Guest Posted November 8, 2009 Posted November 8, 2009 Hi all! Well, i got my bike yesterday and i'm loving it.But it could be better. Could anyone help me do the following three?;1. The suspension is a lot tougher than the same bike i used for my cbt. Bumps are felt a LOT harder. Is it failing? Does it need lubing? e.t.c....2. The front brake lever is very tough. Like, from fully off, it only moves like 1cm to full brake. Can i loosen it? So it starts braking a little lower down (if you know what i mean)3. The clutch biting point is quite high (right near fully off), can i adjust it more into the centre of its movement?I plan to do these myself, but if its not too expensive i will take it to a garage. My CBT instructor told me he recently changed the clutch on his SR (the one i used) because the biting point was high, but the garage guy said there was not actually anything wrong with it, it just needed adjusting to bring the biting point lower. Thats what i'd like to do!Thanks very much in advance for any help Quote
Guest Posted November 8, 2009 Posted November 8, 2009 Hi all! Well, i got my bike yesterday and i'm loving it.But it could be better. Could anyone help me do the following three?;1. The suspension is a lot tougher than the same bike i used for my cbt. Bumps are felt a LOT harder. Is it failing? Does it need lubing? e.t.c....FRONT OR REAR - Front, fluid probably needs replacing, Haynes manual will talk you through it.. Rear, are there stepped collars.. using a C-spanner turn up or down. (bike toolkit should hav a C-Spanner)2. The front brake lever is very tough. Like, from fully off, it only moves like 1cm to full brake. Can i loosen it? So it starts braking a little lower down (if you know what i mean)does the lever have a dial (span adjuster) adjust 1 - 4... 3. The clutch biting point is quite high (right near fully off), can i adjust it more into the centre of its movement?yep, there is a knurled adjuster on the lever perch, turning the big big will slaken the adjuster to then turn the smaller bit.. otherwise, follow the cable and adjust at the other end. (i would take a picture, so you know your starting point.. )I plan to do these myself, but if its not too expensive i will take it to a garage. My CBT instructor told me he recently changed the clutch on his SR (the one i used) because the biting point was high, but the garage guy said there was not actually anything wrong with it, it just needed adjusting to bring the biting point lower. Thats what i'd like to do!if you don't have the tools or experience then i'd get a garage to do the fork oil, may as well do the seals whilst he's got them apart... cost £100approx..mainly time, parts is very little...Thanks very much in advance for any help Quote
Guest Posted November 8, 2009 Posted November 8, 2009 Ah sorry i forgot to clarify, its the front suspension thats tough. Ok, i'll ask around some local places. Not sure if it'll be worth doing the forks as i'm only planning on having the bike till spring/summer.Thanks for the answers man! I'll go have a look now.EDIT:Had a look, and managed to do the clutch and front brake a bit!! The clutch, not so much, but a little bit.I found like a screw underneath the front brake, which when unscrewed loosens the brake, now is just to my tastes Thanks lots Frankie Quote
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