bbobeckyj

Why all the hassle of the vox and wind/background noise? why do people not use a throat mike?

ride mag just reviewed them all R&G came out best & for only £40! the mag is still on sale so take a look

There was a big hole once I pulled the stone out. As it's new it has Hoondacare assistance, so AA came & did a temporary repair for me. I'm only changing the rear tyre, can't afford both this month but thanks I did wonder about mixing brands. I don't ride hard, no big lean angles etc, this tyre has lasted 4900miles (pilot road 1) & it now has a flat band where I've been upright all the time on it. So how will it affect the bike? Handling etc?

I have a buff and several oxford comfies. I bought the buff first and then got the others afterwards because they're cheaper, for washing/spares/girlfriend etc, and they often come free with anything you buy from oxford. When handling it to comparethen just now, the buff seems to be softer and maybe thicker. It's hard to describe but almost like the difference between some thin soft cotton (buff) and very thin denim (comfy). They are the same size, buff is reversable, comfy has print/pattern on one side only. I don't notice a difference bewteen them when I wear them, but I always wear a balaclava, so the tube is just for extra draft exclusion/warmth around the neck. Either that or I would have to wear two, one on the head and one around the neck. Try eBay, there's a lot of them unbranded and cheap, plenty of dpm/camo.

Yeah that's the plan, & I emailed them straight after it happened. As the warranty is with Honda I can take it to any Honda dealer & don't have to go 300miles to them. I was wondering what people thought could be the problem or cause. I'll find out at Honda anyway, but getting the tyre sorted will take me a couple days & then booking it in to get the speedo checked may be over a week away, I'm just too curious and want to know things asap. Also if they can't find a problem the dealer charge for the work as there is not problem to be covered by the warranty, so I want to avoid that if possible.

oops, sorry, thought I did that. it is a 2008 Honda CBF600N

Hi all, Last night when I was out for a ride my speedo started to go all wobbly. It was bouncing between actual speed and lower speeds, and at one point went all the way down to zero while I was riding at around 60. It was dropping like the rev counter would do if you pulled the clutch in and released you right hand and then got back on it again, it would drop low then bounce back up again. It only lasted for a couple of minutes and then returned to normal. It was then normal for another 30-ish minutes until I got home. During the last 1/2 mile home, 10-20mph low speed corners, through residential areas I noticed that the steering felt odd. When I parked up I found the rear tyre was soft. I picked a small stone out of the tread to reveal a not so nice hissing sound and a very soft tyre. Is it possible that the two occurances are related? Not that I can imagine how. Or what could be the cause of the speedo? It will be my first new tyre since I bought it, and as it was due for a new tyre anyway, I already have shortlisted a couple I would like to try. I had Michelin pilot roads, I'm considering either avon storm st or pirelli diablo strada next or possibly pilot road 2, based on recommendations and rider power results, and price. I would be gratefull for any comments on these. I'm probably going to get the tyre changed locally less than a mile away, how could I make it safe enough to get there? If the speedo is still a problem I'll be going to the dealership miles away and later, as it's still under warranty. Many thanks in advance, B

If your thinking of the same one as me, it was bike. They had two bike paramedics test them during work. But it didn't have a score system just a description of the good & bad of each plug by the reviewers. As far as I could tell the ones I use and posted earlier in this thread came out near if not top. They didn't test any custom moulded ones though.

http://www.aearo.com/e-a-r.com/roll_det ... 16-1111001 and they're washable, just stick 'em in the washing machine.

I use overtrousers also, and now non waterproof leather trousers, the textiles were not doing their job so I got rid of 'em

I have the same situation as you, same bike even. I go with a 45litre topbox which takes gloves and helmets. Everything else we just wear, so then you need to chose your gear carefully if you're concerned about looking like a powerranger/ymca singer in the cinema. I have all black leathers, if you get a plain-ish looking jacket, it could almost be any type of leather jacket. Also consider costs can you afford different kit for when you're riding & why & weather (I can't), but draggin type jeans only work in the summer and less so at night (cinema exit time) due to temp. BTW my local cinema won't allow us to take the helmets into the screening. A bonus as you don't have to carry it with you / A negative cause I don't trust them with it.

Sure the pump wasnt just ripping you off. I've heard that they are off by a small amount but never in the customers favor... I've ran my bike dry a good couple of times. The RS did 150 miles on its main 2 gallon tank. 75 isnt bad for a 125 but that was keeping the revs low. If you thrash it it will drop to about 55. I wish bikes were as fuel efficient as the honda cg, 100mpg at low revs 99mpg when you thrash it. Yeah I'm sure the pump was fine - I work for the company, and have access to the engineers reports, trading standards, and weights and measures, who all routinely test the accuracy of the dispensers. After any significant work is carried out on a pump, it cannot be put to use without trading standards verifying the accuracy. So anyway the pumps are correct, it's the specified tank capacity which is not.

I use the same method to guestimate mpg, but, manufacturers lie! I recently put 37litres of fuel in a car with a 35litre tank.

Yep, I do that (I need to add more detail to the first post) I have two gore tex jackets both a sporty-ish style (low collar etc) so they let water in around the edges easily if the rain throws down hard. But for short trips or light rain they're good. The problem with over coats is sizing - nice and big for the sleeve length and they catch the wind too much and it feels like wearing a parachute, then the sleeves get pulled up anyway, or, snug fit, harder to get on and short sleeves don't reach the gloves

I searched all gloves on eBay Normally I search for brands and ones I know to be good (from Ride reviews etc) but it's hard to find stuff you know will fit. A lot of branded stuff is more expensive online, than for example Hein Gericke sells it. I'm thinking I need to save for the 365 GTXs and get em big enough for under gloves to fit.

I'm not sure I would trust an unproven, low price, unbranded glove like that in a fall

reminds me of my grandfather's farm when i was small

Thanks, I had seen those and tried them on instore, that's the sort of length I'm looking for. High cost and low insulation are preventing me from buying at the moment. I'm also looking at the jet road ones, but they don't fit my jacket well and they're difficult to find at a good price. And as the title says, I want some advice from others before I buy anything. I do have two long sleeved jackets, both the longest sleeved jackets I've tried on which are waterproof. I don't want to spend £300 on another jacket just for it being waterproof and longer sleeved but with less protection. Also gloves are easier to take two pairs incase it rains to swap around, and cheaper to 'fix'.

My wording was wrong. I do put my gloves under the sleeves, but most gloves are still not long enough and the sleeves don't overlap far enough and usually the gloves come out from under the sleeve leaving a gap. When it's dry and sunny - no problem, it helps keep me cool, when it's cold and wet - I get cold and wet.

Hi all. I would like some advice for winter gloves with extra long cuff please. I'm 6'3" and all the gloves I try on don't overlap the jacket sleeve properly, so I get wet arms and hands when it rains. Does anyone have a similar problem and what did you do or buy? or does anyone have suggestions? EDIT: I wear the gloves under the jacket sleeve but they still separate and leave a gap due to my long arms. My jackets are both longer sleeved than any other I have tried on. Waterproof over jackets don't work either because of sizing - nice and big for the sleeve length and they catch the wind too much and it feels like wearing a parachute, then the sleeves get pulled up anyway, or, snug fit, harder to get on and short sleeves don't reach the gloves. I would like something like the length of these Alpinestars 365 GXT but hopefully cheaper and better cold protection. Maybe handle bar muffs for the cold would make the above gloves workable, but the cost then gets higher, and yet another accessory to hide in the home from the girlfriend who already complains I spend too much money on my bike and leave my kit all over the place Thanks for any advice or recommendations and to those who have already replied

I don't like the sprays, but the wiper is very good

"backchat" no batteries £40 crystal clear sound google it for more info, and buy on ebay

The sharp test tests for imapacts at a point on or just above the ear. Which is where all arais have their visor cover bit which would come off fairly easy when hit, and then the visor would come off easily exposing half your face, which makes them lose a lot of points in the test. However how much money and experience do you think arai have to test helmets vs the government testing, and do you think that they would make helmets with a supposed design flaw such as that? And how likely is it that your ear would ever hit the ground (your shoulder would 'guard' it). And the test allows for manufacturers to reinforce to test point but leave the rest of the helmet weaker, or as no doubt many do also, keep the proven impact points strongest and leave the parts which rarely get impact minimal to improve comfort/noise levels etc. How many crashed helemts (or pics of them) have you seen? Where is the damage normally? All I've seen are on the areas front, back or around the top but not quite on it, sort of like a wide badger stripe with a bald patch (hard to describe). And how much better is a 5star than a 1star? would a 1star let you die at 50mph and a 2star save you? It all seems meaningless to me. Unless you are unlucky enough to slide or ride into a car or brick wall, most crashes would be- fall off bike (4 to 5 feet), bounce/roll a few times, slide a little (and if you're still alive or consious you may be propped up on your hands a bit here so the helmet has done its job already), then stop. So the major points for helmet construction are - Impact resistance: how much does the helmet take the force before your skull takes the rest of it, and, will it stay in together while you slide and after it's been hit. ie, it grinds along the ground not your face. I don't trust that the government has the resources or knowledge or experience to compete with the makers in testing.