Rear suspension... complicated much?!?!

[Guest]

Hi all! I need to adjust my bikes rear shock/suspension. Its too soft. Well, its not too bad for just me, bt i want to carry passengers and currently it nearly bottoms out with a heavy pillion! I mean, i'm heavy enough! lol, a whole other person has gotta be stressing it...

Well, heres the article i found...

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto ... index.html

I'm confused as to what to change! I just want something simple, a screw to turn that makes it how i want it

Can anyone dumb this down for me?

I'm not too arsed about a nice comfy soft ride, i just don't want to ruin my bike by stressing the suspension!

Thanks all

EDIT: I found this article to be MUCH better...

One quick question, it says when i sit on the bike there should be some sag, like it shud go down 30mm or so. But, what about for pillions?

I dont wanna have to be changing suspension everytime i wanna ride 2 up.

[cyberwolf]

if it bottoms out/soft could be the shock is knackered! i never adjusted the shock on the gpz i had it was at standed setting and i was alway 2 up on the bike never bottom out on me.

but someone be along who knows more then me lol

maybe this help, part 2 for Setting the sag help http://www.themotorbikeforum.co.uk/view ... ion#p40379

[Guest]

It should have an adjuster collar that you adjust using a c-spanner (bike toolkit)... if you whack it up full for pillion use, if its still naff, its probably needs overhauling, or better you can get an aftermarket from Hagon, and they can set it up for you..

you might want to consider progressive front springs, and a heavier weight oil in the forks, as well.

 

this is a small c-spanner being used, but its the same (larger), and locates in the slots, then turn.... this is not the shock, picture shown for c-spanner and use clarity..

Edited March 15, 2010 by Anonymous

[blakeatron]

Just remember to count how many clicks you turn it - and turn it back by the same ammount after.

It can really change the handling having it set hard when your on your own.

Or just dont take fat chicks

[duane69]

Also tyre pressures and suspension go hand in hand...

[Guest]

Apparently the rear shock on my bike is new, had to be fitted for last years M.O.T... So i assume it is aftermarket

And cyberwolf, maybe you're not quite as heavy as me

And Frankie, i can't quite work out what that is there in the pic? is that the bottom of the shock?

[Guest]

if you look at your shock there will be a knotched ring for adjustment, you need to fit a c-spanner (in the picture, like shown) and turn up or down, to increase or decrease damping.

you will need 2 settings one for you, and one for pillion,

yes the shock goes down further with 2 up, or a heavy rider, hence adjusting .....

silver bit shown here is the adjuster and the steps are what increases/decreases compression.

[Guest]

Thanks a lot WF, will give it a try today, gotta see if i can find a C spanner first! Not sure if my bike has a toolkit squared away in it somewhere...

While you're here WF, could you answer this for me? Saves making a new thread and filling up the forums... I'm gonna be fitting a 12v socket this week (when it arrives), i've bought this; eBay - 12v socket and i don't want to wire it to the battery... I've heard i can wire it into the power cable to my heated grips? My grips only work when the ignition is on (i don't know how the last owner did it), so would it be ok to use that wire? with an inline fuse? Any ideas how i'd go about doing that?

Christ, i owe you several pints already lol.

[Revvin Kevin]

You should set the rider sag to use approx. 1/3 of the shock and forks total travel. The preload settings for one up and two up riding will be different, you could compromise by setting the preload midway but it won't be optimised for either then. You may also need to increase compression damping when riding two up to help prevent the shock/forks bottoming out.

If the shock still bottoms out after increasing the preload, you'll need to lose weight and/or fit a stiffer spring.

[Guest]

........ i don't want to wire it to the battery... I've heard i can wire it into the power cable to my heated grips? My grips only work when the ignition is on (i don't know how the last owner did it), so would it be ok to use that wire? with an inline fuse? Any ideas how i'd go about doing that?

find the wires to the heated grips, they will be quite meaty, you can either go for scotchloks, which you insert the heated grip wire, and the new wire, then press the blade down with pliers which cuts through the wire to make a connection, or cut the wire and make two feeds off it.

it shouldn't matter which is which, as these devices are designed to work pos-neg or neg-pos,. inlike LEDs which only work one way..

If your unsure, bring em along to the rally, and i'll fit them there. just make the mounting hole is done....

[Guest]

The last thing i wanna do is waste your time at the Rally lol, kinda like working whilst on holiday! I will see what i can do first

Thanks again mate

[Guest]

The last thing i wanna do is waste your time at the Rally lol, kinda like working whilst on holiday! I will see what i can do first

Thanks again mate

ten minute job with crimps and pliers. and working on a bike, ain't like work...

[Guest]

and working on a bike, ain't like work...

 

Quite

[Gamer]

Suspension

shocks are designed to handle raider and pilon both or just a rider

you adjust spring by:

- maikng it longer = softer

- shorter = stiffer

Adjusting relates only to your ride style - so to make ride identical solo to pilon you should make suspension harder

If you can handle different bike handling while riding with pilon - just be sure of tyre pressure.

Grips

If this works with power on only than it is connected via ignition switch, and putting additional stress (power) will make it's life shorter = replacing ignition switch at some point