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Bike won't start after a stall.


PhatDad
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Hi, I'm new to biking, I'm going to have to stop saying that one day, and crap with mechanics etc. Since saturday I've stalled the bike twice and then ben unable to start the bike again with the electric starter. I ride the suzuki marauder 125cc which has a choke and all that so I'm wondering, is it because I've flooded the engine. I seem to remember that term being used a lot in my youth when messing around with my parents cars and being told not to do certain things as 'That'll flood the engine' and that was cars with chokes.


If so, then what's the best way of getting the bike started again. Today I had to jump start it, never done it in a car and didn't know if it was possible on a bike but it would appear it is as it started on my second attempt with a bit more speed.

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If you're riding with your choke out then that may be why your engine is stalling (don't know the technicalities on flooding etc) but you shouldn't need to ride with any choke.


You should only need choke to start your engine from cold, if it's been running for any period of time then you shouldn't use any choke (hence why not riding with choke out). I know that my bike won't start very well (if at all) on a warm/hot engine with any choke - from experience when i first started. (thankfully a colleague who is a biker was in the car park and came over to tell me what was wrong - nice chap!)



To start after the stall [EDIT: if you've flooded the engine or had tried starting with choke whilst hot]: No choke at all, open the throttle fully, press the starter and then immediately close the throttle... repeat a couple of times and it usually works.

Edited by Christoph
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If i start mine on choke i push i half way as soon as it has started and then all the way in at end of road, when bike warm never use choke at all even if getting bike out of garage on a warm day will not use choke. After stall are ya giving it lods of throttle to try and hurry it up ????

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Oh no this was after half an hour of riding countryish lanes and the the choke was off when I couldn't start it. It just didn't seem to want to spark up. I might change the spark plug and battery anyway as it's a ten year old bike and I hve no record of when they were last changed.

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If you choke a human being you starve it of oxygen, which is exactly what you do to an engine when you choke it. Some of the engines 'suck' if you like would have sucked in air, but now it can't, it just sucks harder on the fuel, meaning more fuel. Theoretically, this means it'll start easier. Running your engine like this however, is basicly running it "rich" ie. too much fuel, which if nothing else will coke up your spark plug.


My bike, perhaps because of rubbish carb settings which need addressing, never starts on coke, and will start much more readily on about 1/4 throttle.


Like said above, learn your own bike, mine used to have the not starting after stall issue, found it helped to have plenty of fuel in the tank, no seirously.


If this all seems like too much of a faff get a later bike with an ECU, because they do all of this for you using sensors and injectors and witch craft.

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If you choke a human being you starve it of oxygen, which is exactly what you do to an engine when you choke it. Some of the engines 'suck' if you like would have sucked in air, but now it can't, it just sucks harder on the fuel, meaning more fuel. Theoretically, this means it'll start easier. Running your engine like this however, is basicly running it "rich" ie. too much fuel, which if nothing else will coke up your spark plug.


My bike, perhaps because of rubbish carb settings which need addressing, never starts on coke, and will start much more readily on about 1/4 throttle.


Like said above, learn your own bike, mine used to have the not starting after stall issue, found it helped to have plenty of fuel in the tank, no seirously.


If this all seems like too much of a faff get a later bike with an ECU, because they do all of this for you using sensors and injectors and witch craft.

 


:lol:

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Cheers guys. It seems to be one thing after another. It's been running fine and starting well even when it's been stood in the cold and nearly snow/rain crap that's been falling. The rear light is now not working and neither is the indicator notification light on the handlebars.


I was too busy to sort it today so tomorrow I intend on going through the Haynes manual and sorting as much out as i can on the bike.

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Hey Slugworth.


I'm trying to sort the bulb out but can't get at the bloody thing. I have to get at it from under the rear mudguard but because of the rear wheel I can't get screwdrivers or spanners at it. Any idea if it's easier than it seems on a Suzuki Marauder?


Where in Notts are you by the way?

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Worksop (S80 3QS postcode)


get a PH2 bit and a 1/4 Spanner and twist... or a ratchet 1/4 with a 1/4 bit and a screw bit (PH2) and wahla right angle screw driver


molgrips also work

 

Damn, you're a bit too far out for you to just nip around and show me then. ;)


I just can't believe that to change a bulb I have to removed the whol rear unit to get to it.

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not that far out really. anyway what a dumb design just seen a photo of the bum and theres not even screws on the lens... anyway if you get a screw bit (philips size 2) and a pair of molgrips on the bit it will give you a very small screw driver but its awkward lol i got work at 1400 so if you do wanna pop down you can or im off 2morrow and we can play?

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Unfortunatley, well fortunatley, depending on how you look at it I have a wife, severely hungover, and young family to take care of so I'll have to take a look at doing it myself. Thanks for the offer though.


Definatley up for a run out next week sometime. I'm free after 11am on Wednesday and Friday till about 2:30pm when I have the school run.

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I managed to fix the light. Bulb had gone but it meant I had to near enough remove the whole rear just to get at it. I thought the Japanese were supposed to be models of efficiency so I question why they made it so tricky to change a bulb.

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