Dan

Cheers guys

Hey All, hopefully someone out there can help with this. For a little while now the starter button on my bike has been clicking when i press it, just a single very loud click and the engine doesn't start. Usually it only takes a handful of presses before the bike eventually starts but it's getting worse. The other day i probably pressed it twenty odd times before the bike finally started. It doesn't matter if the engine is hot or cold and it doesn't always do it but it does more often than not. Google tells me it's either a faulty solenoid or a weak battery but what do you thinks more likely? I'm going to have to pay for either a new solenoid or one of those battery charge/test things either way by the looks of things. Just thought i'd see if i could avoid buying the wrong one first.

It came with one already fitted. It's this one from Amazon: http://www.amazon.co.uk/UltimateAddons- ... B005HGWGM2 If you scroll down to the questions you will see the one i asked before i bought it. I wanted to know whether or not it drains the battery. Basically as long as it's not left idle for a long period of time with a charger or something with an led plugged in you'll be alright. When i get a 'proper' bike i might rig up something a bit more flashy but for now on my YBR this is doing the job fine.

Thanks guys that's useful. It's all hooked up and working fine. I don't have the know how for installing a relay so was careful to get one that doesn't have an LED. Would be nice to have one that comes on and off with the ignition though, it's only a matter of time until I forget to unplug my charger and wake up to a flat battery

Hey guys, I bought a fused 12v power socket for the bike which I'm planning on hooking up later. One question. When it comes to connecting directly to the battery, do I connect the black or red wire first, or does it not matter? I'm not being lazy, I tried Google but the results were inconclusive.

So I had a look at the tensioner and its absolutely fine, looks and works as good as new as far as I can tell. I spent ages going around checking for any looseness in the bolts, panels, wiring etc and they were fine to. I'm starting to think its coming from the exhaust now, can exhausts make a clicking noise if they have a leak?

Cheers guys. I checked the oil and its spot on so tomorrow I'll have a go at the tensioner.I just hope its nothing serious but its only done 11k miles and has a FSH so I think that would be very bad luck. That service manual will be very handy!

So on the way to work yesterday I noticed a new noise coming from the engine. It sounds to me like a fast clicking or ticking (not plinking or tapping) which speeds up and slows down when the bike does. I can also hear it when idling. It's not massively loud but it's there in the background and I’m fairly sure it gets louder as the engine gets hotter. There is no noticeable drop in the bikes performance. After inspection I’m fairly sure it's coming from the lower right hand side of the engine but it's hard to pinpoint even with the old screwdriver as stethoscope method. I'm thinking cam chain tension but i don't know where it is or how to check it. What are your thoughts?

What model was it? Yamaha YBR 125 / 2010 / Silver / 11k miles When did you buy it and how much did it cost? I bought it in May 2014 for £1,295. That was with 1 previous owner and a full service history from a main Dealer plus 1 years MOT and tax. Good points? - The styling. Ok It is a totally inoffensive looking naked commuter, yet it still looks modern and sporty enough to draw the very occasional appreciative glance. Personally I think a 125 with full fairings, a belly pan and garish paintwork is like a sheep in wolfs clothing. Under all that gear its still only got a 125 tiddler, the parts are still basic and cheap. The YBR is a bike that knows what it is and is trying to do it with just a dash of style, nothing more. This is entirely subjective though. - They hold their value very well. If you’re mainly using it just to get some wheel time in between CBT and DAS and providing you keep it in good condition. You will likely get most of money back when you sell it on. - Unless this is somehow the first review of a YBR you’ve read, you would have been told that its fuel economy is phenomenal. Well it’s true, you ride and ride and the needle just never moves. So much so you may actually start to think it’s broken. But no, this thing runs on fresh air. - It’s Cheap to service and repair and easy to work on yourself. Since I’ve had it, I have cleaned, tightened and lubed the chain, replaced the headlight bulb and cleaned the air filter. Even with no previous experience I found these tasks very easy indeed. - The ride. I find it very comfortable to ride. The sitting position is very upright and the seat is long and wide and reasonably padded. The foot pegs, clutch and brake levers are well situated and the same can be said about all the buttons, switches and levers on the handlebars. Put it this way, during the few hundred miles I’ve covered since I’ve had it, I haven’t had to give my riding position a second thought, it just feels fine. You can just get on and ride it. The engine on my model ticks over with a spritely purr and gives a wee bit of grunt on acceleration. Don’t expect much more than 60-65mph out of it but I’d say up to 50mph it’s got decent enough pull and isn’t too sluggish. Fine for the purpose it was built anyway– commuting. The bikes light and turns well with reassuring grip and balance. The brakes do their job, so do the front and adjustable rear suspension. I’m a big guy and the the mirrors are big enough for me to have a perfect view behind me. The side stand has a fuel cut off if you try and put it down whilst still in gear, which is a nice safety feature. Mine came with a chrome carrier rack that will fit almost every top box. None of this stuff is unique or of superior quality or anything like that but it all works and works well. Bad points? - Rust. The stringent and regular servicing this bike has had and the great condition it’s in for its age tells me the previous owner took care of it. So it surprises me to see little rust patches mottling the chrome parts, exhaust, frame and the stands. It seems to be the utmost surface level that’s effected so it’s not like the bike’s being eaten away but it’s happening in the centre of the surfaces not in the usual nooks, crevices and soldering joints where water gets trapped and you would expect it. And this is a bike that’s been cared for remember, who knows how bad it would get if left. So I guess the paint work could have been a bit thicker and the chrome better. Lather the bike in water repellent as I plan to and I’m sure it will be fine. - The gears change well generally and slip into place with nice satisfying clicks but every now and then it slips into neutral. Usually when around gears 1 or/and 2. Very odd and more of a quirk then a fault. It has happened to me twice in a hundred or so miles. - Headlight may as well be a match. If you drive at night as I intend to, change the bulb to something better. - Overall feel. As much as I like the bike the general quality and feel of everything makes it hard for you to forget it’s basically a cheap 125 learner. It rattles a bit as you ride and the suspension is not great and the plastics tend to creak or groan if you press them. And the black rubber sleeve around the clutch lever has faded to almost white and has split in places after only 4 years. It seems to get scratched very easily to. Ultimately it is what it is, most of the annoyances and quirks are easily remedied and none of this stuff detracts too much from the overall joy of owning it. Would you get another? If it broke down tomorrow I would not hesitate in replacing it with another YBR Any other comments? They YBR is a reliable, hardworking and forgiving fit-for-purpose commuter, that does what it’s told without any fuss, drama or making a scene. What more were you expecting? As a learner you could maybe get something a little bit better but you could definitely do a whole lot worse!

Honda because if your only keeping it for a year and providing you keep it in good nick, you will probably be able to sell it for more or less what you paid. Also its more reliable, easier to get parts etc etc.

I know, its strange. I've already called them as ive only had the bike 3 days. They're going to come and pick it up, fit a new Tyre and then drop it back all for free so at least there is that. And they were really helpful and sympathetic. I just wondered if there was a legit reason. Ill ask them all about it when i see them and report back.

So one of my first threads on this forum was about a peice of Stanley knife blade getting into my rear tyre. First day commuting on new bike and kablammo!! Rear tyre goes to rubber heaven. It was a Michelin sporty so pretty decent and fairly new. It looks like I went over at least two objects but that's not the problem. The AA guy who came and rescued me was a biker with a Norton tattoo on his forearm and was all like 'bikers gotta stick together' so I knew I was in good hands. And he was super helpful. Ended up fixing it with a bottle of slime. The side of the tyre says tubeless but when he started tinkering he realised there was an inner tube in there and seemed genuinely surprised as to why. So that's what I'm wondering, is that normal? He said there might have been something wrong with tyre and the tube had been put in to kind of make up for it. What do you think, do people put tubes in tubeless tyres?

The whole purpose of a Sunday is for you to carry out menial tasks like washing your bike and mowing the lawn in an effort to distract yourself from the encroaching thought that it's Monday tomorrow and the sense of impending doom that comes with it. If you can't do that and all the shops are closed what the hell are you supposed to do all day? Spend time with the family? I don't think so. I wash my cars/bikes in my drive and always have, so do loads of people down my road if it's sunny. If there any laws in this country about it i've never heard of them.

Recently ive had Soundgarden's newish track live to rise on repeat. And a band called Lonely The Brave have a track called Trick of the light which I'm liking a lot.

Do you mean trickle charging? I don't know if it's possible to get something which is permantly attached, where would it get it's power from? When i was cleaning my bike recently one of my kids must have turned the key when they were pretending to ride it and stuck the lights on. I didn't notice and sure enough i went out to find the battery flat. Pesky kids! I went to Halfords spent a load of money on a charger, charged the battery and then took it back for a full refund.

What a kerfuffle! My Scooter failed it's MOT on head bearings aswell and i was quoted around the £200 mark also, so it appears thats the going rate. Rip off merchants! The guy i spoke to said it's an easy job but time consuming as they have to dismantle alot of the front of the bike and it's a bit fiddly and takes around 2 hours minimum. To be honest i got the impression he didn't want to do the work and was pricing me out. Maybe it's a pain in the arse job that mechanics hate doing or something. If you got the tools already you can do the job for just £20, it can't be that hard.

Cheers for the advice, decided it's worth a look so im going to see it after work. Hope it's fine, been looking for two months and im bored of dealing with small time bike dealers on the fringes of London and their hilariously inflated prices and shoddy stock. £1.5k for a 2008 17k miles cat C write off anyone? anyone? No thought not. i just can't bring myself to spend more on what is essentially a practice bike. if i can get at least two years troublefree riding from something that costs £800 i'll be well chuffed.

Good people of the forum, Impartial non-bias advice required. I'm thinking of getting the below: http://www.gumtree.com/p/cars-vans-motorbikes/yamaha-ybr-125cc-in-west-london/1055801320 It's a 2006 Yammy YBR with 22k miles on the clock for £800 I need it for commuting and practicing for my DAS im not looking for a deep meaningful long term relationship but i don't want it to pack up on me either. I took the advice in my other thread about mileage and it does look fairly well maintained. But i'm an amatuer. What i'd like some advice on is whether you got any alarm bells from the ad and whether it's a reasonable price. Also when i see it, what are they key things for me to check/test with a bike of that age/mileage. I know she must have seen a bit of action but at less than half my original budget. I'd use the cash leftover for my DAS. Also what the hell is a handlebar weight? All advice appreciated.

Cheers for the advice. After ringing around and getting similar quotes, I ended up getting in a strop and sticking it on autotrader yesterday afternoon minus the price of all the work that needed doing. By 7pm i'd flogged it! Im pleased as that means i don't have to spend money and time on something i'm trying to be rid of and i have yet more £'s towards getting an actual bike, but it all happened so suddenly, now i have no bike at all and i don't like the feeling On the plus side it's bike shopping time

As the title suggests my bike just failed it's MOT and i'm fairly pissed off about it as i'm currently trying to sell the thing! It failed on two things: The first is the front brake pads are knackered - Fine i can replace those easily not a problem. The second was that it had excessive "notching" when turning the handlebars with the front wheel off the ground, which i was told is the steering head bearings. The guy demonstrated it to me and i could indeed feel the notching when turning the handlebars left and right. For those in the know, does this sound like the correct diagnosis for the notching? I was quoted over £200 for the work as apparently it takes ages to dismantle and then get down to them, about 3 hours. Time aside is this an easy job to do as i might just do it myself rather then pay out £200 plus retest fees for a bike i'm desperately trying to sell!! Also i had an advisory 'Rear roller brake test indicates slight fluctuation of brake effort' what could be causing that? I hadn't noticed a single damn one of these things the bike rides, brakes and turns absolutely fine (for a 5 year old scooter with 19k miles on the clock) and i just want to get rid of it so i make some room on the drive for a CBF. its very frustrating. Any advice much appreciated

Hi All - This is hopefully a quickie. So the specs for my little Suzuki states the top speed is 63mph but the other day down a long incline i was pushing 75mph according to the speedo. The bike started to pull back or jolt It was like i was taking my hand all the way off the throttle except i wasn't. I'm wondering what caused this, was it simply my little 125cc engine gasping for air? I'm no mechanic but im guessing i should avoid doing it again.

This 'nob of the day' behaviour i experience every single damn day of life. People who see the L plates and propel themselves out in front of me like demented lemmings. I'm sure you know the ones I'm talking about. The people who pull out in front of you with such desperate urgency it's like the hounds of hell are snapping at their heels. They don't just want to pull out in front of you they need it. It's as if the survival of not just the human species but of the entire universe hinges on them pulling out onto that piece of road at that exact moment in time and to hell with the consequences!! Then THEN! they proceed to pootle along casually at approximately 25.5mph . Whilst your stuck behind them looking in your mirrors and fuming at the completely and utterly barren stretch of road thats snaking away behind you. Wondering why these contempable useless cretins couldn't wait 4,5 maybe even 6 seconds for you to pass them first.

I got no problem with you thrill seekers, no problem at all. Plus as a smoker I'm not going to lecture others about playing fast and loose with their health. Just try not to kill any of us normal folk whilst your taking it to the Max, pushing it to the limit or whatever it is you free thinking mavericks call it.

I voted other vehicles just because of the unpredictability factor, but really as a learner i guess it's all of the above! Speaking of being a learner, i'll add my L-Plates to the list, these things are bloody lethal. Frankly i get treated like a piece of crap on two wheels. Every day i get cut up, have people pull out in front of me, not giving way to me when i have right of way etc etc. I'm sure is the L's making them think i'm slow and unsure or something. Anyway, can't wait to get them off.

Here’s how my CBT went. I never really intended to get any type of motorcycle but when a friend of mine offered me his old Suzuki UX125 (scooter) for free, I obviously accepted. This meant me for the first time in 12 years slapping on some L-plates and attending a CBT course. Even though it was a slightly wearing looking scooter, I was incredibly eager to get going and had to endure the torture of having it sit on my drive for a week but not being able to touch it. I turned up for the CBT on a unseasonably hot day, it was boiling. It was me and three others on the course, two of which had been riding years and were just there to renew their certificate. And then me and one other who were total amateurs. The first hour or so was spent lounging on the grass soaking up the sun and talking about basic theory, safety and what gear to wear etc. I was fine with all of this stuff already and I’m sure most people are. If your sensible it’s fairly obvious you have to look after yourself on a bike clothing wise and have the right attitude on the road. I was a bit bored during this section and wanted to get on a bike. Finally we were taken for a walk around a Yamaha YBR which we would all be riding. We covered the positions and functions of all the levers, pedals, dials, switches, stands etc. Then how to check tyres, oil and all that stuff. The instructor was very thorough, and happily fielded questions from me and the other noob whilst the two experienced guys on the course looked bored and smoked cigarettes. The next part involved us all pushing around then sitting on the bike. Then we were shown how to start it and how to put it in and out of neutral, then first, then we slowly started pulling forward and backward including shoulder checks etc. This was when I first realised I might not be a natural as I was seriously clumsy on the clutch and changing gears and stalled a few times. Then I started to get a bit nervous that I might fail or not be able to complete the day as I was seriously rubbish. Finally I more or less got the hang of it and we started to ride around in circles, stopping and cone ‘junctions’ and pulling away, all the while correctly selecting and changing gear and stopping in good time. The instructor stood at the side yelling advice and instruction but personally there was way too much info to be taking in all at once. I was trying to listen to him, implement what he was saying and control all these alien levers and pedals all at the same time. My gear changes nearly yanked my arms out their sockets and my breaking nearly put me over the handlebars. It seemed no matter what brake I used it was always the wrong one and I was getting frustrated and angry at myself for being such a utterly useless cack-handed pleb. This went on for a couple of hours before we stopped, had a bit of a chat and moved on to the slow manoeuvres. I was drenched in nervous and heat related sweat at this point making me really uncomfortable and distracted and i was seriously stressing out as we were running out of time. Anyway I was awful at this as well whilst everybody else was getting on fine. I had issues with the throttle this time, I was either way to heavy or too light, I couldn’t slip the clutch properly and was seriously wobbly around each cone, I was probably rushing things. Luckily I didn’t put any feet down or fall off though. After a while doing slaloms and figure 8’s improved to an acceptable level and we started to get ready for the road. The instructor guy came up to me and said although I’d improved a lot over the course of day and he thought I’d be fine to go out on the road on a manual he could see a day of toiling and stressing in the sweltering sun had taken its toll on me (by now the sweat was actually dripping out the sleeves of my jacket- yeah gross) and I could either come back another day or use a 50cc scooter for the on road stuff. I’m a determined chap when I set my mind to things so I took the scooter out. To be honest my confidence which was low at that point increased significantly. Not having to worry about gears was a welcome break and I sailed through the manoeuvre’s and ride about with no problems what so ever and really enjoyed it. Then we headed back to the centre to pick up our certificates. I felt like mine had been well hard earned. I’ve used my bike every day to commute 150 miles a week, wind rain and shine (and flooding) since then and I’m obsessed. My advice for any other rank amateurs would be to use decent footwear, I wore hiking boots and they made my already clumsy fumbling even more ineffective, they were much too bulky. You should get some decent bike boots, you’ll be needing them after anyway.