Averandomage

For anyone who stumbles across this; I called up a garage and they suggested .08-.12 (.10) intake .10-.14 (.12) outlet based on their database (Derbi Cross City 125).

Thank you, I believe the 4T is only used in the Derbi GPR and is structurally different, but the instructions are great. I will try and get more clarity based on engine number once I get home from work before 11pm some day Really appreciate all the help gents! I'll keep you posted how it goes.

Btw my engine has an OHC I believe, so might not be too similar after all.. however your manual mentions the CB 125 as an OHC engine, and the valve settings are .08mm + .12mm vs .08mm for both on the CG. I might check whether mine diverge significantly even in their un-aligned state.

Thanks, that's the manual I have, advising me to adjust them if necessary, but not to which clearance

Fair enough! Here's a bit of trivia - Spanner is colloquial for peeping tom in German no offence intended

Thanks I'll check it out! You German by any chance? While it is a noisy piece, it's definitely more so than it should be right now its the typical (or so I've read) clicking noise.

I will check out the pdf once I'm home (with caution ), thanks. Couldn't find it listed on the Halford website unfortunately. It is quite new, first registered in late 2015.. but turned noisier (after a day of rougher riding) to the point that I'm worried about serious damage, so thought it most prudent to make sure the valves are set right.

Hi all, I have been skimming the internet for a couple of days trying to figure out what the correct valve clearance is for my cross city - lots of forum posts everywhere asking the same, but no real answer (I could find). I can't find a shop e-manual either, and the engine is variably claimed to be a honda CG, CLR , xl/r , CB or a chinese brand. The user manual helpfully advises to adjust the clearance if necessary, and thats it Maybe somebody can help me out here? Any advice / help much appreciated

Alright, thx much appreciated. @six very nice! Unfortunately not on offer. You should try flip flops if you angle them right they even help with downforce!

One last model to piggyback off this thread- http://www.getgeared.co.uk/alpinestars-district-boots-wp-black Its everything but high as far as I can tell, so no lower leg protection above the ankle. But also no laces, its waterproof and still works as a street shoe. Also Alpinestar is a known brand for all its worth AFAIK. Will probably run with this one unless someone voices major concerns about the height. And thank you very much for the input everyone

The idea is that you tie them properly, and then use the strap provided for just that purpose to prevent them from dangling around. I agree that boots offer better protection in general, but if I can get shoes that are reinforced in the right places and wouldn't look out of place around town I'd prefer that. Because laces never come undone... Each to their own, but not my style. Looks like they would be very cold too with the air rushing in past the laces. You make some good points, guess I was trying to have my cake and eat it too I will think it over some more, thanks for the pointers Joe!

The idea is that you tie them properly, and then use the strap provided for just that purpose to prevent them from dangling around. I agree that boots offer better protection in general, but if I can get shoes that are reinforced in the right places and wouldn't look out of place around town I'd prefer that.

I was thinking of something like this http://www.getgeared.co.uk/rev-it-fairfax-shoes-brown they claim reinforced ankle protection, but yes, they are not quite as high as normal boots

Thanks for all the suggestions! I'm looking around London for those nights where commuting wasn't enough and I feel like zipping around for another hour and a bit! Will definitely check all your suggestions, and maybe try venturing a little further as well FYI my mighty 125 will tackle any hill, I probably won't even have to go down into 1st gear

Hi everyone, apart from the annoying name, does anybody have experience with rev it shoes? There are some decent offers on 'getgeared' right now, and I like the idea of cross-over shoes -e.g. looks more like a high street shoe than like something the power rangers would wear, but adds abrasion resistance, ankle protection, etc. Grateful for any advice on the brand / type of shoe

Thanks Phil, that sounds great! I'll definitely check it out. @drzhooner I am frequently tempted to

Hi there, not sure if this is the right place- I was wondering if any of my fellow London riders had some nice routes up their sleeves within the city? It seems London consists above all other things of endless traffic lights. I'm in E1, and apart from Canary Wharf /Wapping there doesn't seem to be much worth looking at around. Happy to hear any suggestions, be that pretty old roads or off-road tracks along canals

Quick update everything is back to working. Fault was within my adjustment of the cable after all, but at least I got an oil change out of it and learnt how my clutch looks and works.

The cable had a bit of drag, and I oiled it a moment ago, so that should help a bit (and the lever was accordingly floppy). I just had the crankcase open, and the return spring is in fine condition, but not that large/strong- does the clutch itself play any part in providing resistance/ returning the lever? Because my plates and basket appear fine too, a little sticky but no visible damage. I'm new to this size engine (have only worked on RC cars previously) so I'm still trying to make sense of how the clutch disengages - it appears that the clutch lever pushes on a little peg that goes through the middle of the pressure plate. I have seen diagrams of other clutches where this peg pushes the pressure plate away from the plates, but coming from the other side of the engine block.- I don't understand how pushing from the side of the plate would achieve a similar effect (also it does not appear to move when pushed) I hope that makes sense, super awesome if someone could throw some light here

Hi and thank you for your time! I am trying to make sense of a bunch of symptoms here; My clutch cable recently snapped, and I just fitted a replacement until the OEM cable arrives. However.. -The clutch lever does not return once released (to my understanding there is a spring inside the case to return the little lever my clutch cable "pulls on" - this returns itself if manually engaged, but not with enough force to pull the cable and handlebar lever back properly) -The clutch does not disengage properly - enough to shift gears but not enough to start the engine in first gear for instance. If I remember correctly it had been this way since the cable snapped. I am hoping that my plates are just sticky, however warming up / driving around the block has not helped much. I am not sure how the cable snapping / spring breaking / clutch seizing could all result from the same incident, except through some weird wiplash effect. My plan is to open the clutch case tonight and have a look inside if I can spot the fault, but until then I thought it was worth checking if any of you can make out a pattern in this. Fingers crossed I don't need a new clutch to come 4 weeks from Europe.. Thanks again