Tinkicker

Good call on the pump. They fail after about 20,000 miles usually. As you said, no point fitting new contacts when a chinese clone pump is very inexpensive. In case you did not realise.. When your new pump arrives and you fit it, if it is the same system as my VFR, it will only start cycling the pump when the ecm detects that the crank is turning. That is when cranking the motor over and it actually running. It will not cycle just by turning on the ignition.

Very first thing I do with any petrol injection fault is to put a full bottle of this in the fuel and run it till the tank is nearly empty over a few days. It is what the pros use.

Holy thread ressurection Batman. DT100 finally put to one side, time to pull the head and check the bore for damage before ordering a piston. Thankfully the bore has escaped with no apparent damage, certainly above the exhaust port. I will pull the jug tomorrow. I only stay in the conservatory for a half hour at a time in the winter. With it being cold in there, I do not want my breath causing a problem with humidity/ condensation. I can now order a new OEM std piston. I have been watching one for a few weeks. Since the rings are new and are just bedded into the bore, I will reuse those. Parts already arrived: Genuine mikuni main jet #130 as fitted as std. New mains. I could clean the old ones out, I doubt they are damaged, but while I have the motor apart... For the sake of a tenner for new ones. Gasket set. 175 wide small end bearing. Piston circlips. I will not bother disturbing the crank seals, just make sure they are squeaky clean. Holy piston. Thanks for the five mile / 3 hour push home. Undamaged bore. Thank goodness.

So it is August Bank Holiday 2023 and I have been playing with the jetting to get the top end right. It was over rich at wide open throttle. I looked at the 130 main jet. The 130 is the standard jet as supplied with the bike from new in the UK. However this jet is not genuine Mikuni. It is aftermarket. The bike came with an aftermarket 120 main. The experts on the yam enduro forum reckon that these old bikes rarely run right on aftermarket jets, like for like. Something to do with how different makers use different methods of calibration and numbering. Hmm so this could be why it is rich at the top.. So if I try the 120 that came with the bike. Fitted it, kicked it up and took it for a test ride. My word, I reckon on a 25% power increase. Front end lifting in first off the throttle and generally a lot more zing. It felt very much happier. Time for a full on top speed test. Wide open. 60 mph. Yippee. Then Bwarrrrrruurgh. Pulled over and tried the kickstart. It was like treading on a rotten tomato. Dammit, I know exactly what that is...... Did the long walk of shame home pushing the bike contemplating my idiocy for dropping from a 130 to a 120. It has to join the queue. I will finish the 100 before I get around to sorting this.

Had a look at the main beam issue and it was as thought. Yellow wire with single male bullet from switch disconnected from the headlamp main filament/blue indicator lamp double female connector when I fitted the lamp back into the shell. Two minute fix involving one screw. That bullet was the only possible explanation for losing both the blue light and main beam together. Tested and working fine. After two weeks laid up, bike started on second kick and quickly settled down into a reliable idle. Things are afoot in the lounge display case....

Budgets are good. It makes you get creative. It is easier to throw money at something than to figure out a way around the problem. Budgets should be spent in strict order. 1. Safety. No point restorng a bike that is unsafe to ride. 2. Reliability. You do not need a safe bike if it breaks down before reaching the end of the street. 3. Cosmetically. No bike looks good if it is getting pushed home with bent forks or a blown engine. Part of the fun of restos is researching parts from other models that may be identical. The NOS scalpers will look at a part from a CBR600, think it is a sexy bike and price accordingly. The same part may be fitted to a CD200 commuter bike with a slightly different part number and therefore perceived as not particularly valuable in the scalpers eyes. Also, parts may be discontinued for the original bike. Scalpers generally do not do their homework and advertise a part as from a honda benly for a tenner, not knowing it will fit a CBR600 that had they known, would have advertised it as such and charged £40. It helps to get to know the manufacturers part numbering system. For instance the Yamaha system is: 1T92633501. Wire - Clutch. 1T9 is the VIN prefix of the model it was first fitted to. In this case the US market DT100D. 26335 tells us it is a clutch cable. 01 tells us it has been modified from the original design once. The original will have ended 00. Wire - Clutch. A Brief description. The same cable may be fitted for many years on subsequent models of DT100 and different models, maybe some small road bike and part number will always be 1T926335 + mod 1 or 2 or 3. Yamaha cancel production of the DT100 but still want to use the same cable on another model. DT100 is no longer in play, so the new model vin prefix takes over. 3M12633500 - Wire - Clutch. 3M1. VIN prefix of a Yamaha RT100. 26335 tells us it is a clutch cable. 00. The cable has not been modified since it became prefixed to the RT100. This is exactly the same cable with different part numbers. If you are on a budget or looking for new but obsolete parts, knowing the part number system of the manufacturer in question can save you hundeds of pounds over buying from dealers or the price scalpers on ebay. You need a keen eye for detail and a wiilingness to do your homework. I probably spent 10x more time looking for parts than restoring the bike, but that is part of the fun.

He was quite a prolific poster and was in the middle of a restoration thread when he suddenly stopped posting in mid november. Hope he is OK. Anyone heard anything?

No one wants a master of the universe poster that never gets things wrong. Just post warts and all. That way if you get stuck, someone will chime in with a bit of advice. I was a motorcycle techie for 12 years and got my restos wrong all the time, much to everyone's amusement. Far better reading about problems, feckups and solutions than a " ooh everyone look how good I am" type thread. To start you off. Just finished.

I believe this this to be the correct frame colour for your CBR600F4. Honda paint code NH460M. Not tried it though. We love restoration threads. I have two on here myself. Dont forget we like lots of pics. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155474333315

I apologise for being so prickly. It is due to many, many new sign ups arriving here, asking one question, getting a long and involved detailed solution and vanish back from whence they came. All without even a thanks for often a lot of work on the repliers part, or acnowledgement that they even came back to retrieve it. It is incredibly rude and entitled behaviour. I am not saying in the slightest that that was your intent, just that you are unknown to us. You know they came back to secure their haul of answers by looking at the statistics. Answers posted new years day at 9pm. Questioner last visit without even bothering to comment at 10pm new years day, never to be seen or heard of again. Unless the questioner has put in a fair few contributions to the forum, many on here have now stopped giving in depth answers. If you had posted some anecdote or even just a silly joke to start making yourself a member of this community, someone would have probably come along and given you the exact answer you sought. Please take the time to join in with the community, it is a very interesting place.

Sorry. I get you into the ballpark. If you want an exact match, it is not my job to do the research. It is not my bike, it is yours. It is your job to do the research. I believe silver wheels is around RAL 7001. Your job from here. This is not a slot machine where you put in a request and get an accurate answer back with zero effort by yourself.

Thanks. Fingers crossed indeed.

Got an envelope stuffed with documents to send off to the DVLA tomorrow. Anyone who has done this, please double check to ensure I have not missed anything. Envelope contains. Covering letter. Completed V55/5 form, completed so far as I can. Much of the info required on the form is not relevent. Original NOVA Certificate. Pic of driving licence to prove identity. Original Dating Certificate from a DVLA approved source. Full on side pics of left and right side of bike pre restoration. Pic of VIN. Pic of engine number. Pic of left and right side of bike post restoration showing colour, graphics and all missing road equipment replaced, working and as original spec. Registration fee. Cheers.

Well it is back together. Of course it will never be done, there are always teething troubles and niggles that you feel could be done better. Case in point; headlamp main beam and blue repeater light are suddenly not working. Simple fix, the yellow wire from the hi lo switch must have got tugged and disconnected from their common junction when I put the reflector back in. It is the only possible cause, unless the switch itself suddenly went faulty, which is doubtful. It is what I said it would be from the outset, a 46 year old bike that has been preserved to last another 46 years. It will not be my problem then. Number of running roadworthy examples in the UK just went up to 26. It will never be and was never intended to be a show bike. It is a long way from perfect, the paint is laughable; just not worth putting the money into it. It would cost three times what the bike is worth to make it a show standard bike that unfortunately was never desireable enough to actually have a chance of winning. I hope everyone found it a most entertaining warts and all thread and more importantly, to maybe encourage some out there to have a go themselves. It is not an easy task restoring an almost 50 year old bike with long obsolete parts. It does not matter who you are, you could be a senior yamaha development engineer, and you will still have problems and have to find solutions, but one step at a time.... I hope this thread prepared you for them. Arrival at start of august 2023 Xmas 2023.

You absolutely missed my point. You were replying to somebody elses post about not relying on fuel stabilisers and giving a time limit on modern fuels in carbed bikes. You could have been construed as saying the post was rubbish, when in fact you were talking about your particular bike only. We have a duty to be ultra clear when we post because people who may not know anything about technicalities may well be looking in for advice. Your post about fuel additives invalidating the warranty and you not using them may be taken as that fuel stabilisers are a bad thing. They are not. The manufacturer does not know what you will be putting in the fuel and therefore if you added a " home brewed" stabiliser and it dried out the seals you are not covered by warranty. Its a win for the manufacturer. Your warranty is void with no risk to him. If your bike broke down due to stale fuel, guess what. Your warranty is void and you are going to have to cough up for the repair because it is not a manufacturing defect. Either way, the manufacturer wins. Of course he is not going to recommend fuel additives because he does not give a damn about your fuel going bad. Win win to him. It is important to understand who may be looking to your posts for advice.

I have a small ultrasonic cleaner that I use mainly for cleaning watch movement parts, but I have also used it for smaller motorcycle parts like carbs. They are very very good but not infallible. Certainly magnitudes better than a bucket and brush.

Absolute difference between a bike on carbs and a fuel injected bike. It is like comparing apples to oranges in the winter layup. Neglect your due dillegence on a carbed bike with modern fuel and you are in a world of pain.

Nothing better than having a quiet nod in the comfort of the back garden...

Wandered out to the shed. Uncovered the VFR and fired it up. Because the weather was quite mild for winter, she started up pretty easily without the usual cold weather histrionics. Warmed her for 20 mins or so, till the cases got hot and the fan kicked in. Nice n warm under the bodywork. Covered her back up and I will see her again around begining of Feb.

Rubbed second layer and applied superglue to fill the tiny imperfections. Rubbed that down and it feels ok. There are still some small imperfections but a few layers of primer and flatting down should see to those. If not, they are hidden by the seat anyway. Took it to spray some white primer on and had one of those sinking feeling moments. Picked up the 3/4 can of primer, shook it up, pressed the button and a lacklustre squirt came out. Cleaned nozzle, tried again with same result. Tried a nozzle I knew was fine. Same result. For some reason the can has lost most of its pressure. Another can will appear on wednesday. Turned my attention to the aftermarket rear lamp unit. It had red and blue wires, the blue being the brakelight and the red being the tailight. Ground is through the fender itself. Odd choice. The tailight feed on the bike is blue / white and the brakelight is green/ yellow. I looked at my stock of wire. I had green/white which is close enough to green/ yellow for someone else not to get mixed up in the future. Besides, the white will yellow with age. No blue/ white but had the blue already on the tail lamp. A quick snip, swap over and solder and we now have colours that are not confusing. When I tested the lights previously I had them reversed. I put blue to blue. The tail lamp was operated by the brake switches and the brakelamp by the light switch. I also soldered a dedicated ground wire to the bulbholder. Relying on a ground through painted parts is a very poor, penny pinching way of saving 50 pence by the manufacturer in my book. There is a ground provided from the loom for just that dedicated ground. Rear fender rubbed down. Gawd how I hate it... Tailight fitted to as close to orginal wiring colours as I can get with what I had to hand. Easy enough to be able to plug them in confidently, knowing it is correct. Dedicated ground fitted, plugged in and working.

Frame paint. Holts steel wheels. Engine paint. Holts silver wheels.

Rubbed down the first layer of body clag on the rear fender and applied the second layer. I hope that will do it. While waiting for that to harden, I proceeded to fit the rear brake pedal assembly. Bit of a fiddly job with the brake switch hook, it goes through a very tiny space between the swingarm and the engine. Barely enough room to pass it through. Will need to touch up the chassis paint in various places as it got scratched in the process,but no biggie. Fitted a temp ground between rear lamp and one of the inducator brackets ( appears to be aftermarket and grounds through the fender, just two wires) Don't like that idea, I will solder a dedicated ground onto the bulb holder. Time to try the lights... Yup. Light switch on. Tail lamp lit. Tried front brake. Yup brake light lit. Tried rear brake. Yup brake light lit. Its just that soddin body clag and paint now. I have made the first attempt after several strong arabica bean based beverages... Mixng such small amounts I got too much hardener in the mix. It was getting unworkable after about 30 seconds. That is why it looks pink. Brake lever assembly fitted and connected. Brake switch hook was a bitch. Needs some touch up work now. [/url] Quality Control Inspector keeping a close eye on the job to ensure no shortcuts. I have three on my case... Tail light lit. Both tail light and brake light lit together. Aftermarket lamp unit is not exactly sparkling quality. I think I will rewire it with the correct wire colours and make it a bit more fit for purpose.

My age old, sure fire way of preventing cold inner thighs is to stick my nose out the door, observe the mist coming from my mouth, shudder, withdraw back indoors and firmly close the door. My days of following single decker buses right behind the radiator fan at the back to keep slightly warm, having to keep grabbing another handful of throttle because the throttle grip kept slowly slipping closed inside my wax cotton overmitts, dealing with steamed up, rain spotted visors*, and waiting with teeth clenched for the first dribbles of freezing cold rainwater to seep through my crotch or down my neck are well and truly over. I admire you intrepid winter riders, but about five years of being a year round rider was enough for me. 80% of the time was fine, but those frosty, icy mornings, dark, windy and rainy evening rides home from work... No. Motorcycles are supposed to be fun. * Anybody remember V wipes? Absolutely no use with overmitts.

Thanks. But this is not a particularly in depth restoration in comparison to my VFR750 and DT175mx. Those were done money no object, wheras the DT100 not being a particularly sought after bike was done on a fairly restrictive budget. I have strong emotional ties with the VFR and the 175. I had a 175 brand new when I was 17 and a VFR brand new in 1997. I always knew I had made a grave mistake when I sold them to buy something else. A 250N Superdream in the case of the 175 and a Blackbird in the case of the VFR. Always regretted selling them. The DT100. I have no particular ties with them, but it deserves preserving. What a no expense spared restoration looks like.. Not blowing my own trumpet but the classic bike appraiser who came to value it reckons it is the best in the country that he knows of. I am certainly proud of it. Until I jetted it too lean and blew a hole in the piston last august bank holiday. Engine is coming out for repair sometime this week. VFR. Restored to ride as a brand new bike. Does not get used much at the moment, very little time, but I retire in six years and that is what it was built for.

Finished for chrimbo yesterday. Nursing an epic hangover, I took myself into the conservatory this lunchtime and pottered around a bit. Fitted the rear indicator brackets I made from the internal structure of my handbrace. I have no idea of the material, very odd. It is very light, I bet both brackets only weigh 4 grammes together, but appears to be stronger and more bend resistant than mild steel of the same dimensions. I thought it might have been titanium, but it did not cut or drill like titanium. Magnesium? Either way they are gratifyingly sturdy. Far better than expected. Needed quite a bit of force to press the double register bend into them. I did not bother to paint them because the indicators ground through them. I will see what they look like when the rear fender is finished and fitted. I will probably paint them then. I fitted Gr8uncleals switch toggle - fitted like it should. Thanks again Al. I have a selection of paint pens at work of different colours. When dealing with multiple shafts, spacers, clips, clutches and bearings you need to have a means of colour coding them to aid rebuilding after they have been sat waiting for the customer go ahead for six months. I thought to bring the red one home to colour in the toggle as it should be, but I forgot.... Flasher can arrived. Plugged it in and as the experts on here advised, it was obvious that the ground connection was shorting the power. Cut off the ground ( cut blade terminal off the can, not the wire ) and we now have working flashers. Brackets fabricated and rear indicators fitted. UnckleAls toggle fitted perfectly. Other indicator now has its dome nut. Starting to look like a motorcycle again.. Need to reroute the throttle cable according ti the good book. It should go behind the indicator. The metal elbow will need straightening a little to achieve that without introducing a sharpish bend in the cable.