Rik398

I have had many fun and games with generators. Basically, if you have replaced the rectifier, and the battery is still bad, then it is battery or generator. It really is a 3 part system on sports bikes. Obviously, the wiring between them could also be the issue. As for the generator, on your bike it is more than likely just the stator that needs to be replaced. You have two options, you can buy a non genuine one (which will be fine) or send your one off to get re-wound. This will be about £80 quid. Here is an example of a stator you can buy... about £50. It is from the states (and not sure of year of your bike) but I have got them from the states before and its not too much of a hassle: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STATOR-Fits-H ... 3f2b748003 I have also used these guys before when dealing with my Daytona, you may find something on here?: http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog ... rs_32.html Essentially, when testing the potentially dead one, you are checking that resistance between each of the 3 wires is similar, and that there are no shorts. Another way of telling, which is slightly easier if you higly suspect it anyway, it just to take it out. If its black and charred, you have your answer.

Just a quick one. So, the bike is in for its MOT Morrow. Its gone in at the earliest possible time to preserve the MOT exp date. If it were to fail its MOT, am I allowed to ride it home due to it still being covered by the old MOT for another couple of weeks? That way, I can still get home, not have to leave it at a garage over easter weekend, and have enough time to fix it up. Or does it have to stay there? Thanks folks.

Thanks for the advice folks. I am generally hoping its not clutch. Since noticing it I try an initiate a slip. Its actually quite hard to bring a slip on, generally involves revving way beyond where I normally do up the steep Holden hill on the a38. Other than that its fine, so sounds like cable or oil, doesn't seem bad enough to be a dying clutch. Ordered up a clutch cable for this weekend, and will fit that and re-adjust. See what happens. I will also do an oil change, as I have some left over. Thanks again

Can you generally get away with not changing the plain plates? Obviously won't know until I open it up, but only form of transport so don't want to risk over spending. General rule of thumb? Thanks for the help folks.

Ok, so there is a small amount of clutch slip, around 9-11k rpm, and only when really hammering it. So, two questions. Is it generally just a case of friction plates and springs... would you have to be fairly unlucky to replace the other stuff? And second, is it something that I can leave for a bit (not an issue under normal driving) and come back to, or is it best to get in there immediately? Like I say, have to push it quite hard to notice. Thanks folks.

So I checked the lever and not sticking anywhere, double checked the cable and all was well I did notice today that it does seem to be more on my way home, which generally points to my leg as the issue. Think I am going to change the position of the lever and swap the oil at the weekend. I am convinced that it is something small if it is the bike, just feels that way. Thinking that maybe I didn't notice it before due to the novelty of being back on the bike, so will keep monitoring for now. Thanks folks.

Tension is ok, I generally keep on top of it and clean/lube/adjust if necessary every weekend. Just been looking at my leg and my left foot does not lift as high as my right, so perhaps I need to adjust the lever down and I am not noticing my leg getting tired. Probably will fit a new cable, right on the edge of needing a new one anyway and not too pricey. could be cable is nackered and junked up despite being just within spec? Haven't touched it for 3 years.

It's a case of, 1st to 2nd is fine, other than that it takes a fair amount of effort to actually move the lever in order for a change to actually happen. I have to hook my toe under and pull with my leg, rather thank a light click up of the toe. Could be a case of cleaning and lubricating the actual linkages. Probably go ahead and change the cable, clean everything up and swap oil out at the weekend, should be enough to improve things. But yeah just seems strange to me. Clutch is fine in adjustment, but the actual change is quite hard work, and I feel has worsened.

recently, my bandit has been kind of hard to change gears. now... this could all be down to me only being 3 weeks out of a cast after breaking my leg. However, i have been riding it since day 1 out of cast, and I am fairly sure it is getting more difficult to change gear. so, the clutch cable is within tolerance and adjusted properly. Having said this, it is right on the edge, any more adjustment will definately result in a new cable. when clutch is in, it is definitely in. No creeping forwards with clutch engaged. oil is old, but i have had older without any gearbox issues. About 3k miles so due soon. Level is right between high and low, so could be topped up, but is bang in the middle. Any thoughts?

Well...no biker looks good in deep winter, so I think I may have to give them a go. Going to head to a couple of shops and see what they have. Probably either muffs or cheap grips, need something by Monday, then hunt a good deal for next time

Saw them as well... they generally good enough on their own? I have hand- guards which mean with heated grips I am fine, but muffs would kill the wind completely so should work ok all on thier own?

Hmm... interesting price too.

This was my thinking... probably doesn't hurt to have more than one pair of gloves. And nothing to break as such so seems like a good option. Just have to find somewhere reasonably local that has a load of decent stock to select from. Probably will just end up grabbing some heated grips for now, and then look to proper decent gloves later on. When they work, they work well.

Yeah I had come across heated gloves, and it seems that some come with a lifetime warranty on heating elements which would obviously be good. Not many big bike places around here though, and for that price I would probably want to see them. I will check out the gloves in the link. I have heard good things about 'Held Freezer' gloves. Seem to get decent reviews.

Ok folks, So my heated grips have busted again. Second set over 2 winters. I am fairly reluctant to buy a new pair just for them to break again. I am thinking that they are used 2 hours a day, every day, and the bike lives outside so maybe they just don't last that long for me. So, I am thinking that maybe some fairy top of the range winter gloves would be a more sensible investment. The ones that I have are ok, but still get numb pain by the end of my hour long trip to work. Any gloves that are good enough to remove the need for heated grips? Or should I just buy another pair and be prepared to buy yet another pair next winter?

Ha ha ha... Goat Simulator... the chances of me finding that, let alone seeing someone else that found it are so remote! I got that for my sister as a dummy present. She has real goats so yeah. I also got 9 month old oliver his first bike... rocking police bike with sirens and engine noise, loves it I got a new suit for the new job Sister got me a pocket watch... not sure where she got that idea, but used it over crimbo and used to it now. makes getting bike jacket on / off easier Chocolate and beer made up the rest

I can unfortunately see a car on the horizon soon. Not looking forward to it, but yeah, it has its obvious perks. Good choice to get it done now as well, insurance will only go down once the no claims happen. I am still looking at around 700 for a crap-box, having never had a car before. At 23, its reasonably expensive. Should of just got one sooner, so yeah, good call

I just keep a waterproof bag under the seat, and then stick backpack in the waterproof bag tied down to back seat. Waterproof, and no weight on back etc. Bit of a pain taking it in and out of the waterproof bag, but small price to pay when your carrying a laptop around and stuff getting wet would be an issue. Had a top box on a few bikes, was good, but I always tended to put too much stuff in it, so I have panniers now. More or less sorted my storage issues.

Got a performance and reporting analyst job locally. Which I am very happy with as there is not much of that kind of thing going in my area so all good

Had a chat with consultant. Broken both sides, but on one of the sides it is a small fracture, so no pins luckily, as they got lucky when the cast was put on and it is sitting in a decent position. Having cast off on new years eve. Allowed to put small weight on it, so trying that as much as possible without over-doing it. Got a job... and am going to accept it. had interview day after the break. May get some motocross boots or something, should be on the bike again soon, can stand on both feet now, but not walk obviously. So yeah, not too bad. He said it was healing really fast. Going to be 5 weeks in cast for double break, could have been much worse. Also means I will be out of cast before start date of new job, which is a bonus

And yeah... looks nasty. problem is it just doesn't hurt that much so I almost forget about it and then realise that it is actually fairly bad news. I find out about needing plates next week.

Mostly office jobs. Analyst positions really. Had an interview with Triumph as a business analyst and though I didn't get it, likes the sound of what it was all about so yeah. Having a gander lol. Hopefully not 3 months! Bandit will have corroded to nothing being stood still in the winter for that long :/. May need to get some acf50 going.

Not on the bike. Literally the slightest slip down the stairs, but was holding my son and so couldn't let him fall. Focussed on that rather than grabbing banister and yeah... broken in 2 places. in a cast at the moment and may need plates depending on X ray results in a weeks time. First, I know recovery time is very dependant on person etc etc, but does anyone have any experience of how long it will realistically be before I can get back on the bike? (left leg, so the gear one ) Second, I am sort of in the job hunting game to get a feel of what else is out there other than teaching. Had to go to one the day after the break as it was previously arranged. Think they are after someone quickly so busted leg is probably a disadvantage for me. Though they seemed impressed that I came in lol. Do you think there is no point still trying to get interviews while it's broken? Or just keep going? Not really sure what people would think, either think I am keen and determined, or just be practical and wonder why they should hire the guy with the broken leg over a currently able person. It is all office work mind... So yeah just a few opinions would be helpful.

Yeah I would recommend doing servicing yourself. Many reasons for this, 1) You know for sure what has been done, and what problems may crop up next time you do a service. You know the conidition of your bike much better, and you know nothing has been fudged 2) You actually learn something new each time (to begin with at least) 3) Many times, it is cheaper than a garage even when you buy the tools, and once you have a collection of tools built up, then you are laughing 4) Most the regular stuff is a really, really easy. Depending on the bike, a non major service will often just consist of oil change, check the plugs and air filter. Could cost you as little as 30 quid You start of small and build confidence. Once you have changed the brake pads a few times, it wont be too long before stripping and rebuilding a caliper seems easy. With you tube and a Haynes manual, the regular service things on the bike (oil change and filters and stuff) is easily doable. I can't tell you exactly how much money I have saved, but it is most definitely hundreds rather than tens. And on top of that, I don't have to risk leaving it with a garage and it being stuck there for days on end while they 'get round to it' I ALWAYS use the garage for tyre changes though. Most likely not worth doing yourself and got to keep them in business some how. I also try and buy parts from a garage if I can, a lot of the time they are not that expensive.

If anyone has a windows 8 nokia then there 'here drive' app is excellent. Seems to work offline and has not got me lost yet. Its good enough and gives speech warnings in early enough time that I use it with the phone in my pocket (can't see screen) and still no issues.