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leaking fuel tank..


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Posted

well my plans for being in the convoy for Ride To The Wall, have come to an end..


it turns out i have a leak on the petrol tank..


offending article


http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg250/simonevans73/Tank%20repair/PIC01248.jpg


and what i found once underneath


http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg250/simonevans73/Tank%20repair/PIC01249.jpg


http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg250/simonevans73/Tank%20repair/PIC01250.jpg


http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg250/simonevans73/Tank%20repair/PIC01251.jpg


the paint had come off the area due to the fuel..


i peeled back the bodged repair..

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg250/simonevans73/Tank%20repair/PIC01252.jpg


http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg250/simonevans73/Tank%20repair/PIC01259.jpg


http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg250/simonevans73/Tank%20repair/PIC01263.jpg


you can see the hole/soft spot here..

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg250/simonevans73/untitled-1.jpg

after a bit of a clean up...


http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg250/simonevans73/Tank%20repair/PIC01262.jpg


http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg250/simonevans73/Tank%20repair/PIC01261.jpg


anyway halfords dont have chemical metal for petrol tanks, should be in tommorow, so work begins again tomorrow, with a fill, then rust proof the underside of the tank and a coat of hammerite black to prevent any further rust, for protection..

Posted

Cheers, Pete, just what i was looking for, can give the underside a coat of kurust tommorow, ready for the putty, and then paint,


bloomin typical, was thinking of taking the bike off road to do the underside of the tank (not that i knew it was like this...), and touch up frame etc, along with general maint, but wanted to do RTTW so forked out for tax and a new tyre, and then this happens,

Posted

It's always the way :roll: at least you've got another year's or six month's rent paid now and a tyre that you don't need to think about.


That JB Weld stuff is great, but it can be a bit runny at first so a good tip is to let it semi cure for a couple of hours (takes 15-24 to fully cure but is worth it!) so it's more mouldable and won't run.

Posted

thats good, saves me trying to force it into the hole... just kurust-ed the underside, so now waiting on the jb weld, should be here tomoz, so can give another coat of kurust if needed....

Posted

well halfords dont have what i was after, either they haven't replaced the nil stock, or its still in the back, fuggin typical, glad i used Petes advice, should have JB weld in tommorows, post, have kurusted the underside, which is now a nice shade of blue/black, (it colours as it reacts with the steel.. ).


one of the mechs at work suggested I braze it, A - i don't have access to a brazing tool thing, and B i like my eyebrows, as there's still a little fuel in the tank, (hence the tank being in the shed, not the house,)


http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg250/simonevans73/Tank%20repair/PIC01265.jpg


http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg250/simonevans73/Tank%20repair/PIC01264.jpg

Posted

I noticed one on mine the other day, was near a bike garage today so I asked him an he said it was the seam of the tank that is leaking. He suggested either the cold weld stuff that Pete said or a waxy resin that will fill up the gaps, I wish I was as casual as you were about takin a fuel tank off Walney, would have all the little quirks fixed on my bike by now!

Posted
I noticed one on mine the other day, was near a bike garage today so I asked him an he said it was the seam of the tank that is leaking. He suggested either the cold weld stuff that Pete said or a waxy resin that will fill up the gaps, I wish I was as casual as you were about takin a fuel tank off Walney, would have all the little quirks fixed on my bike by now!

Its not the seams, but a small hole, and this isn't the first bike i've had apart... started with a £70 GP100 way back in 1990, and swapped frames on my MTX50, after being sided by a car, most of my bikes have been cheap projects, so i have a handy set of tools...


overhauled a 1981 GS650 katana, the orignal one ED1... (before the GSX1000/1000.... ) last year, so quite handy with the spanners...


thank you.. :D :D

Posted

cheers, Colin, i'll see how i go with the JB Weld stuff, was looking for this but could only find copies, none of which mentioned petrol on the packaging...

Posted
one of the mechs at work suggested I braze it, A - i don't have access to a brazing tool thing, and B i like my eyebrows, as there's still a little fuel in the tank, (hence the tank being in the shed, not the house,)

 

that mech is gonna kill somebody with advice like that, an empty petrol tank + welding / brazing = bomb,


some people say fill em with water i think that would affect the weld, i was told at college when i was a apprentice that the correct way to do it is to pressurise the tank with argon gas, that way oxygen is taken out of the combustion triangle,


if the epoxy you have used fails simon try this ( task specific )


http://www.partridges.uk.com/catalog/granville-petro-patch-petrol-tank-repair-compound-35ml-p-6449.html


i think M+P or MPS also sells it

Posted
that mech is gonna kill somebody with advice like that, an empty petrol tank + welding / brazing = bomb,

if the epoxy you have used fails simon try granville petro-patch

 

He did say to leave it to vent off any residual vapour, or to pressurise with car exhaust (carbon monoxide replaces the oxygen),


typical, I have bought a product and then there are so many alternatives... i'll test out the JB weld, as it says it is petrol resistant, and see how i get on, its only a hole the size of a pen nib,


a mate has told me he could silver-solder, or braze the job, but the tank would require a paint job afterwards.....

Posted

pity you are gonna miss RTTW, if you dont get it fixed on time, if you get it fixed but cannot make that dig yer tent out and come to the silverdale rally with us, there's loads from barrow going.

Posted

a mate has told me he could silver-solder, or braze the job, but the tank would require a paint job afterwards.....

 

The hole is underneath? So just slap some underseal on it after your mate brazes it. Sorted 8-)

Posted

Bogof, i'm going to try an off the shelf repair first, rather than brazing it, and having to have a full respray etc, but hadn't considered underseal for the underside, was gonna just paint it.. Thanks...

Posted

Really Frankie . Try the Quick steel. Wire brush the area. Chop a piece and mix it. Press it home. Cures in 20 mins and is almost bullet proof. Should be 30 mins tops. Been using it for 20 years. 8-)

Posted
Really Frankie . Try the Quick steel. Wire brush the area. Chop a piece and mix it. Press it home. Cures in 20 mins and is almost bullet proof. Should be 30 mins tops. Been using it for 20 years. 8-)

cheers colin, i'm gonna head out to Dalton motor spares, there one of those little motor shops that hold everything and have a clue about there uses, see if they have some.. the jb weld has arrived, but it may just get added to the tool kit, but it does say its ok for petrol tanks...


will keep you updated.. (off to look for video feeds on the RTTW..)

Posted

right, went with the jb weld in teh end, it states its ok for petrol tanks, and was easier to work with than a blob of putty..


mixed the two amounts and kept mixing to give it some consistency (15-20mins), then applied to tank, went on easily and i'd timed it just right..

 

repair.JPG.fa4544f66e1deb903c98e3cd0374843d.JPG

 

left to cure for 24 hours, then put the tank on some newspaper and checked for leaks.. no leaks, woohoo..


so painted the underside with hammerite black, and then underseal..

 

undersealed.JPG.e292ab2daeaa6912451756d6f66a6ba4.JPG

 

also took the chance to touch up areas of the frame and the radiator (not fins) whilst i was at it..

 

619681568_frametouchedup.JPG.dd5c52860ef9567c8941d071f5f401c9.JPG

 

tommorow, i'll put the tank back on, and start her up.. after i've got some fresh fuel...

Posted

J-B WELD is packaged in two tubes. One contains liquid steel/epoxy resin,

 

Same difference. Epoxy resin or epoxy putty. Araldite is the same sort of stuff. It's all down to the additives.


Fingers crossed it holds 8-)

Posted
J-B WELD is packaged in two tubes. One contains liquid steel/epoxy resin,

 

Same difference. Epoxy resin or epoxy putty. Araldite is the same sort of stuff. It's all down to the additives.


Fingers crossed it holds 8-)

looking good so far Colin, it was more that it was a thinner paste than a blob of putty, that made me go with it, but essentially a hardener and a paste...

bike fires up, but getting a low fuel reading, which should be remedied tomorow when i put in another 5 litres.. should be above the reserve... so fingers crossed..

Posted

That looks like a very tidy job there Frankie, hats off. I've got some stuff similar to what Colin's mentioned - it's also two parts but comes in a single stick (lighter grey on the outside and a darker grey core). It's OK for jobs where no major stresses or heat are expected. Generally the longer something takes to cure the "better" it will perform (hence why I went for JB Weld on a couple of jobs because it had one of the longest cure times I could find!). In this case I think you hit the nail on the head by saying there seem to be a lot of products that would do the task equally as well.


Incidentally, what're those orange cable tie jobs you've got on your fuel lines? They look reusable - could this be true? If so then I need some!

Posted

fuel/brake line clamps, re-useable, and i put them there to stop any rain/crap getting in the lines..., theyre plastic and adjustable, so wont cut through the line, and a godsend for some jobs.. incidently, got mine from halfords..

 

sykes-pickavant-brake-and-fuel-line-clamp.jpg.42b1a2b14a2a693f9ffc67ef9e418113.jpg

 

Checked tank for leaks again this morning, dry hand, jobs a good'un

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