shamg

This is my number one suspicion, I recently just rebuilt the top end as well so I feel foolish for not checking them then but it's all a lesson I suppose.

I don't think I'll have to bump the bike any time soon (even in reverse)... it has a kickstart

Good call on the ignition timing, i will check it out. Any suggestions welcome

Hello I was just wondering what could cause carb blow back on a 2 stroke. I’ve an old TS100 I’m trying to start and every so often the kick is accompanied by a blast of air from out the carb and white smoke (with a slight burning smell and slight bang as tho the bike is trying to fire). The bike currently has no air filter due to the lack of a rubber hose connecting the box and carb. I’m thinking the issue could possibly be the reed valves or just a bad fuel/air ratio?

Could it possibly be due to there being no battery? Would the ignition system need a battery to spark?

Doesn’t seem to have worked, tho the plug is quite old I think.

Hello, I’ve been trying to get an old ts100 to start and I have no spark. To begin with, I tested the spark plug by holding it on the cylinder head and I had spark, so I was trying to start it by pouring fuel into the cylinder and kicking it. However, after doing this for a while (to no avail) I’ve tested the spark again and it’s not sparking. Any ideas what could’ve happened? I should also add there is no battery hooked up if that makes a difference. Thanks

I will have to pinch the battery off my xlr and give it a go, but the loom on this bike is in sorry state

This bike definitely has the slot for a battery, and also has a regulator rectifier. So this means it’s not a DR125 but a SP, which means it requires a battery? It has run without a battery before but this may be what caused the HT lead to go bad in the first place. I also noticed it has the mikuni carb found on the GS125 whereas usually the DR usually has a teikei carb as standard.

Okay, I had a battery previously and hooked it up and all was fine, I would turn on the ignition and the dash would light up, lights work etc. Then upon starting the bike however, all lights and electrics seemed like they were running off the engine, and not the battery (lights would fade and brighten slightly with the rev of the engine). After restarting the bike, it would run as though there was no battery attached at all. Could this be due to a bad regulator?

Thank you for your replies, I will invest in a spark tester There is no battery currently attached to the bike, shouldn’t need one to run tho should it?

It’s coming back slightly wet with what smells like fuel, not oil

Seems to have done the same thing again, took off and cleaned the carb and the bike wouldn’t start. Checked the spark and there wasn’t one, swapped out the HT lead for another and it sparks now but still won’t start, just gives a loud pop/backfire every kick, but there is a small hole in the exhaust. On another note, kickstart seems to have gone slightly stiffer?

Thanks for your response, fit a new ignition coil/HT lead last night and bike fired right up.

Also, here is a picture of the stator, not entirely sure what to be looking for in terms of damage, but does it look at all melted/corroded to a point where it will no longer work?

Hello, I've got a 1988 DR125 with no spark. I put in a brand new plug, checked connections and still nothing. Pulled out a few bits to test resistances etc. stator was fine but the HT lead resistance was a bit lower than recommended (about 2000 ohms under recommended) so I've ordered a new one. Prior to this the bike had a few instances where it shut off from what appeared to be overheating leading to no spark. Is there anything else that could be the problem based upon the fact it was overheating, such as the CDI? Also on a slightly unrelated note, what do people find is the best method of setting the engine timing correctly on these single cylinder jap bikes? I usually manage it but with great difficulty. Thanks

Cheers mate

Thanks! Will give it a go tomorrow. Something else strange, I put the first fuse I thought I had blown back in and the electrics came on again, so maybe i didn’t blow the fuse at all? Tapped the starter lightly with a hammer a few times and it spun a little bit soon stuck again.

Hello, recently picked up a very beaten and abused Honda xlr 125, however it did start and run, but the starter was a bit prone to sticking apparently. Bike was incredibly filthy so gave it a wash today and let it dry a couple of hours. Went to start it and the starter clicked and then all electrics went dead. Swapped the fuse and the electrics came back, but upon pressing the starter the same thing happened. Could water have got in the starter when I washed it and is causing it to stick and blow a fuse? Sprayed it with some wd40 as it’s water repellant, any other ideas?

Oh that’s a relief, now I’ll just have to wait for god knows how long for a new clutch cable to arrive on a quick side note I also pulled a bunch of horse hair out of the exhaust which I assume is the fibreglass muffler. Do I need to replace the exhaust, or does it have no impact on performance

Okay a bit of progress, I have got the clutch semi working, however it does not stop the back wheel spinning entirely. Only a combination of pressing the rear brake and pulling the clutch causes the back wheel to stop spinning, is this a sign of any particular fault such as stuck plates? The bike is currently on a bike stand with the back wheel in the air.

Yes I did, I also tightened them enough so that I knew the adjustment plate was not spinning, will have another play around with it over the course of the weekend.

Thank you I did not, but I seem to have everything in place stated there, could clutch plates possibly be sticking or something? The bike had been sat a while when I bought it

Was wondering if anyone can help, currently rebuilding an 87 MZ ETZ 250 and all has gone well aside from the clutch. The clutch is assembled and fitted and so is the left hand case and its components. However, when I pull the clutch cable and the retaining arm slides out of the worm, it feels as though it is not making contact with the clutch assembly as there is no pressure. Any suggestions would be very helpful as this is the only thing stopping the bike from working 100%!

hello. I have a odd problem with my 1988 suzuki dr125. after a good run around for a bit, and i slow the bike down and downshift to first, the bike will cut out and refuse to kick start. also after this occurs, it struggles to click into gears properly (i found this out as i attempted to put it into second to bump start) and the gearbox just seems very temperamental. so, i wheel the bike back to my shed and leave it for a while, it will start up no problems and drive /run well. could this to be do with overheating? (as it is prone to that) or is there something else? thanks