rossibizatdi Posted September 30, 2012 Author Posted September 30, 2012 You're in a similar position to me then, although I had just got my licence. I got a CBR F4 and commuted to work on it. Hands used to get freezing and it was only a 20 min ride although my gloves were crap lol. Quote
Mrbarry Posted September 30, 2012 Posted September 30, 2012 Can't wait to get going on it, my mate rode it home for me all I can do is sit on it and change the oil I won't be commuting on mine tho I have 2 cars for when it's cold and wet haha Quote
Stu Posted September 30, 2012 Posted September 30, 2012 Its £10 a wheel fitted and balanced to loose wheels round here! I can fit my own it is a pain in the arse I would rather drop the wheels and take them in everywhere round here is free fitting to loose wheels if you buy the tyres off them but balancing is extra usually about £3 Quote
GazW Posted September 30, 2012 Posted September 30, 2012 Spoked wheels aren't balanced?At least I never had it done when I paid a garage to put new tyres on my CG. Never had any issues Quote
Mrbarry Posted September 30, 2012 Posted September 30, 2012 Any rotating or reciprocating mass can be balanced, weather it needs to be, should be or will be are all a different matter tho. I would advise wheels are balanced to make riding safer as the suspension has enough to do without adding the job of dampening wheel vibration to its list. Also at resonant speeds it will cause rapid component wear to bearings etc. Quote
rossibizatdi Posted October 1, 2012 Author Posted October 1, 2012 I had my CBR for about two weeks before I passed my test and could ride it.Was the best feeling ever riding it for the first time to work to show my mates. They are unbelievably fast haha! Quote
Mrbarry Posted October 1, 2012 Posted October 1, 2012 Well I'm told it goes well! The CBF600 I'm learning on has usable power but it doesn't exactly impress me with power, both of my cars are quicker than that. It's 75bhp tho and 200kg, CBR600F4 is 110bhp and 170kg. I thought it was an F3 but after looking for crash bungs discovered its an F4. Quote
Guest Posted October 7, 2012 Posted October 7, 2012 I have a 2001 CG so hopefully I can help a bit. First of all I had a similar squealing noise from my rear brake when first setting off in the morning which was cured by the above advice of sanding down the leading edge on the brake shoe.Don't even remind me of the enclosed chaingaurd, full of old chain oil that had turned into thick black sludge. I'm sure I were the first person to clean it in 10 years.As for removing the front forks, once the front wheel is removed and the top/bottom punch bolts are undone, grab one of the forks with both hands and try and turn the stanchion. Eventually it will start to move down. You could also put a socket on the top fork bolt and hit it down with a hammer. Put a bit of grease on the stanchion when refitting to make it a bit easier.Also be careful ordering a new chain. Nearly every kit lists the 2001/2/3 M model as having a 14/41 sprocket and 116 length chain which was completely wrong for my bike. The correct ratio was 15/36 and a 112 length chain. Purchase a chain for the W model which will be correct.However check that yourself first by counting how many teeth are on the rear sprocket. When I fitted the 14/41 sprocket kit I had to be in 3rd to do 20mph... Quote
rossibizatdi Posted October 13, 2012 Author Posted October 13, 2012 Hi TomH,Thanks for the advice re the forks and chain. I've actually just got my tyres back from the shop and fitted the wheels to the bike, on my own which was tricky witht he back wheel.I've not ridden the bike yet as haven't fitted my indicators but now I have another problem....My speedometer isn't turning round in the hub. When I turn the wheel, the little screwdriver looking thing inside the cylinder where the speedo cable plugs into should turn round, and was doing before but now it isn't. The reason is obvious from looking inside the brake unit. There is a little worm gear (which is actually the bit I'm talking about, it has a screwdriver type bit at the head of it) and this should mesh with another little gear that sits around the axle if what I'm thinking is correct.http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq73/rosschambers1987/IMAG0900.jpghttp://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq73/rosschambers1987/IMAG0904.jpghttp://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq73/rosschambers1987/IMAG0905.jpgI can't say whether the garage have lost this gear or I have or whatever but I now just need to make sure I get the right part. Check out these pictures by the way, the little yellowy plastic bit was actually wedged into the worm gear underneath it which at first made me think that this was the part that turned the worm gear but upon closer inspection this is just a piece of plastic that has broken off something (probaby the speedo gear that was there in the first place).Anyway, I'm trying to see if I can find the part I need on the internet but not having much look. I don't know what the thing even looks like.Can anyone help?Thanks,RossI have a 2001 CG so hopefully I can help a bit. First of all I had a similar squealing noise from my rear brake when first setting off in the morning which was cured by the above advice of sanding down the leading edge on the brake shoe.Don't even remind me of the enclosed chaingaurd, full of old chain oil that had turned into thick black sludge. I'm sure I were the first person to clean it in 10 years.As for removing the front forks, once the front wheel is removed and the top/bottom punch bolts are undone, grab one of the forks with both hands and try and turn the stanchion. Eventually it will start to move down. You could also put a socket on the top fork bolt and hit it down with a hammer. Put a bit of grease on the stanchion when refitting to make it a bit easier.Also be careful ordering a new chain. Nearly every kit lists the 2001/2/3 M model as having a 14/41 sprocket and 116 length chain which was completely wrong for my bike. The correct ratio was 15/36 and a 112 length chain. Purchase a chain for the W model which will be correct.However check that yourself first by counting how many teeth are on the rear sprocket. When I fitted the 14/41 sprocket kit I had to be in 3rd to do 20mph... Quote
rossibizatdi Posted October 13, 2012 Author Posted October 13, 2012 I think this is the bit I need, it looks like it's metal.http://scooterspares.org/clickpic/xl_cg ... 829%29.jpg Quote
rossibizatdi Posted October 13, 2012 Author Posted October 13, 2012 Look what I just found in the boot. Bloody hell!http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq73/rosschambers1987/gear_zpsebc1bc28.jpgAm I missing anything else because I'm sure in the previous pictures it shows some metal washer'y type things.Not getting messy again today, only just had a shower and got cleaned up so gonna do it tomorrow probably.Cheers,Ross Quote
rossibizatdi Posted October 13, 2012 Author Posted October 13, 2012 Right, I got mucky again lol. Took the front wheel off and put in the plastic gear, seems to be working now thankfully.The bike is now fully fixed and ready for action (touch wood) medium distance ride tomorrow to test. Quote
Guest Posted October 13, 2012 Posted October 13, 2012 There should be 2 very thin metal washers like that picture, but don't worry about that, I forgot to put them back on with the speedo gear the last time I had the front wheel off a few thousand miles ago with no problems with my speedo. Quote
rossibizatdi Posted October 13, 2012 Author Posted October 13, 2012 Yeah I think those washers that you mention were stuck on to the top of that plastic gear with gunky oil I've got some of that copper brake grease at my parents house so when I get chance I think I'm going to lubricate the brake bits as I think they are a bit stiff.Need to run the new tyres in, better make sure they're scrubbed clean before I set off tomorrow. Quote
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