jasper090

Turns out it was seized so some assertive hammering has done the job!

Hi, Just a quick one, When removing the rear wheel of the bike, am i doing it right by trying to remove the axle rod? because that's how i do it on all my other bikes but yet so far i seem to be knocking the bearing out at the same time? Could this be because the axle rod is seized to the inside sleeve of the bearings? Thanks

The place where i got the sprocket from have only a larger tooth sprocket in stock, so it would mean i would have to wait for then to get a new one in and frankly i am impatient and cannot be fussed to wait. I will soften the steel then drill+tap it and then harded it again. if it goes tits up, I shall just get the correct size sprocket and learn a lesson .

Right it turns out that the locking washer and the old sprocket that was on my bike originally was 28mm which is for bikes upto 2006, so what has probably happened is my bike was built pre 2008 (as the number plate says) but was registered in 2008 so the parts on the bike are actually pre 2006. So what i have decided to do is drill out two new holes and then tap them to the right size.

Its an after market afam sprocket set (I was told they are a good make). Yes it the locking washer. and one did not come with the new set so I need to use the old one. If i cannot get the old one to fit and cannot find a new one anywhere, does anyone know of a place where i can get a correct size one machined up?

Hi, I just bought some standard size front and rear sprockets plus chain to go onto my gilera rcr 50 as the old ones were worn. However when I came to fit the front one, I encountered some issues. The washer that goes onto the castellated/corrugated drive knob (sorry I dont know the real name) after the sprocket, has the holes in the wrong place - on the sprocket that i took off, there were 4 threaded holes which the washer thing's two holes lined up with. The new sprocket has only two holes and they are approximately 2mm closer into the centre. I shall upload some pictures to so that you can understand me clearer (I realise that my explanation is difficult to understand!). I've looked for new washers however i cannot find any. Anyone have any ideas on what i should do? Thanks, Jasper

Hi, I just had my bike MOTed and to my surprise it passed! I was advised to get a new chain and sprocket as the chain is slightly worn and the sprockets are "hooked" (not a great deal but enough for an advisory) so i am basically wondering firstly what size is best for a 50cc as i know different sprockets effect the speed/acceleration - as the bike has a history of over heating I'd prefer acceleration over top speed as i assume faster = hotter (correct me if thats incorrect). Secondly what make is a good make. The bike is a gilera rcr 50 which has the same dimensions in the sprocket department as the derbi senda 50 and the aprilla rx 50. Thanks I'd be greatful of your advice! Jasper

oh thats annoying! but surly if its been restricted post manufacture then wouldn't that mean it was designed to go a speed pre-restriction that is faster than the current speed??

Oh, so would it need to be upjetted or perhaps a de-resticted exhaust? Well I would like it to go faster because it takes me almost the same time to ride from A to B as it does to cycle!

Right so if its restricted, what is it that I would have to do to derestrict it? yeah I've tried both of those places and no luck .

Hello, I bought another bike a few weeks back as a back up bike to my notoriously unreliable Gilera. I saw it on ebay and bought it because it looks hilarious! Unfortunately its very slow... As in it struggles to go thirty! So I was wandering whether it may be restricted some how? also, has anyone ever come across one of these before? Its in very good condition, it only has 4000 miles on the clock plus all the relevant paperwork - how much do you reckon its worth? I want to know whether i got ripped off (not that I care - bike is quite amusing so it would make up for over paying!) or whether I got a bargain. Also, does anyone know of a place where I could get parts for this bike? Thanks! Jasper

Haha its tempting!

Back of a van .

Okay thanks everyone, Ben you cleared that up nicely. Its worth fitting some rear indicators on then - by the way, front ones flash perfectly normal . Oh and one more question with the MOT's. does the test involve driving the bike? its just i recently fitted a new piston and the bike needs tuning correctly before its ridden properly so that hopefully it wont hole its self again.

Point Blank, that did help thank you. Currently I have front indicators that work but both the rear indicators have been kicked off, so are non existent. Could you just further clarify that please. The only reason I am wanted the bike to go in and pass first time is its a two week waiting list so the chances of me getting a retest soon after its first tested is slim. Thanks again.

Hi, I have a Gilera RCR 50 which is a nightmare and keeps breaking and well anyway, I need to get it MOTed but currently its destined to fail so I was just wandering what are the essential criteria that the bike must comply with to pass? Does it need indicators? Mirror? Working indicators? Working bulbs in the dash display thing? What tests does the exhaust go through? - I did my own little repair using a bake-bean tin so would that be okay? Working fuel sensor? Does it need a stand? All the bolts in the crank case? - The mechanic didnt put them all back!! Horn? Tax? What condition does the break pads have to be in? Thats all i can think of currently. Also... I have had trouble with the piston getting hot and seizing (4 times). Someone said it could be the tuning of the engine as in the timing is too advanced etc, but seeing as it over heats, I am a little concerned that maybe the cooling system isnt working correctly. Forexample after 10 minutes of riding the bike then a 5 minute break, I dipped my finger in the coolant tank and it was the same temperature of a hot cup of coffee (I didnt have a thermometer to hand!) - Would you lot say thats too hot for such a short period of time? The bike doesnt have a fan either, but it looks like any diagrams of the bike does infact show it as having a fan - is this something to be worried of? And, because the piston seizes, it could also be because not enough oil is getting to the engine to lubricate it right? The bike is two stoke but self mixes and the oil tank is probably about 2 liters. Since I bought the bike in october, I probably have topped the tank up (by about 50%) twice which seems like it doesnt use much oil at all (its done 1400 miles in that time). So how could i tell if oil is actually going into the engine and mixing with the fuel? (oil comes out of the oil pipe i've checked). If anyone cold enlighten me on any of my queries i would be very grateful thank you. Jasper

Well I got a new battery its doing exactly as it should be doing which is great! Hopefully the problem will go away now however i suspect that it will rear its head again soon! Thanks everyone for their help and advice!

Right well it works... And is running jsut fine - I just took it apart and gave it a good clean again and its decided to work however because this is what happened previously and then it died again would it be a good idea still to get a new battery? Tango, the manual says its a 12v (4 amp hours). Thanks

Okay I see, well i hope to get the battery tomorrow and i shall report back my results. by the way, the bike runs without the battery and still bogs down - which indicates that it might not be a battery fault as everything is the same when i am bypassing the battery... (battery wasnt completely dry, the electrodes were still wet, there jsut wasnt excess fluid... Thanks again.

Thanks all for your input. When you say vaccum do you mean the fuel tap? The battery does appear to have little fluid in. A new one is only 20 quid so what ill do is buy a new one and then I can eliminate the battery as a problem. So do you guys think the problem sounds more electric than fuel? Colin, from what I understand the battery dosnt actually do anything other than the lights and indicators and its a magneto that supplies the low voltage which the coil converts into high which also charges the battery... However I may be wrong. Thanks again, I am very greatful for your advice .

Battery whilst its not running is 3 volts battery whilst running 4 volts.... seems awfully low to me??

Does the battery actually contribute to the spark? I though it was all done by the coil? and the battery was just for headlights and alike? However what you say does make sense as the battery is near enough w**kered! I shall test the voltage across it as soon as possible and let you know the results In response to the guy asking about the choke - no its not automatic, but I've never needed to use it... Thanks

Hello, Several weeks ago a problem arose with my Gilera rcr 50. The problem consisted of it bogging down (the bike would basically cut out and then come back alive once speed reduced) at speeds in excess of 50mph, this further developed into it bogging down when ever I gave it anything over half throttle. The bike would then fail to start for several minutes and then it would need bump starting (If left for long enough I could kick it over). My immediate thoughts were that it was a fuel problem, so I cleaned the tank, fuel tap, pipe and carb - using a air compressor. However the problem persisted so I changed the plus and cleaned everything once again. But annoyingly the problem was still evident and the bike would continue to bog down. I eventually took it to the local mechanic who was baffled; he cleaned everything and did some fiddling. However it still failed to run smoothly. I then bought a new CDI plus ht lead and plug cap. finally I had some progress, the bike worked like a beauty this morning... Until I rode it back from school - I was going up a hill and the damn thing bogged down again. However this time the bike continued to work in first gear, its only when I went faster than 5 mph (ish) that it would bog down and splutter. After several long miles I decided to go straight to the opposite end of the spectrum and go for 6th gear (struggling like mad) but once I had it at got into sixth and I had it on full throttle it worked just fine... up until i had to slow down into <5th gear and it would bog down... So to summarise: First works okay at low revs 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th it bogs down in 6th works fine even at low revs. It's had a new CDI + HT lead + plud cap + plus Additional things about the bike are: Engine has been re-built with a bored out piston kit Its 2008 model hmm thats about all i can think of currently. If any one has any clue as to what this problem could be I would be tremendously greatful! Thank you, Jasper Mowatt