Peteinnit

Thanks for the part number and KLM link the only one I could find here was 140 quid. I've got a friend in Germany, so that should also save me the 35 euro postage . Also found one for 70 quid in the UK, so will get one. The chain was a decent one, can't remember when I had it fitted, hasn't done as many mile as I would've expected but then it does normally get put away for the winter these days, pretty sure i replaced the sprockets as well. I'll have to keep an eye and put changing the lot, on the list. Thanks again for all replies, much appreciated.

Hi all, Another day another problem (but not a major one ). My neutral light doesn't work when the engine gets hot, finding a replacement seems to be tricky and expensive, so wondering if they can be refurbished, or if there is an alternative part from a newer bike that might work. I've already had it out and cleaned it, but no change. My bike is a GSX 750W from '99, the switch has 2 copper(?) contacts on it, I have seen similar with 6 contacts which I assume are for bikes with a gear indicator on the cluster and am wondering if this would work as they seem to be cheaper. Whilst I'm here, I've also got a tight spot on the chain, it's over 3 links and occurs in the same place each revolution, am I right in thinking it's the chain rather than one of the sprockets? Cheers, Peter

2, 3 years max. I will keep an eye on it though. Cheers

Despite the charger telling me the battery was good, I left it on charge overnight and it started first time when I reconnected. Another lesson learnt :-). Thanks for the replies, much appreciated.

Hi all, Just brought my bike out for the summer and all was good. I went for 150 mile ride, got back to my garage, left it on the road not running, but ignition and lights on for 5 minutes whilst I opened the door, went to start it and got nothing except the clicks you get when the battery is dead. It wouldn't turn over, just click click click. Assumed the battery had dumped it's charge for some reason, but just put my battery on charge and it's full. Did a multimeter check and got 12.94 reading. I'm gonna check the fuses/wiring first thing tomorrow, but just wondering if anyone might have any suggestions. Just seems strange that it just stopped like that. Any advice much appreciated. Cheers, Peter

Sorry Ride with styles, I did respond to this but it didn't post for some reason. That was very helpful thanks, all makes perfect sense and job now done. Cheers

Hi all, I'm just going through this for the first time on this bike and have got a little confused with the workshop manual instructions on the order of adjustments. I think there may be a print error in the manual and want to make sure I'm adjusting the right valves. On the head are stamped letters A-Cyl 1 & 2 Ex, B-Cyl 3 & 4 Ex, C-Cyl 1 & 2 In and D-Cyl 3 & 4 In, the manual only mentions letters C and D. I can understand the order using only C & D reference, the confusion comes with the illustration and note. I've aligned the crank in position as shown on bottom of page 1 attached and the bottom paragraph tells me to adjust valves marked with a C on Cyls 1, 2 and 3, however the drawing on the top of page one shows Cyl 1 on the left marked as D, which contradicts the note. So I think either or the note or the drawing is marked incorrectly, either the note should be Cyl 4, 2 and 3, or on the drawing Cyl 1 and 4 have been mis-labelled, 1 should be C and 4, D. The latter seems to make more sense to me. Does that make sense, has anyone else noticed this? Can anyone clarify? At the moment I'm thinking I could just do a dry run as to what I think the order should be and if the gaps feel right/close, then the order is right and I can make the minor adjustments. Any advice will be much appreciated. Thanks, Peter PS. On another topic my neutral indicator switch has gone, when I removed it, it has 2 brass/copper points on it, but the only replacement ones I can find have 6 points on them, which I assume is for bikes with a gear indicator on the instrument panel, anyone know if these will work on mine as well? Thanks.

Hi all, I noticed this recently and have also subsequently noticed that I can also start the bike without applying the clutch lever and the engine stops if I put the side stand down whilst in neutral. Initially I suspected the neutral indicator switch, which seems easy enough to replace (which I'll get round to soon), but just wondering if this switch could also be responsible for the other 2 issues as well, or whether I may have multiple problems? Whilst I didn't notice the clutch lever thing til today, I suspect all 3 issue started at the same time, so hoping there will be one fix for all. Now I've written this, I guess the answer is to replace the switch and see if the others are cured as well Cheers, Peter

Can't see the tie wraps, it's just not polished to chrome shine on the inside, apparently they can't get the polisher tool in there, although most of it looks good, just one end worse than the other. Probably just too much hassle for them to attend to the detail. Have managed to polish it a bit more myself with fine wire brush on my drill. Might try a different chromer for the 2nd one, see if they do any better.

I've got one of the screwfix sets, but they're too big for my bike springs. The Sealey one got rubbish reviews on Amazon, so have steered clear. Haven't seen any budget ones that have received good reviews unfortunately. Just got one spring set back from the chromers, not brilliant job on the spring unfortunately as they couldn't get inside to polish properly. I expected as much as was warned by a different company that it may be a problem, so may look at powder coating instead, or see if I can get some replacement springs only. Never goes smoothly does it. Has anyone had a good chroming job done on springs where the inside was as good as the outside? Cheers

Found a localish brake and suspension specialist who took it off for me for a tenner and will put it back on once cleaned up.

Yeah, I was afraid of that! I'm can be in Chingford, Harrietsham, or Gillingham, Kent. I guess other alternative is to take into a shop and get them to remove it for me. Don't think I'll be doing it often and that might be cheaper than shelling out for a good tool. Cheers

Hi all, I'm looking at refurbing my rear shocks, (springs rusty) and was wondering if anyone can recommend a decent compressor tool? The ones I have for cars are too big and the reviews for the smaller tools from Sealey and Laser have all slated them as rubbish. I can't find any others that are available in UK. TUSK come up as well, but they're only Stateside. I've seen a few of the DIY compressors, but I don't have space to make em. Anyone know a good set? Cheers, Peter