Ingah Posted June 13, 2009 Posted June 13, 2009 Am going to DIY the oil change on my CB500 tomorrow.I'm probably going to use Silkolene Super 4 oil, 10W40. The Haynes manual says i should use 10W30 (API grade SE, SF, or SG) though, does that matter?Have bought "Oil filter including filter removal tool": http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/parts/part_4538/Reading over the Haynes manual it's all looking simple enough but i could do with some clarification, to quote: "Unscrew the oil filter using a filter adaptor or a strap wrench and....". I think the "filter removal tool"' would cover this task?But it also later wants you to "Tighten the filter securely using a filter adaptor". Would it also cover this task?I've got a socket set, and i believe you attach this filter tool to those tools.One further point: The Haynes manual keeps referring to using a torque wrench to tighten things like the oil filter. I don't have one, so is it safe for me to just do it all up how i think? Quote
Bill_on_a_bike Posted June 13, 2009 Posted June 13, 2009 The filter removal tool should also be fine for refitting the new one. It's just some method of getting a decent grip on the filter, sometimes a nylon strap sometimes a length of chain.As for the torque wrench, I'm not sure, haynes manuals always list torque settings regardless of if it really matters, just to cover there arse if get it wrong. Anything with a gasket or seal, or that's going to be under pressure (eg cylinder head) should be torqued to correct settings really. I wouldn't want to say "it'll be fine", it never mattered on the SR but that had a different type of filter. Quote
Pete Posted June 13, 2009 Posted June 13, 2009 (edited) Lots of questions, but I had the same ones the first time I did an oil and filter change. So:I'm probably going to use Silkolene Super 4 oil, 10W40. The Haynes manual says i should use 10W30 (API grade SE, SF, or SG) though, does that matter? - If you've bought it already then it shouldn't do any harm. However, if you haven't bought it yet then go for the 10W30. If the manual says use it...use it! The main thing to look out for is the JASO marking. You can't use car oil in a motorbike or it'll piss your clutch off. JASO, look for JASO! If JASO isn't there but you're in a motorbike shop, it'll be fine. Just ask matey boy behind the counter...don't use car oil...Reading over the Haynes manual it's all looking simple enough but i could do with some clarification, to quote: "Unscrew the oil filter using a filter adaptor or a strap wrench and....". I think the "filter removal tool"' would cover this task?But it also later wants you to "Tighten the filter securely using a filter adaptor". Would it also cover this task? Oil filters aren't screwed in very tight at all (about a quarter to half an extra turn tighter than you can get it with your hand, if that). Filter removal tools are usually specific to certain filters. I've got a Suzuki oil filter removal tool. However a strap wrench will work on any filter. It's just a...well, a strap that tightens around the filter and goes into a handle so you can turn it. Don't worry about which one to use, they both do the same thing essentially.I've got a socket set, and i believe you attach this filter tool to those tools. Yes that's right. The filter adapter will fit onto a wrench. If it doesn't fit then you might have the wrong sized wrench. Most are not the 1/2 inch sized - they're the other size, I can't remember which! 1/4 inch? Don't worry about it...(incidentally the torque wrench that I recommend below is a 1/2 inch one but comes with an adapter which fits my oil filter removal tool nicely)One further point: The Haynes manual keeps referring to using a torque wrench to tighten things like the oil filter. I don't have one, so is it safe for me to just do it all up how i think? Technically you should always use a torque wrench. However I've done all my filter changes without one. I don't even use a torque wrench on my spark plugs (they need to be screwed in about the same as an oil filter - not much at all). I was worried like you are and asked the guy in the Suzuki dealers and he said the mechanic out the back doesn't even use one. Just use common sense and don't over tighten things (like me. I seemingly love snapping bolts, it's great...but don't do it!). For things like wheel nuts it's best to get one. I got mine from Screwfix for £13!! The nobs have put the price up a bit now, but it's still very good value. People say buy a good one and spend lots, the one I got is fantastic. Cheap but bloody well made. Click here to see it. I thought it might be useful if I put a quick guide on doing an oil and filter change. It's not a hard job, and is a good thing to do yourself.1. Run the bike for 5 to 10 minutes. This warms the oil up and makes it flow better when you remove the plug.2. Remove any fairing that may be in the way of the oil drainage plug3. Remove the oil filler cap (stops a vacuum being created when you take the plug out)4. Get a suitable container ready underneath the oil drainage plug. Using the correct sized socket remove the plug and admire the lovely gloopy black stuff glooping out into your container ( black gold, gloopy gloop gloop )5. Go and have a cup of tea and a sandwich. Let the oil drain for a while to make sure it's all had chance to dribble out. Oh yes, before having a cup of tea don't be a complete lazy sod - remove your filter (no need to do it every time you do an oil change. A general guide is every three changes, but most people do it every time anyway). After all the oil has drained out fit the new filter - remember to smear some oil around the rubber gasket before you screw it in. This helps the filter create a better seal and will also help preserve the gasket. Finger tighten the filter by hand at first and if you have a torque wrench use it. Otherwise use a wrench or strap to tighten it by about a quarter to half a turn more.6. Check the condition of the sealing washer on the oil drainage plug. It's called a crusher washer and should be replaced if it looks majorly crushed. The first time I did mine I couldn't even see it, it was so flat and it took 2 hours to remove!7. Replace the oil drainage plug (with new washer if needed...technically you should always use a new one, but the one I have in mine was new last year so I reused it and it's all fine)8. Using an oil funnel put the oil in. Most bottles have a gauge on the side so you can monitor how much has gone in. It can take a few moments for it to show up in the sight glass nearer the end so don't over fill it or you'll be pissed off.9. Take your funnel out and replace the oil filler screw - I forgot to do this the first time I did a change. Oil pissed all up the inside of my fairing and made a bit of a mess! Needless to say I won't ever do it again I'm sure10. Spin her up and make sure nothing leaks. Expect smoke to come from the exhaust downpipes where oil might have leaked on them a bit from when you changed your filter. That will just burn off after a few minutes so don't worry about itLovely jubbly. Edited June 13, 2009 by Pete Quote
Ingah Posted June 13, 2009 Author Posted June 13, 2009 Cheers for that both!Excellent guide there Pete. Only "downside" is it's added a few bits to my 'pre-maintainence' visit down to Halfords to pick up the bits. Ah well, better having them now then needing them when i've already drained the oil out the bike! (it would be a very long walk...) Quote
Pete Posted June 13, 2009 Posted June 13, 2009 Cheers for that both!Excellent guide there Pete. Only "downside" is it's added a few bits to my 'pre-maintainence' visit down to Halfords to pick up the bits. Ah well, better having them now then needing them when i've already drained the oil out the bike! (it would be a very long walk...) Mate, I've had to buy a bigger toolbox since getting into bikes! The larger one that I have now is bulging around the edges again - all from tools needed to work on the bike. Well worth it though. Once you buy the tools you're set for years and won't have to pay anyone else to do it for you. Quote
Guest Posted June 13, 2009 Posted June 13, 2009 Always wanted a fully kitted out tool kit, never had the funds though! That's an excellent guide though! Quote
Bogof Posted June 13, 2009 Posted June 13, 2009 I'm probably going to use Silkolene Super 4 oil, 10W40. The Haynes manual says i should use 10W30 (API grade SE, SF, or SG) though, does that matter? - If you've bought it already then it shouldn't do any harm. However, if you haven't bought it yet then go for the 10W40. If the manual says use it...use it! Pssst... Pete... the manual says 10W30 Quote
Pete Posted June 13, 2009 Posted June 13, 2009 I'm probably going to use Silkolene Super 4 oil, 10W40. The Haynes manual says i should use 10W30 (API grade SE, SF, or SG) though, does that matter? - If you've bought it already then it shouldn't do any harm. However, if you haven't bought it yet then go for the 10W40. If the manual says use it...use it! Pssst... Pete... the manual says 10W30 Well spotted! I knew I'd put something wrong!@L4Isoside - Just buy the bits you need as and when you need them. Have you seen the film Gran Torino? It's a flipping brilliant film (in my opinion). Anyway in one scene a lad asks old Clint about where he got all his tools from. So Clint tells said lad that you have to work hard and buy the tools one by one every now and then until you have a garage full of tools to impress people with! Good old Clint, he always did like a good laugh. Quote
Guest Posted June 13, 2009 Posted June 13, 2009 Yeah i figured that's the best way. No i haven't seen the film, ill check it out Quote
Guest Posted June 14, 2009 Posted June 14, 2009 when you've dropped the old filter give the face a wipe with a cloth and make sure that the oil sealing ring has come away with the filter, otherwise when you spin the new one on you won't get a seal.. me and Jademongoose found this out... again tighten by hand and then with the filter socket give 1/4 turn,once all done start bike and check for leaks, better now before you get any fairing on or start riding.. Quote
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