Guest Mr Miller Posted September 17, 2009 Posted September 17, 2009 As sure as night follows day, following my ‘Spark Plug’ thread, I now have a need to remove my petrol tank!According to my pdf manual, I can remove the seat, remove the bolt and then move the tank without having to disconnect the fuel line & breather pipe.Other than the obvious, what possible pitfalls am I facing? I only need to shift it enough to be able to get my sausage-like fingers around the spark plug cap to unscrew it from the HT lead.I’m hoping to do this tonight so if you can be quick with the info and pish-taking, I’d be very grateful! If there’s a news story tonight about an unscheduled moon landing, assume I’ve done something wrong!Thanks in advance,Mr. M. Quote
Pete Posted September 17, 2009 Posted September 17, 2009 Sorry for my bad memory Mr M but what bike is it again?! If it were me I'd take the fuel tank off completely to gain access to the sparks, that way there's more room to work. If you've not taken the fuel tank off before then make sure you have a full fire proof outfit, including oven gloves, tin foil around your head and a large fire extinguisher to hand.........just kidding. It's easy, just take the seat off, unscrew the bolts holding it down, lift it up about half a foot or so and put a block of wood or similar (I use a paint pot) underneath to hold the tank in place, then remove all the tubes (leave the actual fuel line until last, have a bit of kitchen paper/old rag ready to catch a bit of petrol...not much mind, about a tablespoon-sized amount) remembering what goes where (and don't forget to unclip the fuel sensor lead if you have one). After that you can lift the tank off and set it to one side (I put mine on top of a bucket!) and get to work on the sparks.That's a guide for my bike anyway and I imagine it'd be pretty similar for most bikes. Mine isn't naked so all the nause of taking the fairing off would come first! Quote
Guest Posted September 17, 2009 Posted September 17, 2009 CB SevenFifty, remove the seat, undo tank mounting and slide rearwards, the tank is held at the front by two round rubber blocks, make sure these stay put, or put somewhere safe, and make sure they go back in place prior to sliding the tank back on..once the tank is off the rubbers, you can prop it slightly to gain more access..i use a small bit of wood on its side, where the tank neck is (where the forks go..) Quote
Guest Mr Miller Posted September 18, 2009 Posted September 18, 2009 "....If you believed they put a man on the moon, man on the moon......."Thanks for the replies guys!I was only able to slide the tank backwards a little bit due to the tube from the fuel tap - there was almost no free-play in it but just enough to be able to shove my fingers in and un-screw the cap, which is now sat beside me on my desk!The manual I have says there are a couple of 'locaters' (my word!) that hold the tank steady when bolted back in - nothing fell out from under the tank as there was really no front-to-back movement, it was more a case of me gently lifting up the left side of the tank a couple of cm's!Blokey at the garage said he'd find a cap for me to take home and try, see if that sorts her out once and for all!Once again, thanks for the help, droogs!It is very much appreciated! Quote
Guest Posted September 18, 2009 Posted September 18, 2009 Andy, When you slide the tank forward, make sure it sits on the locators, and have a glance at the hoses, one of mine (Vacuum) came off when i last did this, bike ran like a HD, and then stopped, as there was no over pressure.. you'll spot anything untoward, like a disconnected hose, or kinked pipe... Quote
Guest Mr Miller Posted September 18, 2009 Posted September 18, 2009 Cheers Frankie!There was no way I could slide the tank any more than the 2-3 cm’s rear-wards or ‘rock’ it sideways anymore than the I did without undoing the pipes.The pipe that was causing the initial lack of movement was the pipe from the fuel tap down into the engine (excuse my ignorance as to where exactly it went! ) It was only about 8-10 cm’s long with a little spring fastener for ease of removal at each end......but because time was short last night, I didn’t fancy experimenting!If I were to have plenty of time to fettle and had some tools and a proper Haynes or Clymer then I’d have a bash but I only have an electronic manual of the model 5 years younger - so I'm lacking a bit of confidence!I will do my damnedest to get the tank back on safely and securely – at least I now know what I’m up against!Domo arigato, Evan-san. Quote
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