Peugeot speedfight 2 50cc 2009 model

[Codey]

Hi guys just looking for some advice I recently brought a Peugeot speed fight 2 with a 70 kit installed and a aftermarket exaughst the bike came from a old mechanic so I assume everything was done right apart from the fact that the bike would never idle but would ride fine, the bike ran perfect topping the speedometer out every time till around 2 weeks ago we had some heavy rain and I was unlucky enough to be out at the time so I had to drive through massive puddles, the next day my bike is no where near as fast but will randomly jolt up to 40mph from 20 then drop back down to 20 after, I’ve dried my air filter and all electricals including cdi and have tried adjusting my carb but nothing seems to work, also when the bike is cold it has no problem with speed it’s only when the bike gets warm any advice would be appreciated thanks!

[RideWithStyles]

hello codey.

 

Yes well if the kit and exhaust has been changed but if a carb or ecu hasnt been adjusted or flashed to the new go faster bits , the idle can be problematic but at least you think to run fine throughout the rev range or at least the cvt is masking the holes in the rev range which tend to happen.

jolt from 20to 40 to 20 you mean the actual speed of the bike changing or just the speedo clock does?
Is it a slow progression in change or sudden with no interaction of that you do to make it behave differently?

when you say massive puddles...how massive are we talking?

If its physically damaged, Sounds like water may have damaged or at least jammed the cvt somewhat or possibly sucked water to the engine.

is there water in the engine oil? It will be milky looking in the window or dip stick

if not Id be looking at sensors associated with those parts or the clock as if that isn't getting the right signal it can have a brain fart.

 

Edited November 3, 2023 by RideWithStyles

[Codey]

34 minutes ago, RideWithStyles said:

hello codey.

 

Yes well if the kit and exhaust has been changed but if a carb or ecu hasnt been adjusted or flashed to the new go faster bits , the idle can be problematic but at least you think to run fine throughout the rev range or at least the cvt is masking the holes in the rev range which tend to happen.

jolt from 20to 40 to 20 you mean the actual speed of the bike changing or just the speedo clock does?
Is it a slow progression in change or sudden with no interaction of that you do to make it behave differently?

when you say massive puddles...how massive are we talking?

If its physically damaged, Sounds like water may have damaged or at least jammed the cvt somewhat or possibly sucked water to the engine.

is there water in the engine oil? It will be milky looking in the window or dip stick

if not Id be looking at sensors associated with those parts or the clock as if that isn't getting the right signal it can have a brain fart.

 

I believe the carb has been up-jetted to adjust for the 70 kit as it was going extremely fast for what it is but i belive the ecu is stock

 

The actual speed jolts from 20 to 40 then back down in only guessing at 40 as the Speedo doesn’t have enough time to even reach up to the actual speed before it goes back down and this all happens very fast, i will be at full throttle when doing this as since the flooding it has usually been going around 20-30 at full throttle then will jolt up and down again

 

I will check the engine oil tomorrow and post a update and check the sensors, thank you for the reply and advice!

[megaross]

Check the plug and coils and the relays for water ingress.

 

And the CVT belt as has been said.

[RideWithStyles]

If its quite sudden speed change (like its putting the brakes on for you or suddenly feels like its dropped agear) and mechanical sounding clunking or grinding or harmonics whine id be looking at the cvt.

if its gradual slowing down or speeding up by its self with no interaction from you its more likely electrical unless a cable or housing or like that for the throttle/carb is at foul play?

Edited November 9, 2023 by RideWithStyles

[Codey]

On 09/11/2023 at 07:50, megaross said:

Check the plug and coils and the relays for water ingress.

 

And the CVT belt as has been said.

I’ve had all of the plugs off and dried them all out and have checked the cvt and there was some water in there I’ve dried it all out, now it’s still jolting but it will go a lot faster and when it’s at low revs will jolt and drop a lot, if I’m going around 30mph it will jolt but no where near as much as before and will continuously gain speed it was like this for around a week of been going around 15 miles a day on it and would ride like this, I’ve come to go on it today after being sat for a day inside of a garage and it’s bogging then cutting out completely and is really hard to start again after I assume this could be my piston semi seizing but I’m not sure why this would happen?

[Codey]

On 09/11/2023 at 09:09, RideWithStyles said:

If its quite sudden speed change (like its putting the brakes on for you or suddenly feels like its dropped agear) and mechanical sounding clunking or grinding or harmonics whine id be looking at the cvt.

if its gradual slowing down or speeding up by its self with no interaction from you its more likely electrical unless a cable or housing or like that for the throttle/carb is at foul play?

It is quite sudden, I’ve dried out the cvt and all electricals as they was a bit wet but it was riding a lot better still jolting but only at low speed when going around 30mph and higher it would jolt a tiny bit but continuously gain speed, I’ve come to go on it today after being sat for just a day I’ve  rode it around half a mile before it’s started bogging then cut out and taking a while to start up after, I assume this to be a problem with my auto choke or my piston not getting enough oil causing it to semi seize(correct me if I’m wrong please)but I’m not sure how this would randomly accrue?

[RideWithStyles]

If it was piston it would be dead dead or in bits, ahhh just double checked and its a two stoke version...

shall we chat about what oil youve been putting in and how much? Does this have a oil autofeeding system? If so how much has it been using to fuel ratio? 

[Codey]

3 hours ago, RideWithStyles said:

If it was piston it would be dead dead or in bits, ahhh just double checked and its a two stoke version...

shall we chat about what oil youve been putting in and how much? Does this have a oil autofeeding system? If so how much has it been using to fuel ratio? 

I haven’t replaced the oil since I’ve had it as it came full and from a mechanic so I didn’t even double think it, after some research i believe it has a electric auto pump and the oil has not gone down a lot since, also Ik this sounds stupid but how do I go about draining my gearbox oil from the engine as It doesn’t have a dip stick to check the oil quality and the drain screw is right at the back would I have to get the engine off?

[RideWithStyles]

Do you understand the two stroke engine? Not sounding silly just to make sure we're on the same page...
Two stoke oil needs to be fed with the fuel additive (oil) this is either done directly mixing the oil in the petrol tank or in a separate container that the bike syphons out of for you that might need adjusting or cleaning out. it should be about 3 percent oil to fuel, so how many miles has it been since up had it? 

the gearbox oil drain plug should be at the back of the casing next to the brake disc.

If you believe the book its either fix and not to be replaced or with my thought every couple of years or 8000miles or so.

[Codey]

25 minutes ago, RideWithStyles said:

Do you understand the two stroke engine? Not sounding silly just to make sure we're on the same page...
Two stoke oil needs to be fed with the fuel additive (oil) this is either done directly mixing the oil in the petrol tank or in a separate container that the bike syphons out of for you that might need adjusting or cleaning out. it should be about 3 percent oil to fuel, so how many miles has it been since up had it? 

the gearbox oil drain plug should be at the back of the casing next to the brake disc.

If you believe the book its either fix and not to be replaced or with my thought every couple of years or 8000miles or so.

I’m not the best but I’ve had a few mopeds I’ve fixed and have some knowledge, my bike has a separate container for the oil so I don’t have to premix, the bike has had 11,500 miles so I’ll clean the oil tank and pipes out today, also would I have to take the engine off to drain the gearbox oil?

[RideWithStyles]

Cool good .
How many miles have you done with the bike (how many fill ups?) anf how much 2strome oil has it used out of 1.3ltrs so far?

 

No it doesnt have a dip stick or window just miles and age it should be changed.

It would make sense to change it if you can, if you don't know if its done you might aswell make sure.
No the bolt (decent sized one) should be at the back of the drive shaft sticking out level with the bike next to the brake adjuster, you can just siphon it out if you want with a bendy pipe and a syringe or bendy pipe and one way valve, like a vacuum brake bleeder kit. To fill back up (120ml capacity) fill it up level with the drain plug casing (till it flows back out) and thats it.

if not engine at fault lack of oil? Then is the belts, pulleys, bolts all correctly torqued? 

 

[Codey]

21 hours ago, RideWithStyles said:

Cool good .
How many miles have you done with the bike (how many fill ups?) anf how much 2strome oil has it used out of 1.3ltrs so far?

 

No it doesnt have a dip stick or window just miles and age it should be changed.

It would make sense to change it if you can, if you don't know if its done you might aswell make sure.
No the bolt (decent sized one) should be at the back of the drive shaft sticking out level with the bike next to the brake adjuster, you can just siphon it out if you want with a bendy pipe and a syringe or bendy pipe and one way valve, like a vacuum brake bleeder kit. To fill back up (120ml capacity) fill it up level with the drain plug casing (till it flows back out) and thats it.

if not engine at fault lack of oil? Then is the belts, pulleys, bolts all correctly torqued? 

 

About 7 or 8 fill ups mate not sure how many miles I’ve done with it myself and I’ll have a look at changing the oil then pal thanks I did top it up  but I’m not sure the quality of the oil that was already in it and yes mate all torqued

[Tinkicker]

Try a new drive belt...