Still refusing to change gear

[Guest]

Hi replaced the chain and sprockets this weekend which wasent a easy task. first of all the rear axel wouldnt come out. it took a lot of hammering to get the axel half way out. once it was half way it it completly jammed up and wasent moving. i eventually managed to get the thing out. the next thing was the rear axel bolts were very tight and took a while to remove. then the new splitlink for the chain took a lot of force to get on. i did eventualy get it finished. i also replaced the gear linkage as that had bent.

ok so a bit wet outside but not soaking so thought id take it out for a test run. the engine wouldnt start. took several attempts of pressing the starter over and over and also having the throttle open a lot. it did eventually fire up but i almost gave up.

got down the road and the flipping thing was refusing to chain gear again. it gets stuck and i try lifting the lever and its not going in. sometimes iv i rev the engine up then quickly change it works but most of the time it takes a few attempts. it doesent do this all the time. most of the time its fine but when it happens its really annoying. it probably happend 10 times when i took it out.

next whilst at 60mph the clutch decided to slip randomly and sent the revs high bouncing of the limiter

this is the bit that got me very angry. going through a village at 30mph in a 30mph zone and some idiot car driver thought it would be clever to sit right up my numberplate. first of all it wasent too bad but then they came very close probably 2 feet away from the back of the bike. at this point i looked in the mirrors and all i could see was the car nothing else. i then started to slow down gradually as i was not comfortable with them sat this close to me. this annoyed the driver who then thought it be wise to try and overtake me whilst going through a bend. sometimes when i go round bends i sit closer to the middle line (shoud stop doing this) at this point the driver attemped a dangerous overtake. got very close to me then all i heard was the sound of horns from cars on the other side of the road. at this point i thought this is dangerous and pulled over. car driver then drove of shouting some abuse as they go by. then i get angry and carry on get to the 60mph zone and catch them up. car wasent doing 60 so went to overtake. indicated and pulled out and car accelerated. i didnt have the power to overtake so had to pull back. the next thing the driver puts the brakes on and then drives along with the brakes dragging. then a few other cars got in front of me and this car. they got ahead. anyway got to the next set of lights which had 2 lanes left to go left right to go right. approached the lights to find the car in the right hand lane. got a bit closer and the car sticks its indicators on left whilst in the right hand lane stopped to try and annoy me. slowly went past them still very angry. i would have stopped but didnt want to cause any more hassle and just carried on.

this has completly shocked me and i now feel very vunrable and am starting to see how dangerous bikes or CARS are on the roads. i am still a bit shaken by this a few hours later.

anyway back to the chain. checked it when i got back and there seem to be bits of road dirt on it. im guessing this is normal. i sprayed some wet type chain lube on yesterday. whilst cleaning the bike i have managed to get bits of kitchen roll stuck to the chain.

if there is oil on chain can water/road dirt cause the chain to rust/seize ? i might put chain cleaner on and relube to chain tomorow. the bike needs washing so its best to wash then oil the chain.

[Guest]

Numbers, read the cahin guide AGAIN!!!

Clean and lube between 400 and 600 miles, it will be fine.

As for the gear changing problem and jumping out of gear, sounds like a gear selector problem, but I am no mechanic, so just a guess.

[Guest]

that sounds expensive

its fine going down the gear box just going up normaly 2nd to 3rd or 3rd to 4th

im surpised the chain doesent need more cleaning and oiling.

the clutch also slipped out once

[Guest]

Could be something simple, get reading!!

[Guest]

i am reading and i cant find anything to do with gearbox selectors going wrong.

i was thinking the clutch was jammimg up or something as it feels like it is.

the clutch slipped above 7.5k revs when i first got it but had the cable adjusted and it stopped. the sliping has retured very occasionly though.

when i am trying to get into gear and i wont let me i open and close the clutch a few times and it sometimes lets me change

[Guest]

ahh, suspect clutch then?

Get reading some more !!!

[Guest]

just looked at the clutch parts for the bike.

what bits do i need to change on the clutch ? there are friction plates and normal plates. does the clutch pressure plate also need replacing if i change the normal plates ?

[Guest]

couldn't tell you Numbers, hopefully someone with more clutch knowledge will be along soon

[Guest]

ok thanks

[eastanglianbiker]

would normally change the friction plates which are the ones with the ear pointing outwards on them to locate in the clutch housing slots

[Guest]

just adjusted the clutch cable to reduce play in the lever and to see if it helps. all its done is move my biting point further to the end of the lever.

i have been told by a member of another forum that it defiantly sounds like a gear selector fork has bent and it costs a lot to fix this

[eastanglianbiker]

if it has bent selector fork then yes you are looking at fairly big bill as engine needs to come out of the bike and the crankcases opend up to change the selectorwould of thought you are looking at 8 hours+ on the labour side of it plus cost of fork and gaskets

[sparkeh9]

In that case, is it economically viable to keep that bike? You might be forced to sell it for someone to fix or break... Unless you can do it yourself and source a second hand one

[Guest]

i can do it myself but i dont know how much the parts are or what parts i need.

i have loads of free time to do it.

this bike is doing my head in its one thing after a another at the moment

[eastanglianbiker]

well if you think you can do it then you will need to either change clutch first see if that cures the problem and if it doesnt then remove engine remove all outer cases around the engine and undo all the bolts to split crank cases in half find the damaged parts and replace them and put it all back together with new gaskets.it is very important that you get the torque settings right on the crank cases as they hold the crankshaft bearing shells and not tight enough will cause engine to knock and destroy itself to tight does same thing

[Guest]

by replace the clutch you mean new friction plates ?

[eastanglianbiker]

yes as you have got to remove that casing to either change the friction plates or strip engine down but clutch is easist thing to try first

[Guest]

hmm yeah but if thats not it that means il have to drain new engine oil again and drain the coolant and it will cost me more.

the clutch hasent been right since day 1 i should have taken the thing back to the shop. i adjusted the cable this morning as there was too much play in the lever. with the lever better the biting point has moved to the end of the lever.

i actually tried getting my foot further under the lever and then it seemed to behave itself so it could just be me but it seems to be happening too regually and if it was me why all of a sudden now

i cant understand why its fine down the gears and in from gears 4th to 5th and 5th to 6th. 1st to 2nd is fine although i did notice it do this once 2 weeks ago probably from 5th to 6th maybe

i hope its the clutch to be honest as that will cost about £35 for 5 new plates and £10 for new engine oil. i already have a right hand engine gasket.