft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 I don't think they even made a manual for my bike? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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