Stubborn CG125 Screw and Bolt

[Ingah]

I went to sort the fork seals for my CG125 and am nearly ashamed to say i managed to get stuck on step 1

The speedometer screw (on the front wheel), won't come out and the screwdrivers keep slipping out and are beginning to damage it so i stopped (Halfords Professional so i know it's not my tool's fault). I've also tried an impact driver (won't budge it at all despite reasonably hard whacks - i daren't try too much harder because i already mashed my nail open good and proper just a few days ago after missing a wheel bearing with a hammer - too painful a mistake to repeat) and of course, copious amounts of WD40. I've also tried hitting it directly with a hammer hoping to free the thread, and trying to turn it the wrong way to break the seal (neither worked in the slightest).

That's me stuck. Any ideas of what to do next? (bearing in mind this is probably the first time i've had to consider an alternative to the normally effective WD40 + impact driver)

I moved on to the bolt securing the wheel axle, but that won't budge either (despite pushing down really hard on the spanner, and again, considerable amounts of WD40). Am i best to get an extension bar for the extra leverage, or is another method better/safer? (can i even fit an extension bar over a combination spanner - after all it's thicker at the ends?)

I've attached a diagram - it's not my CG but it'll do for demonstrative purposes (1. is the speedo screw, and 2. is the axle bolt thing).

A CG125 front wheel, 1) and 2) as explained above.

[Guest]

undo the cable at the clocks, and leave the cable attached to the wheel.

a socket and long bar will work on your axle, not a spanner.

I use one of these...

has a half inch drive, so need a half inch socket or adapter...

just done fork seals on a 94 CG125, with Jademongoose.

[Guest]

support bike, centre stand and heavy tool box on seat works well

remove reflectors from plastic "honda" (under headlight)

undo bolts retaining plastic "honda"

remove mudguard

remove wheel

place folded towel on tank,

undo handlebars

loosen fork tops, (makes steps easier with forks out)

loosen fork retaining bolts on yolk (big alloy bit..)

twist out folks, whilst pullling down,.

undo fork top, and withdraw spring..

invert (turn upside down) into plastic tub to drain oil..

replace spring and fork top.

insert allen key (long ways) into fork bottom, and using something for leveridge, undo allen bolt.

prise off dust cover

prise out circlip.

withdraw stanction (chrome bit)

we had to hammer a screwdriver down the side of the seal, to bend it to remove it.

.......

more later, got to travel ...

[Ingah]

Thanks for that frankie, i've bought the appropriate tool and took the forks off a couple of weeks back.

Only got round to actually trying to do the seals tonight. Between your instructions and those in the Haynes manual i've got as far as getting the dust cover / circlip off one of the legs, and found out the oil was largely black sediment- and stinks! But can't see to undo the allan bolt at the base of the fork. Tried using it both ways, and using towels (don't have a bar extension) but it seems stuck tight. Annoying to note that my impact driver won't fit into the gap! Might nip back up to my garage (up the hill) at a later date when i've got some more time, to get my shock and unlock spray (seemed to do the trick every time i've needed it thus far).

But cheers, i've made progress and that's what matters

[Guest]

have you rebuilt the fork with the spring and top.. if so replace them into the yolk (steering) and nip them up.. them using an allen key and a spanner, put the allen key through the ring of the spanner and turn until the spanner acts as leveredge... a pipe works better, but sometimes it comes down to what you have at hand...

the spring will act to stop the damper turning as you undo the screw which holds it...

[Ingah]

have you rebuilt the fork with the spring and top.. if so replace them into the yolk (steering) and nip them up.. them using an allen key and a spanner, put the allen key through the ring of the spanner and turn until the spanner acts as leveredge... a pipe works better, but sometimes it comes down to what you have at hand...

the spring will act to stop the damper turning as you undo the screw which holds it...

 

I haven't rebuilt the fork (i assume you mean do the jiggery-pokery inside it to make it new), because i can't open it?

I've probably misunderstood... (and i can't work out how the spanner would work as leverage without slipping).

Is there a way of doing this that doesn't involve (what sounds like a) bodge method? I'm quite happy to buy a tool if it means i don't have this problem again when it comes to doing my CB500's seals too.

[Guest]

slip a length of pipe (open end of a wrench..) onto the small head of the allen key to provide leveridge..

or buy a long (100mm) allen socket

[Guest]

I've probably misunderstood... (and i can't work out how the spanner would work as leverage without slipping).