Peteinnit

Sorry Ride with styles, I did respond to this but it didn't post for some reason. That was very helpful thanks, all makes perfect sense and job now done. Cheers

Hi all, I'm just going through this for the first time on this bike and have got a little confused with the workshop manual instructions on the order of adjustments. I think there may be a print error in the manual and want to make sure I'm adjusting the right valves. On the head are stamped letters A-Cyl 1 & 2 Ex, B-Cyl 3 & 4 Ex, C-Cyl 1 & 2 In and D-Cyl 3 & 4 In, the manual only mentions letters C and D. I can understand the order using only C & D reference, the confusion comes with the illustration and note. I've aligned the crank in position as shown on bottom of page 1 attached and the bottom paragraph tells me to adjust valves marked with a C on Cyls 1, 2 and 3, however the drawing on the top of page one shows Cyl 1 on the left marked as D, which contradicts the note. So I think either or the note or the drawing is marked incorrectly, either the note should be Cyl 4, 2 and 3, or on the drawing Cyl 1 and 4 have been mis-labelled, 1 should be C and 4, D. The latter seems to make more sense to me. Does that make sense, has anyone else noticed this? Can anyone clarify? At the moment I'm thinking I could just do a dry run as to what I think the order should be and if the gaps feel right/close, then the order is right and I can make the minor adjustments. Any advice will be much appreciated. Thanks, Peter PS. On another topic my neutral indicator switch has gone, when I removed it, it has 2 brass/copper points on it, but the only replacement ones I can find have 6 points on them, which I assume is for bikes with a gear indicator on the instrument panel, anyone know if these will work on mine as well? Thanks.

Hi all, I noticed this recently and have also subsequently noticed that I can also start the bike without applying the clutch lever and the engine stops if I put the side stand down whilst in neutral. Initially I suspected the neutral indicator switch, which seems easy enough to replace (which I'll get round to soon), but just wondering if this switch could also be responsible for the other 2 issues as well, or whether I may have multiple problems? Whilst I didn't notice the clutch lever thing til today, I suspect all 3 issue started at the same time, so hoping there will be one fix for all. Now I've written this, I guess the answer is to replace the switch and see if the others are cured as well Cheers, Peter

Can't see the tie wraps, it's just not polished to chrome shine on the inside, apparently they can't get the polisher tool in there, although most of it looks good, just one end worse than the other. Probably just too much hassle for them to attend to the detail. Have managed to polish it a bit more myself with fine wire brush on my drill. Might try a different chromer for the 2nd one, see if they do any better.

I've got one of the screwfix sets, but they're too big for my bike springs. The Sealey one got rubbish reviews on Amazon, so have steered clear. Haven't seen any budget ones that have received good reviews unfortunately. Just got one spring set back from the chromers, not brilliant job on the spring unfortunately as they couldn't get inside to polish properly. I expected as much as was warned by a different company that it may be a problem, so may look at powder coating instead, or see if I can get some replacement springs only. Never goes smoothly does it. Has anyone had a good chroming job done on springs where the inside was as good as the outside? Cheers

Found a localish brake and suspension specialist who took it off for me for a tenner and will put it back on once cleaned up.

Yeah, I was afraid of that! I'm can be in Chingford, Harrietsham, or Gillingham, Kent. I guess other alternative is to take into a shop and get them to remove it for me. Don't think I'll be doing it often and that might be cheaper than shelling out for a good tool. Cheers

Hi all, I'm looking at refurbing my rear shocks, (springs rusty) and was wondering if anyone can recommend a decent compressor tool? The ones I have for cars are too big and the reviews for the smaller tools from Sealey and Laser have all slated them as rubbish. I can't find any others that are available in UK. TUSK come up as well, but they're only Stateside. I've seen a few of the DIY compressors, but I don't have space to make em. Anyone know a good set? Cheers, Peter