Western Front Trip 2024

[John Metcalfe]

Well, so after much planning and numerous delays we have finally made it from home in Tunisia, through Italy and into France and to the Western Front, in particular the area around Soissons where the Germans launched their Spring Offensive in an attempt to end the war before the Americans arrived in force.

This are holds personal emotions for me as my great uncle served here with the Sherwood Foresters and was KIA in this battle with his body never recovered. This is the wifes first proper battlefield trip so should be an interesting experience for her. Before we set off I told her to beware of things either on the surface or partially buried and painted bright colours, mainly orange or red along with any markers painted also. She got so excited when we stopped near the destroyed village of Craonne and walked around the wooded area of the California Plateau when she spotted a bright orange blob painted on the grass at the base of a tree, after approaching with caution, me being ex forces, so didn't want her to get too close incase there was a UXO there she was rather disappointed to find that the bomb disposal team had already been and removed the item. So know every where we ride she is looking in the undergrowth at the edge of the road for red or orange paint. 

We have also visited the CWGC cemetary at La Ville aux Bois which is close to where the 2nd Devonshire regiment made their last stand against the advancing german stormtroopers, and were almost to a man wiped out with very few survivors who were taken as POW's.

 

[John Metcalfe]

So after nearly 3 weeks riding around areas of the Western Front along with certain other must visit places we have finally got back home to Tunisia. Then began the task of sorting through over 1500 photographs and videos, mostly taken by she who shall be obeyed I've finally got them down to a manageable amount and seperated into their locations to put on here.

The first batch were taken at the Vauxbuin French National Cemetary plus the German cemetary and the CWGC British cemetary. Also included are photographs of the Soissons Memorial to the British and Commonwealth soldiers lost during the German Spring Offensive in May 1918. All those listed on this memorial have no known grave, there are over 4000 names on this memorial one of whom is my great uncle who served with the 1st battalion Sherwood Foresters.

[John Metcalfe]

More photos from our trip along the Western Front.

These were taken during our guided tour of the Caverne du Dragon on the Chemin Des Dames. This is a large tunnel complex formed by quarrying of the limestone before WW1 and then used both by the Germans and the French during the course of the war. The French gave it this name due to the Germans using shafts to remove smoke etc from within the tunnels and the French said it looked like dragons breath.

All the items on display within the tunnels and visitor centre have been found while excavations were been carried out to the tunnels and during the building of the visitors centre and car parks.

The final 3 pictures are of a memorial created to represent Senagalise and other African soldiers who fought and died in the area and have no known grave.

Spoiler

 

Edited September 24, 2024 by John Metcalfe
Additional info regarding final photos

[John Metcalfe]

More photos from our 16 days in Europe along the Western Front.

The first four photos are from Bucy le Long a small village where there are a number of caves within the woods that were used by both British and French troops during WW1. Access to the caves was either very difficult or impossible due to the amount of undergrowth, a return trip could be required in the autumn or early spring when there is less to restrict access etc.

 

The next nine photos are of the area of the Martyred village of Craonne which was completely destroyed by artillary fire from both sides during the conflict as the area changed hands on numerous occassion throughout the war.

 

The final set are of the area known as Californie Plateau. an area of high ground overlooking the Aisne valley below. This area also changed hands on a number of occassions over the duratiion of the war.

The cut down tree section is marked with a red cross to indicate that there is a UXO below that requires removal by the bomb diposal team who visit the areas on a regular basis to remove any that are found for safe detonation. On this occassion the UXO's had been removed but the red markings still remained. I had previously warned my wife that if she saw or found anything marked in either red or orange paint to leave well alone, she was really disappointed when there was no UXO there.

 

[John Metcalfe]

These next pictures are from the French National Monument des Char's D'Assault (Tank Regiment) who died in the area between 1914/18 and have no known grave. Also on this monument are the names of tanks crews who also died during WW2.

 

As we departed the Aisne area we made a detour to the disused race circuit at Reims-Gueux which still has the grandstands, pit buildings and some of the other structures that were part of the circuit. As this is on public roads and is a very popular tourist attraction the police are rather keen on making sure that the Max Verstappen and Lewis Hamilton wanna be racers behave themselves.

 

Also while we were in Northern France before we left the area we went to meet a friend from when we were teenagers who moved to Bermuda way back in 1984. His daughter was taking part in the Paralympics so we had two days in Paris at the Stade de France.

[Simon Davey]

Enjoying this series of photo's @John Metcalfe, many thanks.

[John Metcalfe]

Thanks for that

We have been home just ovrr 3 weeks and it has taken me most of that time to dort out the photos and videos into a reasonable number to be able to post them without killing the internet lol

The missus went mad with her phone taking pics and videos to ghe point where i have had over 1500 photoz and 100gb of video to sort n edit. 

I mudt admit most of the video is from my helmet cam and the go pro permenantly mounted to the fairing.

More pics to follow

[AstronautNinja]

8 and 13 are my favourite. Some quality grass right there 

[John Metcalfe]

After leaving the Aisne area and visiting the disused race circuit we headed East towards the Verdun area. We initially planned to visit the Verdun battlefields but due to time etc we would save that for another trip. We decided with not visiting Verdun and given that the missus wanted to see some as she put it "proper" trenches unlike the ones around the areas we had already visited which due to them been over 100 years old and located in wooded areas nature had begun to reclaim the area. We rerouted to Massiges where there is atrench complex on top of a hill overlook the lower land below. This hilltop was fought over from virtually the first day of the war until the last.

unlike the "restored" trenches in the Flanders areas which in my opinion have been "clinically" restored these trenches have had the minimum work done to them by the removal of the infill to reveal the trenches system as it was the day the ended.

All items of equipment and materials were discovered during the excavations to remove the infill, including weapons, wine bottles, water canteens, shovels and even beds, tables and chairs. In addition to these item the bodies of fallen French and German soldiers were also found buried within the trenches, as was the common practice. these men have been removed with the dignity deserved and returned to their country of origin for a full military funeral as befitting the sacrifice.

The steps in the 3rd photo are actually formed using shell casings that have been verified as safe.

Also the crosses used as grave markers are actually the original markers used to mark the graves where the are still located. The bodies of the soldiers have been properly exhumed and given the funeral fitting of their sacrifce.

[John Metcalfe]

After leaving the trenches of Massiges we continued towards our overnight stop in an Air BnB in Nancy.

The following morning we set of towards Basel and Mullhouse via the Vosges National Park with the intention of visiting some areas of the Maginot Line. Due to the weather been poor, rain, fog and roads that were to say the least "iffy" especially as we climbed some of the hills where they were only just wide enough to get a bike and a car side by side. Given the standard of some of the driving around these roads and that were was no edge protection and there been a vertical drop or trees as a welcome if you got it wrong it was a case of "slow n steady" to make sure we got through unscathed. A journet that should ahve taken just over 2 hours took nearly 4 so a decision was made to miss out the Maginot Line and head straight to Basel and our hotel.

The following morning we left Basel and headed towards Montreux and Lake Geneva to visit the Freddie Mercury statue on the banks of the lake.  

The first batch of photos are of our journey through the Vosges National park. the next batch are of Lake Geneva and Freddie Mercury statue

[John Metcalfe]

So on our final full day of our european tour we set the sat nav for our hotel in Italy avoiding toll and highway roads.

This gave us the option of using one of the numerous passes over the Alps into italy. After a brief discussion over a Mcd's coffee overlooking Lake Geneva we decided to go over the Great St Bernard Pass, mainly because the missus wanted to see the St Bernard search and rescue dogs. Initially she was a bit apprehensive of using an Alpine pass after the Vosges experience, but after a quick look on Google Earth she relaxed a bit and after another coffee we set off Italy bound.

As a post note while in Montreux I bought a fridge magnet with a picture of Freddie Mercury on it and was "scolded" like a small child for paying 15 euros for it, but as a Queen fan it just had to be done.

However when we reached the summit and arrived at the shop and museum for the St Bernards she ahd to buy a cuddly dog and numerous bars of Swiss chocolate and a "giant" Toblerone that had to be squeezed into the panniers. This "little" lot along with entry into the dogs and museum cost a grand total of 115 euros, so I think the fridge magnet was pretty cheap given that bill.

[Simon Davey]

Not sure I could have managed that high pass, I would need to crawl across and have someone push my bike for me.

[John Metcalfe]

On 29/09/2024 at 20:12, Simon Davey said:

Not sure I could have managed that high pass, I would need to crawl across and have someone push my bike for me.

It wasn't actually that bad, compared to the trip through the Vosges where the roads were not exactly the best, rather "iffy" if I'm honest. They were jst about wide enough to get a car and bike passed each other with little or no room for error on either side. There was no edge protection unless you class trees as protection from a rather steep and long drop.

The roads up and over the Great St Bernard Pass are reasonably smooth and wide as allowable given they up the side of a mountain and they are actually the third highest driveable pass in the Alps. There are plenty of stopping places and cafes etc, so if a rest is needed then its pretty easy to find somewhere to stop. The missus felt comfortable and safe enough to hold her phone to take loads of pictures and videos both up the up leg and then on the way down. She liked it that much she wants to try it again from Italy into Switzerland and then back through another pass so "watch this space" on that one.

[Simon Davey]

Crikey, I'll make a mental note to avoid those areas. 

I can't do hights, even the Dartford crossing has me gripping the bars for dear life. 

[Yorky]

27 minutes ago, Simon Davey said:

even the Dartford crossing has me gripping the bars for dear life. 

 

[John Metcalfe]

I've got my paracute wings and am absolutely terried of heights to the point of climbing a ladder scares me stiff, much to the wifes enjoyment.

The roads on the Great St Bernard pass are most certainly better than the majority of the UK motorways and defo better than the Voges attempt at road surfaces and widths. The pass is actually listed as the 3rd highest driveable pass in the Swiss Alps and is located between the 3 highest mountains in the Alps, Mont Blanc, Matterhorn & Mont Velan and is also the location of the Saint Bernard search & rescue dogs so if you are a dog lover it's got to be a must to visit because if you get the timing right the dogs are out and you are allowed to fuss and paly with them. We arrived when the dogs were having a rest and sleeping, so wife was rather disappointed to say the least, and yes she wants to go back and visit them again.