Guest Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 My front disk has been locking down way too hard the past few days all the time, so the brake was ON all the time. So today I stripped the caliper off and cleaned and re greased it all - put it back on - new DOT 5 in the top bit (by the throttle) right to the brim so Its full but -Now my front brake has vey little power. ps. Its still not running freely (front wheel) - its like the brake is trying to be on all the time..Any ideas??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 right , first mistake is youve filled the reservoir beyond the fill line. the max and min lines are there for a reason. Running it full can cause the front end to lock up.....did you disconnect the brake line? you may have air in the line if you did in which case you now need to bleed the line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 There is no max and min lines or if there was they have rubbed off. I just filled her right up. i didnt disonect the brake lines but i did unscrew the nipple to ge the pistons pushed right back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revvin Kevin Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 Do you have pressure at the lever or is it spongy? If it's spongy you still have air in the line and will need more bleeding. If the brakes are dragging then although you have cleaned/greased the calipers, the piston seal grooves are probably corroded causing the seals to bind on the pistons preventing them from returning. Full strip and new seals reqd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 Thanks a lot for the advice, its like you said - No pressure at the lever. Ill have a look at them again tomorrow - thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 if you don't have one, get a one man bleed tube with valve, this means that you can connect to the bleed nipple, slacken it of, and then pump the lever, once you see no air bubbles, tighten the bleed nipple and continue to pump, the lever should go back to what you are used to in terms of travel and feel., otherwise, repeat, ...you can pick one up from the m/bike section at halfords, saves opening and closing the nipple with each squeeze of the lever... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 oh, and be sure to clean up any spilt fluid, as i've seen a tyre destroyed, never mind the effect of brake fluid on paintwork, just wash down with soapy water, once finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 Tire destroyed!? I got loads on my tire! wiped most of it off thoughThanks for the advice ill go halfords tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 I would give your tyre a thorough wash, if you don't do it now, then then damage will be costly..especially if its left on chrome forks or your rims.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revvin Kevin Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 Easiest way to bleed your brakes is to attach a shringe and pipe to your bleed nipple, top up the reservoir, crack open the nipple a little and suck the air/fluid out using the shringe. Once you've started to get pressure at the lever, you can continue to bleed the brakes in the conventional manner. Sometimes cracking the banyo bolt at the master cylinder and caliper can speed things up but can be messy so make you you use clothes to soak up any spillage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 Sorry guys i must say Im a bit confused....If there is air in the system shouldnt it travel up to the resoviour? Isnt air lighter than oil? - - The last time I had this problem I just opened the resoviour - pulled the brake lever tight and then toped it up - closed it and I got pressure... Bad idea?So in simple terms I have to unscrew the nipple, pump the lever untill I get pressure?Thanks for your patience Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revvin Kevin Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 Air will travel up the hose to the master cylinder and can be bled at the top banyo bolt and it can help to tie the lever back overnight but there are lots of places where the air can be trapped within the calipers. Depends how much air is left in there and where so the best option is to re-bleed the whole system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 Sorted them now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TC Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 How did you sort them Luke.What was the fault in the end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 I unscrewed the nipple a bit - pumped the lever and air bubbles came out - then when they stopped I screwed it back in. Opened the top resoviour and filled it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 PSThere is much less brake contact when not braking now - I can feel the bike is getting faster -The front wheel wont spin freely tho - Should it or can you always expect contact? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revvin Kevin Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 You may hear slight rubbing but it shouldn't bind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 PSThere is much less brake contact when not braking now - I can feel the bike is getting faster -The front wheel wont spin freely tho - Should it or can you always expect contact? Well done, A job that you can now do with confidence, and saved a few £ too.. Did you sort the back Brake?Have you solved the tickover? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 Yea I was thinking of taking it to my local dealer, He would have ripped me off royally I should imagine! Tick over Iv just had to up the idle. I think I know what is happening, the idle screw is slowly unscrewing when I ride so when I get to this set of lights about 5 miles into my trip to work, its too low and cuts out. I keep having to re adjust it. Back brake Ill have a look at next weekend - I changed the shoes a couple of months ago but I put it together wrong (the brake works but ) the wear indicator is 180 in the wrong direction for one thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 Yea I was thinking of taking it to my local dealer, He would have ripped me off royally I should imagine! Tick over Iv just had to up the idle. I think I know what is happening, the idle screw is slowly unscrewing when I ride so when I get to this set of lights about 5 miles into my trip to work, its too low and cuts out. I keep having to re adjust it. Back brake Ill have a look at next weekend - I changed the shoes a couple of months ago but I put it together wrong (the brake works but ) the wear indicator is 180 in the wrong direction for one thing Sounds like you've got everything under control. Frankie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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