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modifying exhaust can


dantheman779
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Ive got a GPZ900R with a motad nexxus stainless exhaust system,it sounds nice and works well but the end can is a little on the long side,so I want to shorten the can itself,I am led to believ that changing just the can shouldnt mean I have to rejet but motad no longer makes exhausts for my bike and as I'm not keen on replacing the whole system ive been toying with the idea of cutting a 4 inch section out of the can and internals and either having the two bit welded back together or wrapping the shortened bits with alloy sheet and rivetting around the ends so giving it a bit more of a modern look,any ideas if this would work? Ive looked at how the can fits to the collector box and it has 2 pipes going into the can after the join so a simple slip on can wont fit?

http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/ss185/dantheman779/Photo-0118.jpg

Any help or advice would be very much appreciated

Many thanks

Dan

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i know a few guys that have lopped loadfs off there cans and not really bothered with the fueling ive even stubbied a scorpion can for an R6 myself and it ran fine and sounded sweet.


slip on cans are dead easy to shorten so if your is pretty much the same your onto a winner.


drill the rivets out remove any banding lopp of the desired amount for titainium i used my dremel cutting discs then take the wadding out and again cut through the inner perferated tube then simply replace the end cap inlet or outlet (depend which end your cutting off) re-drill the holes for the rivets pop the banding back on and rivet away.


i`d just take my time and do a neat job pal dont worry about MOT`s etc you can pop a DB killer or a removable baffle in it.

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TOP MAN I owe you a pint mate,will get the dremel,drill and rivet gun out over the next week or so,will post some pics when I get it done

Cheers again

Dan

i'd run some masking tape over the can (round it) and mark up your line, give you something to follow..


been thinking the same thing with my quill can, about taking 2-3" out of it...

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg250/simonevans73/PIC00958.jpg

now i know how to......

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TOP MAN I owe you a pint mate,will get the dremel,drill and rivet gun out over the next week or so,will post some pics when I get it done

Cheers again

Dan

i'd run some masking tape over the can (round it) and mark up your line, give you something to follow..


been thinking the same thing with my quill can, about taking 2-3" out of it...

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg250/simonevans73/PIC00958.jpg

now i know how to......

 


on urs id shorten the link pipe myself bring the can closer to the engine...

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on urs id shorten the link pipe myself bring the can closer to the engine...

i can probably take an inch off the link pipe as thats all thats spare before the kink, otherwise i'd have to get a pipe bender to increase the angle at the header and put an angle at the top, or i'd be taking out cars with it sticking out....

but if i cut down the end can, will go from the inlet end, no decal or stamping there.. only about 2"..... :cheers:

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alright bud , about the quill i had one on gsxr and cut it down by 6inch or more cant remember exact , it made no diff to the noise as left baffle in, i cut it down as it sounded shit ,had a venom on before that ! now gsxr has a bewolf on and sounds sweet the quil with no baffle is now on the ccm and fick me it is sweet as . so the point being cut it down by 6inch or more ,noise hardly changes and there a piece of piss to do mate , do it from pipe end not the back as if i think long enoughthere is a kink in side which is hard to replicate , oh and use stainless rivets ! used normal on mine and it looked shit had to take them out again ( if u give address i can send stainless rivets and drill bit required , as i did a blue flame for my mate last week and there in my bag

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  • 6 months later...

well, this has reared its head again, as its winter, i've taken a chisel to the can, and its now off (rest chisel against the flange, and hammer), found a company to shorten the can for me for £40 notes including return post.. so hopefully will have a shorter can soon...

PIC01341.JPG.bede5d8b8a05878fb299fe677013c738.JPG

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I have chopped down blue flames and scorpions,it only really improves aesthetics in my opinion,I never really noticed a change in the tone,using a dremil is ok but with stainless it will take a while i would imagine,I used a metal cutting blade attached to my angle grinder 2 minutes and job done.

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i'm only after improving the look at the moment it looks too long, the sound is fine, hence not going and getting a race stubby..


got a company that will do it for me, so need need to buy a dremmel or angle grinder..... (Yet)

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  • 3 weeks later...

well the can was collected from the post office yesterday, and i couldn't wait to get it fitted...

 

shortycan.JPG.3ac4eca95f8963ec2e9d31e337d9bba4.JPG

 

will get a better picture soon, but the tanks off whilst i sort the wiring for the heated grips..


i've decided to move the aux light switch from the relay on wire, (from the rear light) into the power out to lights feed, that way the relay is live from the rear light, and the lights only get live from the switch, but i can cut into the live feed (before the switch) for the grips, which means they will only be live with the standard lights on.. therefore having one relay instead of 2..

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