Ingah Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 I've somehow managed to make my bike's clutch go wrong (for want of a better term).Earlier today i replaced the clutch (perch) bracket and clutch lever after last month's little drop, and all was well until i tried to sort out the free play again.I spent about two hours trying different adjustments, going from one extreme into the other, even using the Haynes manual to check i wasn't doing it wrong. But it seems that no matter what, the clutch doesn't seem to engage properly (i.e. put on centre stand, then in 1st gear, hold the clutch lever in, and the rear wheel happily spins away!) even when adjusted to the extent that i can't feel any resistance or 'bite' on the lever at all (and the opposite way where the 'biting point' disappears entirely as any lever movement results in movement where the cable connects into the engine).The lever is definitely connected properly, and the cable is moving right the way to the bottom where the adjusters are, and i can't see why it isn't working.But it was fine before i made this 'repair'.Anyone know what i've done wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 Your wheel will always spin even with clutch in... i think its oil drag or something.. Notice that clunk you hear when you go from neutral to first? I had it and changed the oil and it basically stopped, for a while... Put on the rear break and you'll find it will stop with no drag.Set up the free play according to the manual and you should be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 Your wheel will always spin even with clutch in... i think its oil drag or something.. Notice that clunk you hear when you go from neutral to first? I had it and changed the oil and it basically stopped, for a while... Put on the rear break and you'll find it will stop with no drag.Set up the free play according to the manual and you should be fine There should be about a centimetre free play. As Chris has said the rear wheel will spin even when the clutch is in (and in neutral) due to oil drag. Get the free play set up, tighten everything up and go for a ride and see how it feels. Sounds like you've done all right to me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ingah Posted December 3, 2009 Author Share Posted December 3, 2009 Just to clarify - i applied the rear brake each time i was checking the wheel and whenever i let the brake go the wheel started to spin. This did not happen with neutral.To stop the wheel spinning at any point all i had to do was put it in neutral and it stopped within a few seconds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 When you put it in gear is it whizzing round like there's a hamster on speed inside? Or is it going round at a slow enough speed that you could stop it with your hand and not hurt yourself? If it's the latter it all sounds good. If it's the former, and you did stop it with the rear brake, then does the engine sound like it's labouring or no change at all? There should be no change... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 when you replaced the perch did you unscrew the adjuster, to use again or did the new one just have one.. did you wind the adjuster out to something similar to where it was.. this is where you should have started from..with the gears engaged and the clutch in the wheel will spin, get someone to apply the rear brake if the wheel stops by using the brake without changing the engine noise (not effecting the engine) you are fine, it is inertia, once you are sat on the bike and the weight of the bike will overcome this inertia..if the engine is effected, you will need to adjust. MAKE A NOTE OF YOUR STARTING POINT then you know where to go back to... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin the Bear Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 Bike on centre stand. Engine stopped. Adjust lever so that you have a little free play at the lever before it starts pulling the clutch mechanism. Engine still stopped. Select 1st. Try to spin the back wheel by hand. It should just rock back and forth on the backlash. (the play in the drive). Engine still stopped. Pull in the lever and spin the wheel by hand. Should be free. If all is ok , Start the engine, select first and feel for the bite point. Fine adjust to suit your preference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ingah Posted December 6, 2009 Author Share Posted December 6, 2009 Well that was odd. After all that faffing the other day i had it sorted within a couple of minutes when i went out earlier today (whacked the fine adjuster on the handlebars back to roughly where i remembered it being in the past, then slackened the lower clutch adjuster abit more and then hey presto, clutch working like i remember).Thanks for the help all!Unfortunately though, i'm getting relatively near the end of the lower clutch adjusters so don't be all too surprised if i'm back with a related problem in the near future! (when i inevitably have a crack at replacing the clutch plates) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 Unfortunately though, i'm getting relatively near the end of the lower clutch adjusters so don't be all too surprised if i'm back with a related problem in the near future! (when i inevitably have a crack at replacing the clutch plates) Get a haynes manual and don't go straight for the clutch plates, could be a stretched cable....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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