Natebat5

Yeah, do it while you've got the engine out of the frame! It's a 2 stroke, right? If you've got everything back together right "all you have to do" is set the max points gap (usually there's a mark on the crank or something). You can then use a cylinder probe/DTI/trig to find the crank rotation for the correct timing and use an ohm meter/battery and light bulb/Rizla paper to adjust the points so they're just opening. Have you got a manual? And yes it's a 2stroke and I have a clymers manual that is it.

Yeah, do it while you've got the engine out of the frame! It's a 2 stroke, right? If you've got everything back together right "all you have to do" is set the max points gap (usually there's a mark on the crank or something). You can then use a cylinder probe/DTI/trig to find the crank rotation for the correct timing and use an ohm meter/battery and light bulb/Rizla paper to adjust the points so they're just opening. Have you got a manual? So if I'm following you correctly all I do is line up the mark on the crank to the little mark on the point case thingy and set the points to max open? I don't think I'm following you thy doesn't sound right. And how would I use a multi meter to set timing? I need a little more in depth because quite honestly I just don't understand. Thanks for the tip anyway

I could use some advice though, I need to set my timing because the pistons moved around when I had my cases split and my points thingy off. So I pretty sure I know how to do it that's not my issue I can't figure out what kind of dial gauge to get and some of these gauges cost several hundred?!? No way I'm spending over $20 bucks for a little gauge, also I have read there can be clearance issues for the gauge because there isn't much room between the top of the engine and frame. Any advice?

Yes I ended up using a rd250 transmission, the only difference is first gear size but I didn't need it so I just used the shaft and 2nd gear from the 250. with all my seals gaskets and transmission parts it only end up costing me $102.77. I also know what I did wrong... wait for it... underfilled my transmission oil, but hey for others future reference it's supposed to hold 1500 cc or 1500 ml of oil. I also decided now is the time to clean and paint this bad boy so here's some pics. Currently I am only waiting for my clutch side gasket to come in the mail then I'll buy some more oil and start her up! After I put the engine back in the bike of course

Well not so great news because so far I can't find the parts I need, 2nd gear especially hard to find, only found one drive/output shaft....

Yes! I found the problem! It's the second gear seems to have messed the shaft and itself up I haven't been able to remove it yet it's stuck. But this is great news now I can order new parts and get this puppy back on the road.

So I split the cases today just finished actually, went fairly well I think. Anyway I think I need a break. I can't find the problem it doesn't make sound regularly. I think I'm going to replace everything that could be the problem. Here's some pictures.

Made some progress yesterday, and a little cleaning today, never said she was clean definitely a dirty girl. I think I'm gonna have to soda blast the air cool fins can't wire wheel em.

Just bought my new favorite toy

So I went on a hunch and I think the problem is on my main shaft or input shaft (whatever you wanna call it) so I know my clutch isn't disengaging properly so I removed all my clutch plates then I put the side cover back on filled it back up with oil and started the bike. Vroom it came to life no problem, well that's what I expected would happen so I think my problem is the same as this guys; http://www.2strokeworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=23286.0 Anyway I need to split my center case so I can see if it really is my input shaft, I believe that guy said his problem was on his input shaft and the 5th gear. Hopefully this doesn't get to expensive

Part of the problem is the only thing I have that will fit Is a crescent wrench and the nut is very tight even in first gear with the rear brake jammed down it wouldn't come off, maybe I should try buying a socket wrench socket that's big enough for this nut... it's a very big nut and I don't have a socket that will fit

Here you go

Does anybody have suggestions on how to get the clutch boss nut off it seems impossible

https://youtu.be/1CScs47mHLI Here's a link for some audio of the sound with the engine on.

What?

I guess I'll take my clutch apart when I get home see if I can find the problem

i hope your right fixing my clutch is a lot easier and cheaper than something else

So I haven't accomplished much I took the side covers off and I didn't see anything alarming yet also the sound went away so I went and got some yamalube 2 stroke gearbox oil and put that in it started it up and the sound was still there (obviously) anyway I did notice something. Normally on my bike before I had any problems, I could push my bike if it was in gear first, second, etc. as long as I had the clutch lever pulled in, last night when I went to push in back into the garage I decided to put it in first and pull the clutch in and push, it was barley easier than without the clutch pulled in. I don't know what that means but it's not the way it used to be. I can push it when it's in neutral, it feels normal, but before with my clutch in it would be just as easy as neutral. Also it makes the sound with the engine on in neutral, but it also make the sound with the bike off and spinning the sprocket when it's in neutral, so doesn't that mean it has to be a clutch related problem? Please help me out here guys.

No the gearbox had oil but I was going to take a recording of the sound on my phone this morning but sure enough when I spin the front sprocket there's no longer any horrible sound so now even if I take the center case apart I won't know what part is wrong inside, I was following it by its sound now I have no way to identify the problem. This is getting very frustrating... I was using the manuals recommended oil which if I remember off hand is 10w 30 normal car motor oil, that's the recommendation. but of course there's newer fancier stuff now so should I maybe try gear oil? and if I do what weight? I've read around 75-80w works good, any tips?

I'm currently trying to take the bike apart so I can see what's going on

So today was take 2 of riding my bike on the open roads and of course I get screwed again! Ok so the bike started a real loud screech squeal when I was going about 55mph so I pulled over and had to have my dad pick me up we loaded the bike in his truck and brought it home. here's what I've done so far, I put the bike on it's center stand and when I spun the rear wheel it would make the bad sound so I think that rules the engine out, I removed the chain and spun the front sprocket it made the same sound so that rules the chain out, the sound seems to come from right behind the front sprocket and I looked in my service manual and there's a bearing back there is it possible the bearing just went bad and it needs to be replaced or is it something worse? Also pulling in the clutch makes no difference on the sound.

Any ideas?

Thank you very much for the info! I think your right I guess I better start researching what kind of resistor I need

Ok I'm posting this because I'm trying to help my brother out. he bought a 1993 Kawasaki Vulcan a couple weeks ago and he was practicing riding but me and my dad noticed it was making a weird clicking sound, I tried to see what was wrong with it and this is what I figured out; it doesn't matter if the bike is on or not, the sound seems to be coming from the gearbox/ and belt (it's a belt driven bike). The sound happens when The bike moves, even if it's off and I'm just pushing it. so I'm not sure if it's just simply the belt is too loose or perhaps too tight. Or maybe the belt is rubbing against something? Maybe it's not the belt at all, I'm not very familiar with the bike and I can't find much info online about this clicking sound. It's not engine knocking because the sound is there regardless of whether it's running or not, I'm pretty positive that the sound is coming from where the belt meets the gears? I'm not entirely sure how a belt driven bike works. Let me know your ideas -thanks

Just to follow up on what has happened the fork began to leak oil like I feared it would, so I put the other fork on (had to spin it around 180) but I've ridden the bike and no issues so looks like Ive beaten one isssue.