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Yamaha sr 125 help


stevie16v
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Hi guys n girls. just new to the forum and new to bikes. I have bought a wee yamaha sr 125. Needed a little bit of work which is pretty much complete, but hit a problem. I had to drill out the exhaust bolts were it bolts into the top of the engine, Now i cant get them retapped due to where it is sitting, the frame of the bike is in the road. Ive been told it would be easy enough to remove the top end or the whole engine to retap them! however the guy saying that also said, its only £40 an hour. So trying to save money im hoping someone on here can help me. I have been doing my own work on cars for about 5 years, just never touched a bike so any help would be appreciated

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Hello and welcome!


Some pictures would be useful mate.


Alternatively:


http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil ... 1QodmWig2Q


So if was feasible, you could drill out the holes to accomadate the correct size insert, and hey presto, no need for tapping. I don't know if this method would work, but certainly worth researching. Basically instead of having to tap the hole you are inserting the thread..... I'm sure someone will put me right if it won't work. I will also try and double check at work tomorrow.


Basically the inserts come in all sizes, and you should be able to source them locally to yourself from an engineering supply place...


hope this helps....


EDIT:


hmmm it occurs to me you may still have to tap the holes with these.... when I wrote the above I was thinking it was possible to glue them in (something like liquid metal which holds at up to 600 degrees C).. but I might be wrong....

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Had a couple of people now suggested liquid metal so going to buy some tomorrow, fill the holes and fit a stud in, then i can just put a nut on it. If that fails then ill fill the holes and try to retap them, been told how to move the engine back a few inches which should be enough to give me clearance. Hopefully have good news tomorrow! :)

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I definately saw some at Halfords the other day. Just check the back (small print) to make sure you get the one with the right temperature range. You don't want it melting!!!!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Bit of advice. Dont waste your money on the liquid metal that comes in a tube. Drys like rubber. Wouldnt hold its own weight. Ended up removing the engine, and getting a couple of bolts in. Its holding, not the tidiest job in the world, but will do for just now! When i removed the engine i removed the generator/alternator case, turns out i didnt need to. but i bust the gasket on it, so waiting on a new one to come through, wanted it today but still not arrived. Apart from touching up some wee rusty bits thats about it. Hopefully, fingers crossed i can play on it soon. Got it mot'd and taxed last week, so its just down to me now :)

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At least you are getting somewhere!!! won't be long and you'll be riding somewhere!!


Incidentaly, the liquid metal stuff I use goes rock hard. Hard enough to drill and tap. And I've used it for that too. I've even used it for sealing a molten lead bath.... Sounds like the stuff you've tried wasn't the same... :(

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