RantMachine Posted June 16, 2015 Posted June 16, 2015 Edit: Might as well check the condition of your cush drive rubbers while you're there, too. Only takes a second. Yes... i'll get right on checking those things i know everything about... These things!http://images.wemoto.com/full/CUSH_DRIVE/10008120.jpgWhen you get the back wheel off, you'll find that the sprocket isn't mounted directly onto the wheel hub; it's bolted onto a different part (seen it called a sprocket hub?), and the cush drive rubbers fit into the sockets on the interior faces where the wheel hub meshes with the sprocket hub. Basically they're there to reduce stress on other components of your drive train. Mine were in pretty decent nick so I left them alone, but from the amount of broken down rubber caked onto the inside of the hub, it looks like the previous set were used for a bit longer than they should've been Quote
Glorian Posted June 16, 2015 Author Posted June 16, 2015 I see. Will definately check them i can see it now..*takes wheel and sprocket off*"Oh those are the things ollie mentioned"*puts new sprocket and wheel on* Quote
RantMachine Posted June 16, 2015 Posted June 16, 2015 If they're falling apart, replace them. Ebay seems to have full sets for your bike for as little as a fiver.If they aren't falling apart, leave them alone.Job done! Also:Yay, you have an Avatar at last! Quote
Glorian Posted June 16, 2015 Author Posted June 16, 2015 I'll get some rubbers frm WHS smith with some bluetack to hold them on?And yes i thought almost 2 years after registering i should get one Quote
Fozzie Posted June 16, 2015 Posted June 16, 2015 Won't argue free advice ^^ I've done it once before but that was aaaages ago, not sure what to do about the rear brake? 1. Take off the sprocket cover and the chain guard.2. Put the bike in gear, 1st or 2nd, your choice. This will hold the back wheel and sprockets still.3. Undo the nuts on both sprockets, use technique, and not brute force. If it doesn't budge, don't just keep pushing harder and harder on the wrench. Hold it on steady and give the bar a firm smack to shock and loosen it after liberal use of WD40.4. Don't remove the sprockets, just loosen all the nuts. Loosen the chain as much as possible.5. Pull the front sprocket off, and free it from the chain. Put the new sprocket on the front with the old chain back on.(bare with me)6. Now break the chain.7. Free the rear caliper from the bike, should just be two bolts and the whole thing will slide up and away. I tend to leave it hanging, but if you can support it against the swingarm or tie it there do it.8. Take the back wheel off, replace the sprocket and loosely tighten the nuts checking the cush rubbers don't look deformed (they shouldnt be). Put the back wheel back on and refit the brake.- If the cush rubbers fall out for any reason, doesn't matter what order they go back in, just put them in the right way round.9. Get the new chain out and the master link, feed it onto the back sprocket and run it around the back sprocket.10. Now! The fun bit, connect the new chain to the old chain at the top of the rear sprocket with the new master link (loose fit, don't rivet it), and pull the old chain with the new chain so it runs over the swingarm and around the front sprocket. Disconnect from the old chain and in one move you've pulled the old chain off the sprocket while putting the new one on. 11. Connect the master link with the seals placed to match all the other links and rivet with a two twist, half off move. Basically twist the riveter in so it pushes the pin in, then back off and go in again. It ensures it goes in evenly. 12. Don't push the pin all the way in, leave a couple of mm's exposed and flare it. Then tighten all the nuts up properly to the right torque level, put the covers back on and you're done Quote
Glorian Posted June 16, 2015 Author Posted June 16, 2015 Nice little guide Don't have a torque wrench so will tight AF do it?Also i planned on cleaning under the bike and behind where the chain sits while it's all off so may modify your step by step a little. As for the pin, what do you mean by "Flare" it ? Will i also need to adjust teh swingarm by tighetening it as much as i can (where i normally adjust the chain) before i put the new chain on and will i need to trim some extra links off ? Quote
Stu Posted June 16, 2015 Posted June 16, 2015 count the links on your chain and your new chain they should be the same you will have to loosen the adjusters so chain will be slack the last job is to tension the chain correctly flaring the link is to stop the side plate coming off they are supplied with what they call a soft link....this is your joining link and it will have a hole in the centre of each of the posts on the link ...your chain tool mushrooms/flares these to stop the side plate coming off Quote
Fozzie Posted June 17, 2015 Posted June 17, 2015 Read the manual for torque settings.10nm is basically a nip above finger tight, maybe quarter of a turn. Or it is for me at least.20nm is light work with a wrench.30-40nm is a good snug fitting with the wrench, tighten it up a good couple of turns.You can see where I'm going, 100nm+ Give it a very good tightening. Your arm will strain a bit.200nm, you are both arms on the bar pushing down with a hell of a lot of force.Get your halfords trade card and treat yourself to the torque wrench there. One with values between 40-200 will be best. It will be one of the best purchases you ever make as it should last a life time...I may have broken one once but I didn't reset it after use... So don't be stupid like me Quote
RantMachine Posted June 17, 2015 Posted June 17, 2015 The 60-300 is actually cheaper than the 40-200 on the trade card, and you aren't paying for an overlap if you later get a 8-60. Not that the extra 100nm whacked on top will ever be of use on your bike, but could come in handy if you ever do work on your car. Longer bar too, which comes in very handy. But the main perk is it's about a tenner cheaper. Quote
Glorian Posted June 17, 2015 Author Posted June 17, 2015 I think my dad has one that might cover around 100nm so will see if i can locate that Quote
Glorian Posted June 30, 2015 Author Posted June 30, 2015 Ordered the chain and sprockets. It's a sunday planned job doesn't sound to tricky tbh.. Would anyone recomend adding additional lubricant to the chain or just leave what comes on it? ALso i know it's an age old debate but dry or wet lube, i tend to use dry. Quote
Stu Posted June 30, 2015 Posted June 30, 2015 Its up to you if you add more lube Hmmm some say dry lube can cause a grinding paste with the road grit attached Quote
Glorian Posted June 30, 2015 Author Posted June 30, 2015 Hmmm some say dry lube can cause a grinding paste with the road grit attached I can say i notice my chain looks a lot dirtier since i moved to dry.. Might switch back to wet now my dry has run out. Quote
Fozzie Posted June 30, 2015 Posted June 30, 2015 I wouldn't call it wet, more super sticky but I use Muc-off endurance chain lube.It's fully synthetic with ceramic additives, and a UV overlay so the sun can beat down on it without it drying up, or breaking down.I've been using it for the last year now and personally found it better.Apply it directly to the seals, and it makes no mess at all, plus I have found the most recent chain and sprockets I've had did not develop a tight spot, and wore more evenly. The second chain will tell me whether the lube contributed to the even wear or if I was just lucky.Halfords sell it, so get the trade card out Quote
Glorian Posted June 30, 2015 Author Posted June 30, 2015 Fair does, can't beat a good recomendation You say you aply directly to the seals? I've always just run the engine in first gear oncenter stand and sprayed it where it curves around the sprocket. then let it run for a minute. Quote
eastanglianbiker Posted June 30, 2015 Posted June 30, 2015 Fair does, can't beat a good recomendation You say you aply directly to the seals? I've always just run the engine in first gear oncenter stand and sprayed it where it curves around the sprocket. then let it run for a minute.i take it you havent seen the vid clips of others doing that and it costing them a finger or two chomped up in the chain and sprocket,the engine should never be running while working on the chain "> Quote
Glorian Posted June 30, 2015 Author Posted June 30, 2015 I never clean it with engine running. I turn it on and hold the can about 6inches away from the chain and spray it on. I apply it like i'm putting ketchup/hp sauce on a bacon roll. Heavily Quote
Glorian Posted July 10, 2015 Author Posted July 10, 2015 All done, took a lot longer than planned, but all looks good, only problem i think the clutch pin is misaligned as the clutch is not disengaging properly. GOnna get the cover back off tomorrow and sort it. Quote
Guest Posted July 13, 2015 Posted July 13, 2015 I had to replace the rear braked on my car which involved taking the complete hubs off. That had a 36 mm nut on it. The manual advised doing it up to 200 ft lb. I did it up F***ing tight. When I took the car back to the garage for its mot I asked them to retighten the rear hubs. They just said they do them f***ing tight as well. Quote
GaryJM Posted July 13, 2015 Posted July 13, 2015 I think my dad has one that might cover around 100nm so will see if i can locate that Machine Mart do ones for about 25 squid that go up to around 240nm Quote
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