darn blast and.......

[Nogin]

Anyone ever removed a Data Tool Alarm?

Looks like either my Fob is fooked or my Alarm is fooked as the new batteried in the fob have made no difference, I simply cannot switch the bloody off! It just goes off and re sets its self.

This alarm is a pain at the best of times, I think its easier to just remove the whole thing.

BUT

I have no idea what model it is, have no paperwork for it, no wiring diagram nothing. I'm wary if I rip it out the bike won't go. However the idea of smashing it up with a hammer on the garage floor is very appealing at the moment LOL

All advice welcome, right I'm going to the fridge for another beer before I get the hammer out to it!

[Stu]

it will have two immobiliser circuits the trick is to find them remove the wires for the alarm/immobiliser and re join the wires that where cut for the immobiliser side

instructions would be useless really for removal

what does the fob look like?

[Nogin]

Well its either a System 3 or System 21 that much I have found out...

found these instruction on line...Will have to give it a go...

Its joining the list of things that are f**ked in my home along with the Toilet, the roof that leaks etc... im a tad pissed off.

• If your alarm is still functional, put it in service mode (ignition on, press and hold small button for 2 seconds, ignition off). (Or do as I did and cripple the bike’s electrical system completely.)

• Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.

• Take off the rear seat cowling

• You should see the main siren unit cable tied to the subframe

• Pull out the rear LED from the light unit

• Pull out the blanked indicator wires that don’t appear to do anything

• You should be able to follow the unit’s main wiring loom in to the bike’s wiring loom. It’ll probably be taped up to hell.

• Remove as much tape as you need to expose the whole of the alarm’s wiring loom

• You should see two obvious halves of wiring, and about 10 thin black wires in total

• Most of these are just “drop-ins” – that is, they just join the existing wire so the alarm can trigger the e.g., indicators – the join should be covered in electrical tape, and the wire it is connecting to should be in tact

• Two of the wires will be set differently (one in each half of the loom) – ignition and power – the original wire will have been cut and then soldered on to thin black wires, and the other half of the original wire will also be soldered, the join is probably covered in heat shrink

• For each of the “drop-ins”, snip the black wire out of the join, and then wrap the join with electrical tape – be careful that you just snip the black wire – not the original wire!

• For the other two wires, you’ll need to rejoin them – they should be coloured in such a way so as to be obvious which one needs to be soldered where

• Locate the two ends of the original wire(s), and work out how you’ll rejoin them. I left the soldered join in place, and cut the black wire so that it would be long enough to rejoin to the original wire

• When you’ve cut the wires out, you can remove the whole alarm unit

• Then solder the original wires back together. Cover the join in heat shrink or electrical tape.

[Stu]

shame you cant get it going as your not too far away and the bridge toll is now free i would have suggested you come for a ride and i would have removed it for ya

[Nogin]

Cheers Stu, thats very much appreciated however its going no where!

Ill be stripping it all down on Saturday, the instruction I found online are pretty straight forward so hopefully I get it all removed.

[Stu]

it is simple enough

you need a wiring diagram ideally

just watch out for the immobiliser circuits as they could have cut one wire in two places so they are harder to find well this is what they should have done!

[Nogin]

Yey alarm gone and all is working fine!

[Guest Hodgy]

Well done

[Nogin]

Thats for the advice and support chaps...