Guest Posted August 2, 2010 Posted August 2, 2010 Hi folks,I have just started my first restoration project of what appears to be a bit of a rarity these days. The GSXR750R, verified by a main suzuki dealer, I picked up a few days ago, no knowing what I had really got. I was after a cheap 750 that I could do up and ride. Needless to say when I discovered what it was it was a big surprise I have kicked off a blog available here: GSXR750R Rebuild so if you are interested, feel free to add yourself as a follower. The blog will be as much as a reference and diary for myself, aswell as for others. It will get more interesting as time progresses once the engine starts getting stripped. Just waiting the delivery of a battery before stripping further so I can check the electrics and hopefully discover that the engine has reasonable compression. It would be good not to have to get new valve stems or faces.What I have discovered so far after removing the fairings, is the oddity of screws and hex bolts holding them together. Also, it seems that that the indicators screws are ALL missing, just black tape holding the lenses on I cant imagine why!I am sure I will be asking questions here if I really get stuck. Lucky for me though, one of my neighbours has recently restored a Harley and his mate who often visits also restores bikes, so I can always get a little help locally if needed.Enjoy the blog, feel free to leave as many comments as you like. AndreaGSXR750R Quote
Guest Posted August 2, 2010 Posted August 2, 2010 Hi there. I am now following the blog Best of luck to you! Quote
Guest Posted August 2, 2010 Posted August 2, 2010 Andrea, when refitting the caliper pins, drill out the mounting holes wioth the next size up drill bit, the pads and spring clips will hold them in place and make them easier to remove in future, this is due to the alloy and steel reacting, and welding itself together..http://www.themotorbikeforum.co.uk/view ... 77&start=0also CMSNL.com is a good source of exploded diagrams and part numbers, (they are in Holland, but the parts numbers are suzuki OEM)and Wemoto.com for serviceables.. Quote
Guest Posted August 4, 2010 Posted August 4, 2010 andrea, just spotted this on OSS about the NEAS units...http://forum.oldskoolsuzuki.info/cgi-bi ... 1280867640 Quote
Guest Posted August 4, 2010 Posted August 4, 2010 Interesting to what is underneath and the business end I hope mine isnt seized or not working as solenoid valves can be expensive, although simple in design. WEMOTO can supply a non-Haynes manual that covers the limited edition and in retrospect I should possibly have got that one, but Haynes is usually the way to go. Might have to get one depending on differences that I come across and unable to fathom out. Shouldnt be too hard though. I think the hardest thing is finding out where engine mounts are located and tolerances/torque settings.Just had a thunder/lightning and heavy rain... Got caught out doing the last of thw workshop roof Quote
Guest Posted August 25, 2010 Posted August 25, 2010 Compression Testing.I have just tested my engine with a compression tester, almost running the battery flat trying to get some pressure to build up, despite testing the tester, which works fine. I estimate I am getting between 5 - 10 psi on each compression stroke on all pots. I am still wondering what I am missing here. Even when I place my thumb over an adapter I can hardly feel much although there is air coming out. The O rings are just fine and I cannot tighten anything up even more. The plug washers came out with the plugs and the surface around the cylinder head looks clean.I have just updated my blog so there is a fuller story there, but I keep wondering...Any ideas ? Quote
Guest Posted August 25, 2010 Posted August 25, 2010 never done it myself, so no words of wisdom here, but maybe one of the hands on OldSkoolSuzuki can enlighten you...dug this up.. Step by Step explanation on how to do a compression test..Difficulty: EasyInstructions.Things You'll Need: Compression gauge and proper adapter for your car. Spark Plug removal tool Basic tools 1. Before you start, disable the fuel injection and the ignition by removing the respective relays.Connect a battery charger and remove the spark plugs.2. If the throtle plate is mechanical, find a way of keeping it open so unrestricted air can flow trhough the engine.3. Connecting a remote starter is very useful but not necessary and this won't work with most new cars.4. Screw the compression tester into the spark plug hole.5. Crank the engine trough four or five "puffs". The readings should increase with each revolution. Take note of the fifth puff. Before removing the tool remember to release the pressure.6. Repeat the process for each cylinder and take notes.7. Compare them to each other they should all be around the same. If only one of the cylinders is low do a "Wet Test" (next step)8. If there is a weak cylinder(s) you should squirt some oil and repeat the test. If the reading becomes normal with oil in the cylinder that means the oil rings are sticking..Read more: How to Do a Compression Test | eHow.com ehow.com/how_5913286_do-compression-test.html#ixzz0xcZti9dz Quote
Guest Posted December 7, 2010 Posted December 7, 2010 Wow! Didnt realise how long it had been since I last posted. The project went into a bit of a standstill as I have to finish off the workshop, but now I have started in earnest. Not too many problems so far and I finally found the problems with compression.... The stripping continues, but so far so good.http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_01aad7vXozs/TP1Dwze29JI/AAAAAAAAAD8/0Vq-SdfvM0Y/s1600/Img_1557.jpgPlease visit and follow if you dare http://gsxr70r.blogspot.com/Andrea Quote
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