mmalik Posted June 5, 2015 Author Posted June 5, 2015 is that 11v resting? ie nothing on? Yes, everything switched off. Give me 20 mins, am going to borrow another meter. Will test again and post result. Quote
mmalik Posted June 5, 2015 Author Posted June 5, 2015 the voltage should stay the same when connected Just realised what a knob I am. Did not change meter to volts. tested r/r again and now reading 30v when revving engine Quote
Stu Posted June 5, 2015 Posted June 5, 2015 30v coming from a new reg/rec thats enough to blow the bike up!! Quote
mmalik Posted June 5, 2015 Author Posted June 5, 2015 30v coming from a new reg/rec thats enough to blow the bike up!! Lol have I got it wrong again hahaha Quote
Stu Posted June 5, 2015 Posted June 5, 2015 read here http://www.genebitsystems.com/david/Mot ... /index.htmlook for the bit on measuring DC voltage just to make sure your measuring it right although if you wasn't then the chances are the multimeter would have popped by now Quote
mmalik Posted June 5, 2015 Author Posted June 5, 2015 Lol I got that on multi meters. How would you test r/r when it is all plugged in etc. Quote
Stu Posted June 5, 2015 Posted June 5, 2015 depends what you want to test? the output? so we already know you are getting 60v minimum in which is good what you need to test now is the output you should have two red cables coming out of it put the red probe to one and the black probe to the battery negative this is with all the wiring connected up if you can get in do this for both red wires Quote
mmalik Posted June 5, 2015 Author Posted June 5, 2015 depends what you want to test? the output? so we already know you are getting 60v minimum in which is good what you need to test now is the output you should have two red cables coming out of it put the red probe to one and the black probe to the battery negative this is with all the wiring connected up if you can get in do this for both red wires Excellent, I will do this tomorrow and report back. Thank you Stu Quote
Stu Posted June 5, 2015 Posted June 5, 2015 suzuki's are well known for shit wiring on the charging systems I modified mine on my TL1000s to get the full 14 volts at the battery as I was getting a lottle over 12.6v! just enough to charge it! 4 bits of wire and a few connectors saw 14v at the battery shame your so far away I would have popped to lend a hand Quote
mmalik Posted June 5, 2015 Author Posted June 5, 2015 suzuki's are well known for shit wiring on the chargingat systems I modified mine on off my TL1000s to get the full 14 volts at the battery as I was getting a lottle over 12.6v! just enough to charge it! 4 bits of wire and a few connectors saw 14v at the battery shame your so far away I would have popped to lend a hand Yes it is a big shame but that's life. Is that why I am seeing 13v at idle. Did not seem to charge if I Rev the engine. Quote
Stu Posted June 5, 2015 Posted June 5, 2015 could well be or it could be that you have a lose connection and under vibration its not letting enough juice through! this is why you check at the reg/rec to rule out the wiring if there is a big drop from the reg/rec to the battery reading then you have a wiring fault Quote
mmalik Posted June 29, 2015 Author Posted June 29, 2015 Hi All,Sorry for not replying. Family emergency etc. Well, I have decided to join the AA just in case of breakdowns. Been riding bike for the last 3 days without any hiccups, starts first time on the button. Think it was a dodgy R/R and battery after all, will keep my fingers crossed.Would like to thank you all for your help and advice, especially you STU.Thanks again. Quote
Stu Posted June 29, 2015 Posted June 29, 2015 No worries Thanks for the update I was only thinking about this the other day Quote
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