dex

There seem to be two main routes with volunteering... The picky organisations (like VSO) want volunteers with particular skill sets, who can provide great value in what they do while they're out there. Then there's the more commercial organisations, who seem a lot less fussy about who they take, as long as they turn up with a lump of money. I do wonder with these companies how much they expect the volunteer to actually achieve, or whether the main aim is just to get the income. (Just to clarify - I'm sure that some of that income goes towards helping out and good causes, but it seems in some cases it's the income that matters to them, rather than the work the volunteer goes on to do) The problem with the second type is that you would actually do more good if you just donated the lump sum to a charity (Oxfam or whoever) and then didn't take up the time/travel/accomodation to go abroad. But of course that's likely to be less of an experience than getting to go abroad. If it was me doing it (and I looked into it earlier this year when it was possible I'd be made redundant) I would be looking to see decide whether the most important thing for me was "making a difference" or having the experience of the travel etc. That is likely to help you have an idea which route to go

*Generally* - Schuberth. They seem to spend the most effort of all the manufacturers in making their lids as quiet as possible.

A good friend sold a couple of hundred quids worth of bike stuff on ebay. Then buyer filed a "did not receive item" complaint after paying through paypal. My mate scanned the proof of delivery from the courier and emailed it, along with a link to the proof of delivery URL from the courier's website. Ebay/Paypal found in favour of the buyer - and refunded him his money out of my mate's paypal account. I'll still buy from Ebay - because it's very hard to get caught out, but sellers really do have no protection in some cases.

If your bike has been properly treated with ACF50 then you shouldn't need to use Muc-Off to clean it. Cheap car shampoo and warm water will do the job just nicely. Remember to always thoroughly hose the bike off with cold water first in the winter to remove any salt/grit before you put warm water near it.

If you like mapsource (I don't, I think it's rubbish) then you'll love TYRE (Track Your Route Everywhere) - it's completely free and uses google maps, letting you click and drag waypoints etc.

But seriously - you might well not have bought one if you'd had to pay full price for one with no extras, even if it was blue.

Good review - lots of info I saw George Whites have a really good discount deal on them at the moment - went in and had a look just out of interest. Looked like it was suddenly a lot of bike for the money (compared to the previous £13k with no options) Mind you - yours came fully loaded so I still think you're quids in (The one they had in GWs was silver though, and I really think the Teneres look miles better in red/white or blue)

I've got a Zumo 660, which I bought in preference to the Tom-Tom after grilling everyone I could find who had one or t'other. Halfway along the Pyrenees last month I bumped into a guy with the top Tom-tom - who said he was about ready to skip it as the screen was unreadable in the sunlight. We put the two next to each other and he decided he'll order a Garmin when he got back! There's cheaper options that work pretty well (car sat nav in waterproof case), which I've used in the past - but I have to say I think the 660 was worth the money for the ease of use and the way everything integrates.

You asked what the best is... I'd say the best on the market is a Garmin Zumo 660, then rather than using the caberg bluetooth system use a Sena SMH-10. Although having said that, the Caberg lid is so noisy that you may as well use the Caberg's own bluetooth headset. Just make sure you're wearing decent ear plugs designed to filter Motorbike levels of noise (Alpine Moto-safe are quite excellent for the money) My 660 gets used daily for my 120 mile commute. I don't need the directions to work, but it's great to use as a music player, and for re-routing if there's really bad traffic or an accident.

Dex, check out RBL Riders on Facebook, or http://www.RBLR.co.uk it's the Royal British Legion Riders branch, supporting the poppy appeal, costs less than Afgan Heroes and all monies raised goes to the poppy appeal which helps HM forces past, present and future. plus they have been going for 4 years so have a better events calendar than Afgan Heroes (FWIH) Helen- thanks for the link, but I'm already signed up

yep seriously Dex - nickname I've had for quite a while. Although if you're nickname happens to be the lead character of a tv series about nasty scary bikers then I shall be doubly amused

I saw the price has just dropped to £10 after the previous announcement of £20. Mind you - it still costs £35 to join their riders group thing. (Seriously, "Jax Teller"? )

I can't comment on Akey's reasons. Although I have a fair idea on a few. The ride is now £20 per person (so £40 with pillion) which strikes me as a little steep. I believe AH are still due to post accounts to show the split between admin costs and money used for charity. AH have set up their own bike club, £35 a year membership. Lot of money for membership of such a targeted charity - Royal British Legion Riders will cost you less to join, let you do more and they help a whole lot more people. NB - I'm not trying to stop anyone from donating to charity. I do feel that if you give to charity you should think carefully about which one, why and what they'll do with the money.

Just decided - since my Euro trip is starting with the start of Le Tour - then while I'm in the Pyrenees I'd better do the Tourmalet! I suspect I will find it a little easier than the peloton do...

It will slightly lower the overall gearing of the bike (each gear will be slightly lower, due to the lower final drive) In-gear acceleration will be increased, but that each gear's top speed will be slightly lower. Unless your bikes pulls the rev limit in top gear, and you do actually do it, then it's unlikely you'll even notice the lower theoretical top speed. However there's a good chance you'll notice the bike having slightly more acceleration. It should have no effect on tyre wear or any other consumables. At high cruising speeds it "might" slightly increase fuel consumption, but often it has no effect.

I thought the Prologue was going to be using the causeway? Or maybe that was stage 1 - I can't remember!

End June/ Early July - Going to France to watch prologue and first couple of stages of Le Tour, then head down to spanish border, Andorra, across pyrenees back to santander for 24hr ferry back. Similar sort of time is the RBLR 1000 (1000miles, 24 hours) not really a "tour" as such lol Might be doing Nurburgring in August, but not yet sure if that will be in car or on bike

Drill slowly, if you drill fast you'll overheat the tip and blunt it. Slow speed, enough pressure so the tip bites (or you're polishing not drilling) and plenty of oil to cool and lubricate. You need to drill most of the way through so the EZ out can bite, if you don't drill deep enough you end up with a stainless bolt with a snapped EZ out stuck in it! Got any pics?

i'd probably look for a 120/60 front rather than a 120/70 110/70 has a 77mm sidewall, 120/70 has 84mm, 120/60 has 72mm sidewall. So the 120/60 sidewall is less different to std than the 120/70, and by being lower it will sharpen up the geometry on the bike slightly. That will help counteract any slowing of steering caused by the wider tyre.

I've always put spark plugs (with crush washers) in finger tight then quarter turn. Never had a problem with them. ( taper seat plugs are different )

Lol, yeah I know - the advice you weren't looking was "buy Altberg" but they are the only boots I know of designed to do exactly what you're looking for, anything else will be a bigger compromise, either on the bike or walking. Personally, if I couldn't get them I'd go for something more suited for walking. If you go hill walking in something unsuitable then you know yourself you'll be more likely to slip and damage yourself. ( but genuinely, take the time to break them in and the altbergs are boots for life)

I hate to say it, but are you sure? I wear altbergs for work ( I'm military ) and they are by far the most comfortable, longest lasting and all round best boots I've ever worn, including ones I've spent my own cash on. Altberg boots are up with the very best in military boots, I genuinely think you can buy different, but not better. I've just got a pair of clubman bike boots and I think they're pretty great. I've been wearing them at work to break them in and they're really very impressive. They take a bit of breaking in ( as you'd expect of a boot that's going to keep your feet in one piece in an off ) but they will last you a lifetime, both on and off the boots. Add up the cost of a decent pair of waterproof bike boots, plus walking boots and the altbergs suddenly become a bargain. Bit, if you can't, or won't, spend the money on the altbergs, then I'd suggest wearing your current walking boots on the bike to go to and from. They won't provide much, or any, protection if you fall off ( depending on what boots they are) it it means spending no money and having boots you already like for walking in. Generally a lot of military boots are pretty poor for hill walking, you'd need to buy new to get them to break in and for right (and to make sure they weren't knackered ) and the soles on most military boots are too hard for wet rocks etc ( issued military boots tend to be made so the sole lasts well with lots of use on tarmac and concrete ) they also tend not to have good sole or heel cushioning, so if you get military boots you'd do well to get sorbothane insolent. If you definitely decide to get military boots for it, I'd try the uk pro boots ( goretex lined ) but be aware of the limitation of the soles, and that there is little or no impact protection for your ankles, rarely any crush protection, and to be wary of loose laces round gear levers, brake pedals or anywhere near chains.

The best advice you'll ever get for cleaning leather and textiles is this... Don't do it. Get scrubbers leathers to do it instead. They're the people all the bike mags use, they've been doing it for years and they know far more about the materials the kit is made from than you ever will. I used to clean my own stuff, it was a hassle and I was never convinced my textiles were as waterproof after. I'm now converted, I spent more money on stuff to clean my kit than they change to do it all for me. Seriously, Google scrubbers leathers.

It's simple enough really- none of us are wsb, MOTO gp, etc. Clutchless upshift: For: faster, smoother with practice. Against: can cause damage if done incorrectly. Clutchless downshift: For: no reason I fan think of Against: can do damage, much harder to get smooth. Seems pretty clear cut to me, if you do them both properly you benefit from the up, but gain nothing from the down. I've no wish to spend time learning a technique that has no benefits, and is very likely to make my riding less smooth and risk damage while I'm learning it.