hardleydavidson

Nice one thanks!!!!

4 Stroke, straight gears

I have the users manual but it's very much, "you turn on, you ride, you have happy life"

Just checked it's the 139fmb not the 139qmb

That's the one, modelled on the Honda C50 I say Kinroad but it's more of a Kin-uki-umph-lera

A small one from a foreign country that doesn't have a great reputation when it comes to bikes. Kinroad XT50 QT2

There's definitely fuel getting to the carb as I fitted clear fuel lines and can see it flowing freely through the fuel filter. Possibly is a plug somewhere, the connectors on the solenoid do look rusty but it turns over so I'm guessing the starter is getting enough juice.

I have tried that but think I might be doing it wrong, pulled the plug but didn't connect it anything metal on the engine, no spark which led me to think it might be the earth. I'll try it tonight but my gut instinct is there's no spark, maybe a loose connection on the CDI or possiby an issue with the shutoff switch connection?

Hi, This is really frustrating, the bike was working ok and would start on both the electric start and the kick, Having replaced the tank and fitted a new fuel line it will kick over but not start. It has been sitting for quite a while so I've cleaned the carb and the jets, the fuel is definitely getting to the carb, I've also cleaned the spark plug and checked there is no corrosion on the earth terminal. The solenoid was making a horrendous machine-gun like clicking but I put this down to not enough juice in the battery. After a recharge the clicking has gone and it turns over but doesn't run. I also tried a bump start, engine sounds very bassy and dies as the bike loses momentum, never really starting. In desperation I've also pulled the air filter. Can anyone think of something I may have missed?

Nice one thanks!!!!!

I have a Chinese bike. They do rust - a lot, the bolts and screws are made of plasticine, the wiring is done by Mr. Magoo on LSD and replacement parts cost more than a whole new bike. Having said that. If you like tinkering and fettling, finding inventive ways to repair things and fancy spending a lot of time in the garage then I highly recommend them. It'll keep you occupied for hours.

Hi, I have a Gilera Cougar tank and need to run a fuel line from it to an inline tap. I've managed to find a nut that will fit the fuel port on the tank but it's the wrong thread (bsp) anyone know what thread I should be looking for?

Glad I found out cheers!

Thanks, shouldn't be a problem though?

Hi, I've recently purchased a new front brake/master cylinder and the chamber is considerably larger than the old one, would this cause an issue? I need to change the brake fluid when I fit it but will the larger chamber insert more force?

Does it run then stop when the tap is open? Could be incorrect float position, I had this, it will run off the fuel in the carb then when the tap is open the carb floods. Or it could be a vacuum issue in the tank not letting fuel get to the carb

Thanks chaps, Alas I don't think it has a guarantee, had some success last night with the aid of some needlenose pliers and a scalpel but it'll take a while to get the lump down to a size I can remove it. I was thinking along the lines of an inline filter, the petcock has a filter but it still lets particles of rust through which in turn get stuck in the jets. Do you think an additional filter would solve the issue temporarily or would it affect fuel flow?

Really big ball, of rubbery goo. So a while ago I treated my very rusty tank and managed to clear the inside of rust but, not having put any fuel in it it quickly rusted again. So, having de-rusted for a second time I decided to go all out and buy a tank sealant kit (I won't say which one), followed the instructions and cleaned the tank with the product supplied, used the metal prep as per the guide and then added the sealant. All looked well and the tank looked coated, wiggled it every 15 minutes or so to ensure the coating was even and, when it looked like it had solidified enough not to move left it for the 90+ hrs it said it would dry. Well, looked at it yesterday and there's no coating at all, just a solid pool where the mixture had sunk to the bottom of the tank and hardened, managed to free it but now I have a large hard rubbery lump of goo floating around the tank. And it's started rusting again. Any ideas on how I get this out? Anyone know where sells cheap tanks?

Yes that's exactly the thing but I need 7/8 not 1" guess I could use a shim Yep that's what I'll do, nice one

Could it be contaminates in the fuel clogging the pilot jet? that would starve the engine in low revs.

Hi, I'm swapping out my old chinese rusty as hell handlebars for some Triumph ones however, the old bars have welded brackets to take the indicators and speedo. I searched high and low but I cant find any brackets or adapters that would suit. All the 22mm ones I have found would fit the bars but the indicators would be sticking up or down, what I need is for the holes for the bars and the indicators to be on the same plane (if that makes sense). Anyone seen anything like this, it's pretty hard to explain

Thanks, new shoes it is then, glad I didn't ride it like that.

Finally got round to removing my heavily oxidised rear wheel and cleaned it up but in taking off the rear brake drum the pads aren't attached to the shoes, they look in good condition and fit perfectly but just aren't stuck to the shoes in any way. I'm not too familiar with drum brakes is this normal? do I need new shoes/pads?

As per your suggestion, used wet and dry and then some plain old Autosol, nic esprkly new lookin wheels. Ta

Anyone have any good tips to de-oxidize/clean/polish aluminum wheels? I've tried a few things but for all the buffing and cleaning I don't seem to be getting anywhere