Schott Perfecto Motorcycle Jacket Review

Admin · November 2, 2022

The Schott Perfecto 613 was designed in the late 1940s and has not changed since. (John Hebert/)

Imagine being able to walk into a motorcycle dealership and buy your favorite vintage bike, just as it sat on the showroom floor the year it was released. Let’s say it’s a mid-’50s Harley-Davidson K model, predecessor to the Sportster, just like Johnny Depp rode in Cry-Baby. Unfortunately, there’s no dream factory to make our vintage bike dreams come true. But one piece of motorcycle gear still exists as just this type of time capsule.

The Schott Perfecto leather jacket has been an icon since the 1950s. It stands for rebellion and rock ‘n’ roll. The exact jacket worn by Marlon Brando and the Ramones is still made today, and has been for over seven decades. But legit status and undeniable style aside, the question must be asked: How good is it on a motorcycle?

Gussets on the back of the Perfecto help the jacket move with you as you reach for the handlebars. (John Hebert/)

The Schott brothers founded their company in 1913, and in 1928 were the first to put a zipper on a jacket. That first zippered asymmetrical jacket, considered by many to be the first dedicated motorcycle jacket, was sold at Harley-Davidson dealerships in New York City for $5.50. Irving Schott named this piece the Perfecto after his favorite cigar. Now, 110 years later, Schott NYC is owned by the third and fourth generations of the Schott family, and Perfecto jackets are still made in the New York City area using traditional techniques.

Visit any Schott store and you’ll find a handful of Perfecto styles. The 613, also known as the One Star, was introduced in the late ‘40s; shortly after, in 1953, it was worn by Marlon Brando in The Wild One. That original 613 design remains unchanged today. The 618 was introduced a few years later as the same 613 pattern without stars on the epaulets, then updated in the 1990s to include vents in the armpits and snaps for a fur collar. Both 613 and 618 styles are available in different types of leather with different treatments and different fits, so no matter if you’re built like a barrel or a light post, there’s a Perfecto just for you.

When fully zipped, the Perfecto seals around the rider’s neck. (John Hebert/)
The 5.5-ounce quilted nylon poly insulated lining inside the Schott 613SH. (John Hebert/)

Last February I walked into the Schott Bros. store on LA’s South La Brea Avenue. I’d grown up with a poster from The Wild One on my wall, Johnny on his Triumph with the trophy tied to his handlebars. I wanted that Brando jacket, so I walked out with the 613SH; the “SH” stands for “Slim Horse,” as this jacket is cut to a slightly slimmer fit and constructed of horsehide leather, just like the original.

“It’ll start looking really nice in about six months, and in a few years, it will be proper broken in,” the salesman said. I stashed the jacket from my ride in and wore my new Perfecto home.

The salesman was right. The horsehide used on these jackets is thick, taking a while to break in. For the first two months, my Perfecto was so shiny and new that someone at the Long Beach Motorcycle flea market asked if it was vinyl. The audacity! But sure enough, about six months into ownership the leather softened up, creases formed in the elbows, and the jacket started to really feel like it was mine. Pockets have been assigned: phone here, wallet here, keys here. I even clipped a small keychain to the main No. 10 zipper pull, though I’m not ready to put a pin in the lapel and pierce the leather just yet. It’s still precious.

Gales wearing the Schott 613SH on Arch Motorcycle’s new 1s. (John Hebert/)

The Perfecto is an asymmetrical design with a layer of leather under the zipper to keep out wind. It’s designed to be worn two ways: partially zipped with lapels showing, as it is most often seen, and fully zipped with lapels tucked for maximum wind protection. There are three zippered pockets on the outside plus one flap pocket, usually called the key pocket or cigarette pocket, that closes with a snap. A single breast pocket inside is perfect for a long wallet or cellphone. A belt around the bottom offers a last bit of fit adjustment.

I’ve been surprised by Perfecto’s adaptability to weather conditions. Horse leather has a tighter grain structure than cow, so while not completely waterproof, it sheds water much better than traditional leather. A quilted liner throughout the jacket is comfortable and warm, but not too warm, and if necessary I can easily fit a thick sweater underneath. The slim fit and adjustable belt mean that no air is getting in once it’s sealed off. In summer I unzip the cuffs and leave the jacket in cool-guy mode—don’t pretend you don’t know what I mean—and it vents well enough for all but the hottest days. I wear it with a T-shirt, flannel, hoodie, or more technical insulating layer depending on the conditions.

The 613SH is made of horsehide, but steerhide versions are also available. (John Hebert/)

Right now there are more than 20 variations of the asymmetrical Perfecto on schottnyc.com. With that many jackets based off of the same pattern almost anyone can get close to a custom fit off the rack, and fit is critical in motorcycle gear. A jacket that fits right won’t let wind in through the sleeves or at the waist, and it won’t ride up your back if you’re sliding after a crash. Aside from its tough leather construction, it’s this ability to get a perfect fit that makes the Perfecto such a great motorcycle jacket.

There is no padding or impact protection on the Perfecto. Abrasion resistance comes in the form of durable horsehide, but you’ll find no Kevlar or Dyneema. This is the peak of 1950s motorcycle gear, in 2022 it carries no CE rating. I admit that on relaxed rides, I often wear the jacket without additional protection. But when things speed up, my Stellar Atmosphere armored shirt fits underneath comfortably and adds a full set of armor: elbows, shoulders, back, and chest. The Perfecto’s thick horsehide obscures the pads and sort of just makes me look buff, though if you’re a gym-going person and plan to wear armor underneath your jacket, consider this at the time of purchase; you may need to size up.

Like any piece of clothing, much of the purchase is about personal style. If you’re after the cheapest tool to do the job effectively and don’t care about looks, this is not the piece for you. But if you like the side-zip style, the Perfecto is the original, and in this world authenticity goes a long way. Lighter steerhide versions of the 613 and 618 feel more fashion-focused and less protective, but horsehide is substantial and tough. Just remember, the difference between a real Perfecto and another side-zip can be the difference between rock ‘n’ roll or highway patrol.

Morgan is 6-foot-4 and wears a size 42 in the Schott 613SH. (John Hebert/)