Rik398

found the documents. It says something about a 4 digit pin. Problem is I am not sure what that pin is. It also says that the system is supplied without a pin, doesnt sat what happend if a pin is not set up though lol.

cheers for the replies. Well the bikes documents are fairly thin on the ground. I will have a look though because that would be awesome. If i drained the bikes battery, and therefore the alarms on board battery, surley when I charge the bikes battery and start driving it again, the bike will then start charging the datatool battery again? I can get under the seat, just not the passenger seat. thanks again

Ok folks, so i have a datatool alarm on my bike, Obviously when I first got the bike it was supplied with 2 sets of keys and 2 remotes for the alarm. Through my own stupidity I have managed to loose both remotes, and so now the bike is stranded because i cant turn my alarm off to start the bike. Its annoying because I have the keys and everything just not the remote to disable the alarm so I can ride the bike. Is there any particular way of removing the alarm without having the remote? I have found some info elsewhere and it seems it can be done but the alarm needs to be put on service mode first? any help would be much appreciated as now i cant get the girlfriend to work and the company are less than caring about these issues. Oh and to make matters worse I cant get under the seat because of having to replace my locks after the dealer broke the key in them. They obviously replaced the ignition key but the original key to remove the seat is broken. Cheers folks. I know its a challenging one

I have this bike and had this problem also. Problem is with mine they just started working again before i could look at them. Does it make a noise when you turn the indicator on or is there just nothing at all?

Thanks. Good looking stuff. I will have a look for some that go into the frame or something. The ones on the bike now were on it when i got it and to be honest dont look like they have saved too much although to be fair was side swiped by a car lol. I think i will just take them off for now. as for the holes already in the fairing i think i shall just try and fill them with something. There is a crack along the fairing so i think i am just going to try a soldering iron technique i saw on the internet, and as for paining over luckily it is where the decals go on the race replica version of the bike so i will just pain it black (cant go tooo wrong there.... hopefuly) and put the vinlys on. Just the ones that are on the race replica anyway rather than anything silly. Cheers.

Hi. I had a crash on my bike last year and have been slowly doing it back up to how it was. Triumph Daytona 600, 2004. So far I got the union jack nosecone to replace the broken one from the crash, and got a new footpeg and hanger for 10 pounds. Going to spray them so that they match in colour again. Olnly problem that remains is the fact that the crash bungs were pushed back and cracked the lower lhs fairing. I managed to streighten out the bar that the bungs fit too, but the bungs themselves are scraped up. I have been looking into getting new bungs but am not quite sure how crash bungs work. Sounds stupid i know but do i have to buy bungs that are specific to the subframe that they bolt to, or are the bungs themselves fairly universal. I would rather buy just new bungs becuase the holes in the fairing are already made for them so I dont want to get a new frame that might put them in a different place. Just need new bungs. I know i will have to replace the lot sooner or late but not at the moment. Basic question is are bungs universal or do certain differing manufacturers use different connectors? Thanks

Cheers. I think the main issue is that it could be many things, maybe something fairly simple or something more severe. Also the fact that sometimes it does it and other times its fine. I took it to the garage just down the road and he said he would take a look but if its not something obvious then it may be better to take it to triumph. As a result I have booked it in at the nearest triumph dealer streight away, otherwise i might end up paying two people to try and fix it rather than one. Thanks for the help though folks, it seems with electrics it can be tricky. cheers.

Awesome stuff lol. Yeh could be regulator. Hope not though. It is kept in the drive and was through the ice and snow and stuff so could it be a dodgey wire somewhere? not too sure on the good old electrics.

Hi Folks. Basically I have been doing alot of my own work on the bike recently such as brakes and oil changes to save some cash due to being a student and also it is quite good fun. Anyway, although I fairly confident with what I would call mechanical tasks, I am not so good with electrical problems. The other day the bike just cut out soon after starting. By this I mean engine shut of and the ignition does not seem to turn any aspect of the bike on, no lights no dials nothing. Although annoyingly the alarm still works i assume it is on a different circuit? I had a look at the fuse (mini blade fuses, not sure if this is the same with all bikes) and the 30 amp fuse which the digram has a picture of a key next to (I assume ignition from the pic) had blown. Now the bike is an 04 model daytona 600 and had spare 30 amp fuse so i stuck it in. After driving around a bit it was fine then the next day soon after starting the bike died again. I assumed that this was because the spare fuse supplied may have been there a while and so deteriated causing the fuse to blow too soon (perhaps should have used differnt words there ) So i got a new fuse and the same problem again, although this time it blew just as i was pulling into a parking space, so not just after starting this time. So obviously it is not the fuse deteriation that is a problem. Any ideas what would be cuasing an ignition fuse to blow so regularly, obvioulsy there is a problem that needs fixed here. Thanks

Triumph daytona 600 2004. Well getting my dads meters on it tonight, taking battery out and charging it, fuses like you said, and make sure there is no wire exposure check earth etc then get the meters back on it. If there is still a problem then I shall give in and take it to a garage lol. All working fine at the moment starting fine light all good running fine so its not urgent as yet so I can just about afford to take my time trying to find the potential problem. Thanks for the help. I shall put the earth on my checklist

Was at tesco the other day and bike wouldn't start the gauges and everything. For a while making some kind of really fast ricking sound but not actually do anything. Tesco said they had a free rac recovery service and the guy put his volt meter over various parts of the bike and he said that the readings weren't constant and were rising and dropping all over the place. He boost started it then I drove it back to my house. He said don't turn it off because it won't swith back on again but it did and I haven't had a problem since. Should I worry at all or just keep seeing what happens? Does it need checked out or just keep driving it and not worry too much??? Cheers folks

cheers for your replies folks. basically i will not take my bike every time so it does not necerserily have to be bike specific. i shall look up those back packs. my laptop case claims to be waterproof. its like a glasses case made of plastic etc but laptop size lol. i think a rucksack may be an option as it wont be too heavy so its not really a balancing or controll issue. to be honest even a shoulder bag should be fine. but yeah it is a psychology course so no real equipment needed other than laptop bag paper and pen tbh. top box is not really an option due to the fact that i dont fancy having a rack on the bike. simply just a slightly pathetic asthetics issue. i think rucksack is an option. i shall look into it cheers

Hey folks. Off to uni soon and have all the stuff i need. i am looking for a bag though. Now a lot of the time i will take the train like in winter for instance but most of the time i will be doing the commute on my bike. i need a bag that can accomadate a small laptop (which has its seperate case for protection so no real need for computer specific bags) and a4 note pad, pens, and maybe a book or two. It needs to be a bag rather than top box, so that when i get there i can just take it off and go. Magnetic tank bags are out of the question as i have a daytona 600 which wither has an aluminuim tank or fiber glass, not sure but not magnetic anyway. I was looking down the tank bag road though if there are types that are not magnetic but remain easily removable. Size wise not sure if it would get in the way yet. other option is a tail bag. do they just strap to the rear pillion seat or is it a little more complex than that. main thing really is that it is succure on the bike but can be easily removed and used as a normal bag or shoulder bag or whatever for the times i take the train or am just walking around the place. any ideas? cheers folks

hey folks basically got majourly under paid so despute is kicking off there lol. anyway going back to fixing it. i can post a pic tommorow as the gf is coming round and has a fairly decent camera on her phone unlike me lol. so not sure if i can do that clip thing yet anyway i was looking on the net and found a welding rod thing called durafix. anyone know of this stuff and where i can get hold of it? trying to avoid purchase on the net due to lack of card but will do if i can't get it from a general shop. cheers

friad not although thanks for the look. actually managed to get a job where they would take me for just a couple of weeks before uni starts so i think i will use some of the cash from that for a new original part for the fairing bracket, and then use the change on some decals to cover the crack in the side fairing that i streigtend out which looks fine now just a hairline crack so red bull sticker over that i think... lol

so high tempreture engine paint? as for polishing i dont mind having them both silver colour, its just how would i polish the black one from black back to silver? cheers folks

ok folks so basically had a crash the other week and am only tpft insurance so couldn't really wait around for them to make a decission so decided to fix it myself with parts off ebay etc. now the rear passenger footpeg and hanger snapped off so i got a new one off ebay. problem is now one is black and the other is polished or silver or something. i was thinking of re spraying both of the hangers black, and as for pegs i have new blue ones on order atm to match the new nose cone. I will try and post pictures of the fitting of that in a seperate thing. Mainly becuase if anyone has a triumph daytona 600 i found the union jack nosecone in all colours i.e red yellow and silver on the net for around 160 quid including delivery whereas the garage wanted 450 for a plain silver one. and it is genuine stuff so good deal i think. my main question is obviously im going to spray it myself using cans, unless someone can put me off the idea? anyone re sprayed aluminium parts diy style? results?

cant do a pic at the mo everythiing seems to be breaking at the same time at the moment including the camera lol. basically its a piece of alluminium, not sure what tipe, with holes drilled in it that bolts to the frame. the part where it has snapped is around these holes, so basically during the accident it has had an impact and the pre drilled holes in the alloy have got snaps along them, so they are not holes any more just half moon shapes. I still have both half moon shapes that would make up the hole, just they are not together any more that is about the best description i can do. sorry about the lack of pictures

hey folks. Had an accident on my bike a while back. Got everything sorted now just needed new footpegs and nosecone really. crash bungs saved the fairing. Got the nosecone of the internet and fitted myself, daytona 600 so i treted myself to the union jack design whereas before i had plain silver. looks really good. Anyway, after the crash i gave it to the garage for an estimate of repairs and they missed out something failry important being the cockpit subframe. not sure if all bikes have these, but its a piece of metal coming off the front of the frame whcih holds the lights up... anyways i will add a picture a little later on. It has snapped around the bolt eyelets. Which makes me think i have a variety of options. I was thinking i could glue the eyelet and then actually glue an extra washer over the eyelet to add a bit of rigidity. Or, i could buy a new one but they are about 160 quid so rather not, or i could weld it. welding may be an issue becuase its aluminium.... anyone have any experiance? I am thinking try the glue technique until i can get it welded by someone. What glue is best / is glueing even a valid option. cheers folks. and what i mean by eyelet is the hole the bolt goes through. sort of cracked in half. dont know if eyelet is the right term but it makes sense in my head now hopefully yours aswell lol. thanks

Thank you folks, especially your pm 2fast2soon oil change is completed now. Only slight concern is the new filter i chose is slightly longer than my older one but it is apranatley for my bike and fits the threads with no leaks nicley so all is well. Used Castrol power racing 4t fully synthetic (it is bike specific) and no clutch issues to worry about so all seems well. think the old filter was on far too tight or has never been removed before though as it was a pain to get off but all done and well now thort i had better do it as it was over due and i go to full power as of TODAY

still at college so couldn really affor a brand new / 2009 daytona 675 im afraid. So i am on the 2004 600 model. I much appreciate your help and the efoort you have put in though. thanks

ok folks. i know the oil i need to use and know which filter to use, and i know where the drain plug etc is so im not worried about doing the job. but there are a few problems. many bikes as many people will know have a little see through bit which shows what evel your oil is at. mine doesn't have this and only has a dip stick with threads. Unfortnatley i have lost its manual, so dont know how much oil i need to be putting in. So i assume its a case of check the dip stick, yeah that is all fine and awesome etc etc, but it gets complicated. Do i have to stand the bike up level to check the oil level, obviously i will to drain the oil, but the dip stick is put in at an angel so is fairly level when the bike is on its stand so do i stand the bike up to check the level or do i leace it on its stand. Secondly, do i screw the dipstick all the way in, or just rest it on its threads? cheers folks

hmmm, wel now there is the possibility of its being reasonably serious rather than something that i can generally ignour and get away with until service time, i think i shall take it to the garage down the road in a bit. I think there is more play than there should be, having said that it has been like this for about a week now and breaking has got no worse, and there is no disfigurment in the rivets, so hmmm. suppose better to be safe than sorry. thanks folks

hmmm ust had another look at the bike and found something which could be quite concerning. Nothing under mud guard or anything like that but i thort i would have a look at the break disks on the front. They are bolted to the wheel by a black piece of metal, then the actual disks are bolted onto that with some hollow washer type things. The connection between disk break itself, and black piece of metal bolted to the wheel, i'm going to call it disk break holder, is really loose and i can actually wobble and move it around a little. And as it is connected to disk break holder with some hollow washers which i cant seem to find an allen key hole or anything on im not sure whether it is normal or how it can be fixed. cheers

Ok so got my new bike about a month ago, daytona 600, and everything has been going fine. Done a fair amount of miles in a short period of time, probably a bit over board really as one envolved a 7 pm to 7am ride from Newton Abbot, (Exeter is close enough and more recognisable so from there will do) to Bedford and back, follwed by 9 hour shift at work. Fun times though. Basically it quite quickly got to the point where i had to adust the bikes chain. Done this many times on previous bikes no problem, and also managaed it on this bike no problem as well. All good. However, afterafusting and lubricating the chain, a couple of days ater there is a strange noise coming from the front end of the bike. Basically, if i accelerate and then cut the throtle, as in ust going down hill in gear, it makes a strange noise as if the front tyre is rubbing on something. You can't hear it bellow 30mph, and you can still hear it if you pull the clutch in, and at over 70, you can hear it constantly. Also, the pitch of the noise increases with the speed. My possible thinking would be wheel bearings, but nothing seems loose or anything and it still handles perfectly. Then i got to thinking perhaps an oil change, but im fairly sure a lack in oil change wouldnt cause the front end to make a sound. Any ideas? Just wondering if it was a common problem or something, before i start worrying too much lol. cheers