Clutch Slip and Brake Pads

[Ingah]

My CB500 strikes again

Anyone fancy becoming the proud owner of the most often repaired CB500 in history?

(Or selling another CB500 i can use for spares?)

Two things, first (and almost happily as i like the reassurance of choosing/fitting my own bits) the front brake pads need replacing in my opinion (no surprise there though, i've had the bike long enough for this to need doing) and i wondered if anyone could recommend whether i should go for Honda's normal (£17) or sintered (£22) pads (or even 3rd party) - i use the bike all year round - however the disc is *very slightly* warped (as i was told last MOT), and i'm not overly eager to accelerate the wear - in fact, the disc does look pretty thin considering 4mm is it's wear limit... However, on the other hand i like to be able to stop quick on the front (choices choices..), as the rear is a really naff drum.

Secondly (and to my extreme annoyance), the clutch has begun to slip.

So my first thought as money is so tight, is there a safe bodge to fix it for a while? (i'm not likely to take this option no matter what, especially so on a clutch of all things, but as i know nothing on clutches (yet) it's worth asking i suppose).

And more importantly, what am i going to need to fix it (or what i need to inspect to find out what i need to fix it)? Is it likely/certainly just going to need some new friction plates? More than that? - is it possible i'll need a "new clutch" (sounds expensive)?

Cheers for any help btw. I probably owe some of you guys a beer or two by now with all the questions

[Guest]

clutch. have you tried adjusting it.. or is it past that..

Pads, try Wemoto.com.. and HH have a better bite than GG as they are sintered..

might be an idea to scour ebay/breakers for a front disc, check out ebay 120609373014

as you will need one soon, and give the brake piston a clean as its probably sticking which has caused or accelerated the warpage...

might want to consider changing the brake fluid to as old fluid boils and will push the pistons out..

[Ingah]

There is still freeplay at the lever, so i'd simply assumed adjustment would not be necessary. Honda did suggest that i check the cable isn't sticking or rubbing, so i might as well closely check it all out and have a play the next chance i get - before ordering replacement clutch parts (it's up to £110 to replace the gasket, friction plates, "clutch plates" and clutch springs with genuine Honda!)

Cheers for the Wemoto suggestion - the brake pads seem to cost around about what Honda want for theirs (unless i go for those cheap Kyoto GG pads - i suspect i'd regret that though), although i noticed the clutch parts are a fair chunk cheaper on there! (no harm in using the cheaper Kyoto / EBC clutch parts is there?)

I'm slightly wary of getting an unknown disc, as i've heard that the rubbish/cheap ones can crack or otherwise fail

Although the good start price got me so interested that i've enquired

The brake isn't detectibly sticking (i checked very recently by going out on a run without using the front because i was worried it was) - the fluid has been changed (and the resevoir was all cleaned out) less than 12 months ago, when i got stainless Goodridge hoses put on. IIRC the pistons are near the wheel though (and thus weren't cleaned), so it can't do any harm, particularly when i change the pads.

Thanks.

[Guest]

i'm using the kyoto GG on my GSX, and have bought discs 2nd hand from broken bikes,./.

as long as they're listed as ok, and are, then you'll be fine, as the ones i have linked you are originals,

some wavey discs have a bad rap..

[Ingah]

Managed to win the auction for the brake disc you posted, for just £17 (well chuffed at that price), 5mm thickness according to the seller (apparently that's how thick they are to start according to external sources). Honda wanted ~£110 for a new disc!

Next question - how do i undo the brake disc bolts (do i need a special tool / extender, like with the wheel axles?), IIRC the bolts are hex shaped heads, and i've tried to get one or two out for some other reason in the past, and found that they were way too tight to allow my allen key to turn them.

Have also now noticed that my clutch is only halfway adjusted on the engine-side (i.e. there's another half to go ). For some reason i didn't think this was the case, so i guess it highlights the importance of checking!

Is it possible the clutch could still be shot regardless, or is it only ever shot when its totally run out of freeplay?

[Bill_on_a_bike]

You might have done the clutch in running it half out for so long, adjust it, ride it and see.

You can get alan 1/4 inch to hexagonal bit adaptors, so you could put a breaker bar on an alan key bit.

[Guest]

Managed to win the auction for the brake disc you posted, for just £17 (well chuffed at that price), 5mm thickness according to the seller (apparently that's how thick they are to start according to external sources). Honda wanted ~£110 for a new disc!

Next question - how do i undo the brake disc bolts (do i need a special tool / extender, like with the wheel axles?), IIRC the bolts are hex shaped heads, and i've tried to get one or two out for some other reason in the past, and found that they were way too tight to allow my allen key to turn them.

with the wheel fitted, get a allen socket ( halfords do the individually) and udo with the wheel in situ, well at least loosen them, same goes for tightening them... and use locktite..

[Ingah]

Cheers both, will do that.

[Ingah]

You might have done the clutch in running it half out for so long, adjust it, ride it and see.

 

It's still slipping after adjusting it both sides and making sure there's enough freeplay

This assumedly means i've slightly prematurely (there isn't a great deal left on the clutch side now anyway, i suppose) wrecked my clutch. Yay.

How long can a slipping clutch be expected to last? Is it going to fail all of a sudden, or gradually (hopefully slowly) worsen until the bike is unrideablely slow?

Been through Haynes, and it look like i need a load of new tools to do the job: punches/steel rods, block of wood, vernier caliper, "locking" compound, torque thingies (i forgot their name - but they're £50 in Halfords) and "suitable" sealant. As well as a new clutch nut, friction plates, possibly plain plates, clutch springs and gasket. And apparently while it's all open, there's a load of things to inspect too, that may or may not require replacement.

I suppose this is what you get for buying an old, knackered, ex-riding school bike, then trying (and failing) to learn to wheelie on it Lesson learned the hard way

Anyone happen to know what suitable "locking" compound and suitable "sealant" is?

[Guest]

Try SBS sintered street pads, they are a bit pricey, but you will be amazed by the improvement, they also have a good disc wear ratio

[Guest]

Anyone happen to know what suitable "locking" compound and suitable "sealant" is?

pop into Halfords and you should be able to find a Locking compound and some suitable sealant.. just dont go OTT.

[Ingah]

pop into Halfords and you should be able to find a Locking compound and some suitable sealant.. just dont go OTT.

 

Ah, so pretty much "anything" (with the appropriate word on the label) will do then. Cheers

[Ingah]

So i've bought the tools required, dropped the oil (and put it in a container, it's only been in a couple of weeks and done a few hundred miles!), taken the springs (getting close to the service limit but still is life in them - so i'll be replacing them of course) and plate out, and got to the dreaded clutch nut, which has refused outright to come off with mole grips. So off i trotted and got a proper Halfords pro 27mm socket and a 3/8" to 1/2" drive converter so that it fits the thingymabob from my Halfords Pro socket set.

And in typical fashion for my CB, this doesn't work either. I've tried putting the bike in both 1st and 6th gear, and putting my knee down hard on the rear brake. Even tried getting the girlfriend to sit on the bike and press it down hard for me. The manual also says i should unstake the nut with a punch first, so i put pressure down on the ring thing around the nut, and it wouldn't move at all (?). Maybe this doesn't matter? But in the end - no joy, the nut just will not come off.

Anyone know a sure-fire way of it coming off?

I would try heat, but i don't have power in the garage, and my patience with this bike's becoming limited, i need it working!

Edit: Looking for the code for a clutch centre holding tool (07GMB-KT80100) on eBay comes up with nothing strangely enough, and my Honda dealer says they've been discontinued.

[Guest]

you got a close up pic..??