Rik398 Posted July 16, 2012 Posted July 16, 2012 Well, my charging issues have a cause now... the stator. Ultra low resistance on all phases, and all exactly the same. Started the bike up to measure voltage, have 20.5 volts on one phase, and 1.6 volts on the other two phases. It is fried. So... my question would be why? What could cause this. No joke, this is my 4th alternator in the last year and a half. This means, If i were to buy new instead of rewinding, triumph would be wanting at least 2k a year off of me for stators. Last time it went, I replaced the regulator, the battery, and the stator all together. The whole charging system was rewired, and taken directly back to the battery to simplify things. Every connection was checked, and triple checked, and even now, every connection is in perfect condition. So why has my stator died? I literally can't think of any other reasons. Battery is in good health, regulator is a brand new MOSFET unit suggested to me by a triumph forum, and also okayed by a triumph dealer. I ask myself how this is happening. Its not even the fact that it has been rewound, as it has been done by two different companies, and still no job what so ever, and I would expect a rewound stator which passes all tests on delivery to last more than 3 months. Crazy. Quote
gravelrashedaprilia Posted July 16, 2012 Posted July 16, 2012 The stator failed on my Aprilia, (ok don't laugh it was at 40,000 miles) and thanks to the Aprilia forums it was traced to a brown connector which is a weak spot. I put a second hand stator in and cut out the connector = end of problem. The point being, have you asked on any Triumph specific site, as I've found if theres a known fault, owners will have had it and found the cure. Quote
Rik398 Posted July 16, 2012 Author Posted July 16, 2012 To be fair... I never had a single problem with the Aprillia I had And yeah, there are varying explanations. The prominant triumph forum, suggested upgrading the regulator to a MOSFET unit, and wiring the regulator output direct to battery. This is what I did, and replaced every part of the charging system at the same time, to ensure the problem did not happen again. New regulator, new stator, new battery, and new wires and connections. Averything ran brilliantly. It was even okayed by a triumph mechanic. So all was well. Until now. I was also once told by a triumph guy (as some people may recognise from previous posts) that 04/05 Triumph's using the stator and rotor that my daytona uses (Daytona 600, Daytona 650, Speed tripple 04-05, TT600) Have a bad rotor. The guy said that the magnetic rotor that goes over the stator is too strong, which buggers up the stators too quickly. There is a website offering an upgraded stator and rotor system to solve this problem, and yep... I tried that too. Is it possible that my bike was just build on a Friday or something... there really does seem no answer to this problem. Quote
gravelrashedaprilia Posted July 16, 2012 Posted July 16, 2012 To be fair... I never had a single problem with the Aprillia I had And yeah, there are varying explanations. The prominant triumph forum, suggested upgrading the regulator to a MOSFET unit, and wiring the regulator output direct to battery. This is what I did, and replaced every part of the charging system at the same time, to ensure the problem did not happen again. New regulator, new stator, new battery, and new wires and connections. Averything ran brilliantly. It was even okayed by a triumph mechanic. So all was well. Until now. I was also once told by a triumph guy (as some people may recognise from previous posts) that 04/05 Triumph's using the stator and rotor that my daytona uses (Daytona 600, Daytona 650, Speed tripple 04-05, TT600) Have a bad rotor. The guy said that the magnetic rotor that goes over the stator is too strong, which buggers up the stators too quickly. There is a website offering an upgraded stator and rotor system to solve this problem, and yep... I tried that too. Is it possible that my bike was just build on a Friday or something... there really does seem no answer to this problem. Well...You've sorted your own problem.. Buy another Aprilia Quote
johnnyturnip Posted August 1, 2014 Posted August 1, 2014 Did this get sorted?. As I'm having the exactly the same problem but not changed rotor yet. Quote
Rik398 Posted August 1, 2014 Author Posted August 1, 2014 Sold the bike to a breaker as a runner in the end. Was sad but the amount of money piled into getting it working became a bit of a nightmare. I have added a link of what I ended up using to try and fix it. Annoyingly (as with everything) more information has been added to this since the I sold the bike, and some new things to try that I did not are there. So I would say use this. The guy who wrote it knows his stuff, and there are some rather detailed tests done, such as measuring stator temperature with and without the upgraded rectifier. Also (You will see this in there) but the solution they eventually came up with, actually turns out to be Triumph's solution for the new daytona 675 which aparanately can also suffer. http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple- ... grade.html Quote
johnnyturnip Posted August 1, 2014 Posted August 1, 2014 Ha I was reading that earlier.I don't mind if I knew I could get it sorted but it seems quite a few people have given in. I'm stuffed for a bike if I can't get this sorted out. And it's stressing me out.It's going to triumph for a dyno and a map which was booked in before the stator went again it looks like I'm goin to have to take a big pot of Vaseline.I'm getting really fed up of it to be honest I've spent a few quid now and I thought I was on top of it.I appreciate you replying cheers!. Quote
Rik398 Posted August 1, 2014 Author Posted August 1, 2014 Yeah know how you feel. Like i say it was sad to see the bike go but i just couldn't put any more cash into it. I gave in at one point and let the dealer have a look but they did not really come up with any useful suggestions either. As my bike is only means of transport, i hate to think what would happen if i decided to add heated grips or something. Beautiful looking and handling bike, and mechanically strong as an ox, but this is an issue that seams to plauge them, and bo solid answer yet. I replaced the whole charging system and still did it, which was final straw for me. Quote
johnnyturnip Posted August 1, 2014 Posted August 1, 2014 Yep exactly my thoughts it's a constant thought when riding or is it gonna start etc etc...It's my only means of transport aswell the walk to work is depressing especially seeing other bikes ride past.After its been in to triumph I'm going to have see what I can do to be honest i'm struggling financially aswell but if I thought it was going to be a fix I'd be happy to take the hit. but knowing its not 95% going to rid the problem.Also I have a wife that's chewing my ears about it lol... Quote
Rik398 Posted August 1, 2014 Author Posted August 1, 2014 Worst thing is that though it is a common issue, and an issue that renders the bike useless, there has been no recall on it.Like you, i would not mind spending a stupid amount to fix it, the rest of the bike is worth it, but its spending the money and knowing its 50/50 at best. I replaced the whole lot on one go on my final attempt. Fitted and repositioned the mosfet regulator so had more air flow, new wiring direct to battery, new stator and rotor, and still went. The only thing left that seems worth a try now would be the new series regulator that they found in that forum, as it actually reduces the temperature of the stator itself. So if you were going to have another attempt at it, that would be where I would go. I would also get rid of the crappy alarm (if you have one) and stick a switch in to the headlights so you can run with them switched off when it is light outside. Quote
johnnyturnip Posted August 1, 2014 Posted August 1, 2014 Yep datatool 3 that's one of the things that's been getting on my tits.I'm getting a blanking fuse for it but triumph are charging a tenner if I knew what fuse to buy I'm sure it would be around a quid.It's really put me off the bike when to my eyes it's mint and when I get a good go on it I can't fault it.The other thing is I have to pay somebody to fit the parts as I am learning but not comfortable to do this. If I have to buy a whole new system and go through it again and the same happend I think I'd cry in the middle of the rd...I will keep this updated and let you know how I get on. Quote
Dav3y Posted August 2, 2014 Posted August 2, 2014 What's happening to the windings, are they shorting and burning out or just going high resistance ?In Theory these shouldn't break easily unless something on the bike is overloading them or they are made of poor qualty materials.Surely if you purchased new part from Dealers they would be obliged to replace the part if it fails again within 12 months ? Quote
Rik398 Posted August 2, 2014 Author Posted August 2, 2014 In my case, they were just regularly burning out. Take the stater out and its black and stinky, about 3/4 of the way around. The dealer part is very, very expensive. Many views of why it happens, too strong a magnet in the rotor, too high a temperature in the engine where the stator lives, bad regrec frying them. It has been found that using a better series reg/reg keeps the temperatures of the actual stator lower, which, to me, along with possibly using a different weight oil, may solve the issue. Quote
Dav3y Posted August 2, 2014 Posted August 2, 2014 http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple- ... grade.htmlClearly a design fault with such poor failures.Don't know if the link is of any help johnny at the top of the post. Has some checking proceedures you can do if you have a meter Quote
johnnyturnip Posted August 2, 2014 Posted August 2, 2014 Cheers all going to put a meter on it in the morn.What I don't understand is why some people can get a few miles on before it goes where as other peoples go in a matter of weeks. I just don't get how it can be sorted or even if it can I'm absolutely shocked how a proper solution has not been found. I know it shouldn't but it's really put me off triumph in general.So what if it's gone again scrap the bike sell as runner for peanuts???..My best option is if triumph can come up with something but I'm not holding out much hope. Quote
Rik398 Posted August 2, 2014 Author Posted August 2, 2014 Triumph's solution for the new 675 Daytona, is a MOSFET regulator. It didn't work when I tried it, but, it may be worth having a word with triumph / the garage and see if they agree. If they fit it, and it dies, then I would assume there would be some form of warranty on it. Quote
johnnyturnip Posted August 2, 2014 Posted August 2, 2014 I had the stator rewound by west country windings. I phoned them to arrange sending it off and as soon as I said what bike it was for he said sorry no warranty on those bikes.And I got the r-r from electro sport..I've allready thought about relocating the r-r and had a word with the garage that fitted the charging system they said do it but can't guarantee it will work.Cheers Quote
johnnyturnip Posted August 3, 2014 Posted August 3, 2014 Just put the meter to the battery.12.8Dropped down to 11.7 when switched onStayed at 11.7 when reved and held at 4000 for a few seconds and it started dropping. Quote
johnnyturnip Posted August 4, 2014 Posted August 4, 2014 Spoken to triumph they said its been known to be a problem in the loom putting more resistance in the stator.Which obviously means a new loom. It's getting picked up soon I'll keep this updated. Quote
Rik398 Posted August 10, 2014 Author Posted August 10, 2014 Did you actually speak to triumph or a triumph dealer? Yes the loom putting too much back to the stator does sound like the issue, as that would overheat it and is what causes it to turn into a black charred mess. Which again leads me to beleive that the RR that those guys on the link I sent is probably a good idea, as they actually measured stator temps and found them to be less. Also, another rather important thing to try, is when it goes back together, just cut the loom out of the equation. Don't use the original wirirng, just go from rr direct to battery (with a fuse... again its on the link thing) which would make it more efficient as it does not need to go through the yards and yards of original factory stuff. The worrying thing is, that I went direct to battery and still had the issue, which means that it probably is not the factory loom causing the issue. However, at least you had a response from Tirumph with an actual suggestion. Be interesting to see what would happen if you actually just told them to fix the damn thing, and gaurentee it will work. If triumph themselves can't fix it with any guarantee, then, well, not good is it. I would love for you to fix this and see what it was. I would buy another in a heartbeat if I knew it was sorted. Quote
Rik398 Posted August 10, 2014 Author Posted August 10, 2014 But yeah, I would not bother with a new loom. I would go the direct to battery root. That way, the charging system is isolated from the loom. Cheaper as well no doubt. But then if triumph ar ewilling to guarentee it in some way, then just go with what they say. Quote
johnnyturnip Posted August 10, 2014 Posted August 10, 2014 Cheers rikIt's in a triumph dealer at the min they've said it's the reg/rec that's gone but no burn at the connections it was an electro sport one. They are puttin me a new one on said its mosfit technology think its electrex not a triumph part says it runs cooler. Not much else to update really other then looks like it will go again in a matter of months/weeks. I'll look at missing the loom out when I get it back maybe I could do it myself. It looks like I'll have to learn to do all this myself if I'm to keep the bike which I really want to do. Quote
johnnyturnip Posted August 10, 2014 Posted August 10, 2014 Oh and they did say the warranty on the electrex reg/rec is quite good. Quote
Rik398 Posted August 10, 2014 Author Posted August 10, 2014 Yeah a MOSFET one is what you are after so that sounds all good so far. Yeah missing out the loom is something that you can do yourself. They may try and wiggle out of warranty if you do it though so could be worth asking them if they could just run it direct to battery. Sounds good so far though. Fingers crossed. Even if you could get a good 6 months between them going it would be better. Quote
johnnyturnip Posted August 10, 2014 Posted August 10, 2014 If I'd have thought on I'd have asked to put it straight to battery. I've just rang them and they said its done but the person that was dealing with me doesn't work Sunday's so I'll ring back in the morning. I've just been reading back over the triumph forum link. It would be really helpful if I knew somebody local that had a intrest and good knowledge on it.Cheers Quote
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