Fully/Semi Synthetic engine oil

[Nublust]

Time for my first oil change. Turns out it's not as simple as I'd thought it would be .

I've seen a lot of arguments between the use of semi/fully synthetic engine oil.

Fully: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motul-7100-Motorcycle-Oil-10w40-2-Litres-Fully-Synthetic-/251728359982?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3a9c2df22e

Part: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Castrol-Power-1-4T-10W40-Part-Synthetic-Motorcycle-Engine-Oil-2x1L-2L-/151264293932?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item23380df42c

For the sake of £4.61 I'd rather get the better stuff...unless it's all just a marketing ploy?

Thoughts?

[Stu]

What does your service manual tell you to use?

[Fozzie]

Always follow what the manual says

Fully synth - It is more slippy and thinner than regular oil, this does mean it gets around better but it is more expensive and basically does the same job. It is however designed and made for purpose.

Part synth - It already has some fully synthetic stuff in there, it is actually a type of mineral oil with fully synthetic additives thrown in to the mix. It does its job by a matter of nature, with some engineering thrown in.

What this means for you?

Most engines that are worn in, will see no difference using part synth, if you keep the changes regular and to the book at the least. If you have a high performance engine, with fine tolerances, then the thinner, and more slippery oil is the best way to go.

I used part synth in a GSXR with no ill effects over 20k miles. Same for my Hondas and so on... I didn't do enough high RPM riding back then, I used the bike for commuting and a bit of fun.

Hope this helps, I work in the oil industry so it's quite prudent I know myth from fact

[Nublust]

The manual just says 10w40, neither that nor the haynes manual I have specify fully/semi. Not sure if that means I'm fine to use either?

[Fozzie]

The manual just says 10w40, neither that nor the haynes manual I have specify fully/semi. Not sure if that means I'm fine to use either?

 

Just seen you have a Kawasaki ER6F in your bike description.

I had one, I used 10W40 Motul 5100. It's a quality oil, and seems to do the trick. Ran an ER6F myself on that stuff, never missed a beat on it. I'd say it was a good oil for the bike although the ER does get hot easily.

[Stu]

Yes either will do

Some specify fully synthetic

[Chrissb6]

A very good friend of mine who builds Kawasaki race engines for a living told me that fully synthetic oils are not suitable for motors with a wet clutch

[Glorian]

Cant remember which one mine takes.. but i bought one put it in and realised it said i needed the other stuff.. Sooo... just gonna wait till it gets low drain it out and fill it with the right stuff it has ran fine for over a month with it in now.

[fq-craigus]

Have a perk online you should find details on oilneeded. Using incorrect oil may have underlying problems that you may not notice. Some will say they have used both with no probs and they either havnt noticed the probs because they are deep in th engine and take some time to develop or dont push the bike hard enough to notice things like clutch slip.

Using wrong oil can cause wet clutches to slip, on some bikes more than others.

I would take a pretty good guess you need semi synth oil

[Glorian]

Well its getting quite low anyhow.. Will empty it out and fill it up with the right stuff this weekend =)

[Nublust]

I decided to try out the fully synth and see how it goes. Worst case I'll just change it again I guess. Thanks for the help guys .