Fozzie

When you push the lever when its jammed up does it go back down easily? If so its the return spring. If it jams then I would suggest dropping the gear box out and replacing all the bearings and make sure the drum isnt binding. Then it should run smoothly Its a big job but it feels good once you've done it.

I shall now copy and paste what the Haynes manual says about your bike... On the specific problem etc, this is exactly how its laid out in the book minus the (see section 6) rubbish. Doesn't go into gear of lever doesn't return 1. Clutch not disengaging 2. Selector fork(s) bent or seized. Often caused by dropping the machine or lack of lubrication. Overhaul the transmission. 3. Gear(s) stuck on shaft. Most often caused by lack of lubrication or excessive wear in transmission bearings and bushes. Overhaul the transmission. 4. Selector drum binding. Caused by lubrication failure or excessive wear. Replace the drum and bearing. 5. Gear change lever return spring weak or broken. 6. Gear changer lever broken. Splines stripped out of lever or shaft, caused by allowing the lever to get loose or from dropping the machine. Replace necessary parts. 7. Gear change mechanism stopper arm broken or worn. Full engagement and rotary movement of selector drum results. Replace the arm. Jumps out of gear 1. Selector fork(s) worn. Overhaul the transmission 2. Gear groove(s) worn. Overhaul the transmission 3. Gear dogs or dog slots work or damaged. The gears should be inspected and replaced. No attempt should be made to service the worn parts. Overselects 1. Stopper arm spring weak or broken 2. Gearchange shaft return spring post broken or distorted. My educated guess on the matter would indeed be that you changed the clutch recently and herein lies the problem. Does the clutch bite very quickly as you let go of the clutch or is it immediate? I've seen gear changing problems occur before due to this simple thing.

A dinky little CBR125 engine causing you that much hassle!! Id have the engine out, on a bench, in pieces, in an evening from work. Then a couple of evenings or a good rainy weekend day to get it totally apart and back together again! I do actually have a haynes manual for one of these bikes as well. Though its ranged in the 2004-2007 model. I'll have a look in that and trouble shoot for you. Will report back laters

What he said... Basically are you just swapping the fork oil (because its gacky and old) Or are you changing the fork and dust seals? If just swapping the oil then you need to pour it out and put 500ml (its ml not cc aint it?) back in. If you are doing the fork seals then you need to put upto 584 to 592ml in. So aim for 588ml and that gives you some lee way either way. I hate taking apart forks so enjoy

Buy this one and take the top end off it and put it on your one? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/xj600-motorcyle-e ... 3cb70f7788 Can't argue with £50

Drill it out and tap it? It could make a decent bike! And I am yet to see pictures of this thing! So before you contemplate anything else.

Too right

It sounds fairly nackered but I can't tell Lets have a gander of what we have here. See if it needs replacing or just general maintainence.

It sounds odd to me that one of each cylinder the coils control isn't working. I would point the finger back at them as something clearly isn't right. Check all connections and make sure they are on right, as it sounds like somewhere along the line something isnt connected properly. Also you note that cylinder 3 and 4 have a common wire coming out. Why do the other 2 cylinders not have this and what purpose does the wire serve? Lets get her fixed

Passed 31/10/2007 Hadn't been 17 for 2 months

Oh hush hush It cant be more than £100 to buy a decent chain and sprocket set off Wemoto? When you get a bigger bike and the bill is twice that for a chain and sprockets your jaw will hit the floor!

Well played Too loose will shred your sprockets as well I might add. A dry chain heats up more and stretches a lot more. I dont use Torque wrenches, I've stripped bikes and never had a problem.

I noticed my 125 4-stroke singles would work more smoothly and with a bit more throttle responce when I fitted an iridium. This is sounding like a wrong gap!

Mine did that funnily enough... Was the crank case seals. Cheap part. Expensive to have it done at a garage. But first check everything else, so make sure the plug is good, make sure the exhaust is good, make sure you have got the right mixture, make sure there isnt an electrical fault like the timing being out on the spark. Is the bike juddering or is it just coughing when you hit a certain rpm. What is the current set up? Derestricted standard, restricted standard or tuned at all? Need a lot of info as I had one of these and know every nut and bolt of the thing. You give me good answers I can pin point the problem

Start easy, check the plug! Put a new one in there, preferably an iridium one.

Get over to a Honda garage and show them what you need or a picture, they literally have everything. So it shouldnt be too difficult to get the parts you need and considering what it is, its a cheap fix. If not get on ebay and buy a second hand set of clocks and then swap the good parts into your existing clocks

As far as i know, CG's never had Tacho's. Just speedos... Can you just confirm what this clock tells you so I can go off that. Revs or speed?

Have you checked the kill switch? Some bikes turn over fine with it but arent pumping fuel in...

Gilera and the Derbi were the exact same, so same engines even if replicas. It sounds like it needs a dose of new fuel with some cleaner in there to flush out the carb, a new iridium spark plug and... Check your tyre pressures!!! If they have dropped then it wont go as fast anymore so get it checked.

Aye Im fed up with a few people I have to put up with day in day out. When working I act sensible and try to give a good impression. Then theres these bunch who take the piss and constantly wreak havoc. They dont do their own work, they moan endlessly when they are in the best situation you could hope for in this current climate. That and its been a bad few days tbh so f**k it.

Its just one of those things you have to live with... Swap the oil out for some new fresh good stuff and you may see an improvement. Fresh oil tends to help out as the formula hasn't degraded due to age or heat so it lubes everything up as it should.

50 miles and you will be done, but the tyre is usually ok for any road stuff after about 10 miles of casual riding. Or if you want it done quick, go tearing down a straight keeping to the speed limit of course, brake late and hard to build up the heat in the tyres and then lean smoothly and apply a bit of power. On a dry warm day you will have no problems, it will scrub them in nice and quick and you will have a bit of fun. Its what I do and it seems to do the trick

Dan and TheWife Techno BB iwannagofast Northern Monkey Bex (possibly and maybe + 1) Remy (+ maybe two friends) CobbZ (+ possibly TheSadie) DeeJay Susieque+rennie Boothy (if i get a 125 in time) craig mojobanana Decor58 Yorbandit+1 f4113n Suzilew Takanta Jixerman vicki+1 and a half Guy + (maybe Gary) Danny-B- Spafe nman1 Horseynat30101 +1 (maybe) Grumpy Old Git Wannars125 + 1 depending on date eastanglianbiker depending on the mrs health Bullet5 (depending on family events) Cruz +1 (subject to date) Ingah - maybe (depending on the date and the location and if the stars are correctly aligned - i.e. whether the CB500 is working or not) MHarrison94 (depends on the date) Mighty Mariner + 1 if back from Germany PhilGale +1 maybe, depending on time and location (not been bothered with other thread) Stu & Trace Chris, depending on date (work/holiday etc) and location (if I can be arsed to get there ) mattyb depending on date Jakey_boy Jin Megawatt and a mate Fozzie3000 Im in

Razz the fook out of it for about 20 miles straight, not from start. Let it warm up and then ride through town and then get somewhere you can open it up a bit. That way it heats up in town and then when you get out onto more open roads and open it up you've got it running fast and its warmed up and the oil is circulating freely. The white smoke is normal. My CBR600 does that and it dies down after 5 to 10 minutes. Think its just moisture being kicked out or extra moisture from the air drawn in when the chokes open.

http://www.superbike.co.uk/imageBank/s/Speedycom.jpg You need a thumb brake connected to the rear brake. They are very very expensive though so I would only get one if you are going to have the bike for a long time and are going to use it often. Though I can use the rear brake ok when I stand on the pegs on some of my previous bikes. Its difficult yes but you get used to it. Just keep practising and find a good system would be my advise of choice for you.