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Bandit clutch advice


marksmith
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Hi folks,


The clutch on my '99 (actually '97 model year I think) Bandit 600S is slipping - need to change it. No other misbehaviour so I am expecting a straightforward job (famous last words).


Just looked on eBay for the parts and I'm not quite clear what I need. A "clutch kit" seems to include 8 cork discs and nothing else. Is that all I need? No gaskets, springs, pressure plates, release bearings etc?


Never done a bike clutch, as you can probably tell. I'd rather have all the bits before I start because I'll be doing the work in an evening or on a weekend so having to stop and get bits is a pain.


Thanks very much!

-Mark

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No release bearing required.

RH gasket required(definitely).

Some kinda sealant needed where gasket passes over case split.

Id replace metal plates as well, they wear and warp

check metal plates for blueing or high spots.

You shouldnt need springs, but Id chuck in a HD set to be safe.


Ensure you tighten down the pressure plate bolts bit by bit evenly, pretty straightforeward job.



PS, do it on the sidestand and you shouldnt lose any oil!!

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RH gasket required(definitely).

You shouldnt need springs, but Id chuck in a HD set to be safe.

PS, do it on the sidestand and you shouldnt lose any oil!!

 

Thanks very much. I'm lost in acronyms though. RH = right-hand - i.e. clutch cover gasket?


HD? No idea on this one :-)


Thanks for the sidestand tip!


-Mark

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RH gasket required(definitely).

You shouldnt need springs, but Id chuck in a HD set to be safe.

PS, do it on the sidestand and you shouldnt lose any oil!!

 

Thanks very much. I'm lost in acronyms though. RH = right-hand - i.e. clutch cover gasket?


HD? No idea on this one :-)


Thanks for the sidestand tip!


-Mark

 

HD= Heavy Duty

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you'll be removing the clutch cover (the large cover with the oil sight glass), so will need a gasket to replace it.. Heavy Duty Springs.. (HD) especially if your a bit heavy handed with the old throttle..


remember to wind the adjuster at the lever and the engine end in first, then you can adjust once completed.. otherwise you've got new (wider) plates and the clutch is already wound out, like fitting new pads without pushing the calipers back.. its all about space/room..

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Thanks all. Will heavy-duty springs make the clutch heavier? I never had a problem with it slipping before - only since it started to wear - so I'm not to bothered if it's going to make the lever stiffer.


Ta,

Mark

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Thanks all. Will heavy-duty springs make the clutch heavier? I never had a problem with it slipping before - only since it started to wear - so I'm not to bothered if it's going to make the lever stiffer.


Ta,

Mark

 

unless you know the springs are broken, i wouldn't replace them..

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Dont forget that those springs live in a semi compressed state all the time. The lose tension, so when a new clutch is fitted, it can accelerate wear. They are way cheap, so Id consider a set as a good measure.

As has been mentioned, back off the cable so its very slack to aid reassembly.

Remember when its done and you re-adjust the clutch to leave some free play in the cable. Ensure its got maybe 10 mm back and forth play at the bar end before it takes up the clutch.


It will also need adjustment over the next few days as the plates 'bed' in. remember, check those metal plates before re-fitting them.




Rolla.





PS, an extra metal plate at the bottom of the clutch makes a gixer clutch much more agressive and grabby. lol :cheers:

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another for the springs here :)


if i remember rightly they are the same springs used on the TL and they are a must change when a clutch goes in on a TL



might have something to do with all that torque 8-)


also get HD ones :)


if your going to do a job do it properley :D

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it will make a small difference to normal but face it you have been getting used to springs that weaken over time so even standard will seem heavier but im one for HD springs and you will get used to them i promise but as i say it is not a major step up in lever movement strength required

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Thanks all.


Amazingly the full set of parts from Suzuki comes in at over £175! Wow. (Friction plates, metal plates, springs, gasket, cable.)


Full set of aftermarket (with EBC friction plates) is £103.


Set of EBC friction plates and gasket: £60.


Now if my bike were lovely and shiny and new I'd push the boat out and have the full set of Suzuki stuff... but it's 10 years old and not exactly an oil painting. Think I'll just go for the friction plates and gasket. If any of the other stuff looks suspect I'll replace it too, but an extra £115 on "just in case" parts triples the price of the job.


What's the concern with aftermarket friction plates?


Ta all,

Mark

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go on old school suzuki, noone will recommend anything but stock.


aftermarket plates wont last and arent that good in the first place. Ive seen Barnett ones fail within a couple of hundred miles on a B12 :crybaby:

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