Fozzie

I had the old shape and the new shape and they had different types of shock absorbers. I assumed this might make them different but I would imagine the part will fit and work. I doubt if there were any differences this would cause any adverse effects. I have pick and mixed parts here and there a few times and nothing ever went wrong!

I don't think it will as the bike was made smaller in 2006, but match pictures to the one you have. If it looks right then fit it My opinion is that it wont fit though.

Then my apologise. I wasnt on a high horse, I was on a really bad day. It seemed malicious as I opened up to peeps to get what looked like being laughed at for being a bit weak. Which in my state of mind then set me off on an angry spree. With it being laughter mixed with the "rat" comment when I thought it clear I was quite gutted over it. If you called me a wimp and told me to man up I would have taken it light hearted as thats what Im used to and recieved as jokes. The only time I have been laughed at over a pet that died it was very much malicious so you have to forgive the fact I took it in that sense. My reaction was based purely on my experience, when you dont know the alternative you rarely look for it in some cases I suppose. Though my message wasnt angry, more just being sarcastic. Though on another note, I tried to sort something out and was juggling multiple things at one time. I messed up and apologised but yet where I would smile and forget it I still feel like a hated little shit over. So f**k it...

Could it not be the neutral gear? Its just a cog that spins with no output and when I stick my YZF into neutral it makes a rapid deeper clonking noise. Just the engine trying to keep going and when you come to a stop there is a tiny amount of drag from the clutch usually so slowing down from speed might make it faster. I'm just speculating here. Could be the chain is too tight as well. Have you checked where the noise is coming from?

It sounds normal, unless you have difficulty starting it and you can prove it isn't the 2-stroke being... Well a 2-stroke then I wouldn't worry.

It does on the accelerating part but when you hold speed it just settles back to what it needs to hold the rpm. Or at least thats what I found with 125's. If you thrashed it you lost 10mpg over all which was 20 miles less range per tank for me. Then I tested it with just holding the speed like a commuter and I gained it back to within a mile or 2 of the original range! So its like going up to a bigger bike, 500cc+ bikes tend to have the same MPG if they just cruise along. The Kwaker Versys 650 does 63mpg and a BMW F800 can kick out the same!

Nice videos Never will be able to do that sort of thing as there is getting your knee down and then there is doing that! I just feel through every bend like Im going to tip over

Plenty you can do, they are bullet proof engines so the following shouldn't harm it too much... 1) Find the right Iridium spark plug, people have always told me these don't do much but on a 125, every little helps. They make a much better spark with less voltage from the battery and combust the fuel more efficiently. This will boost acceleration a small amount though power will only really gain by about 0.5 horse power. However for about £10 its worth it. 2) Would this fit? http://images.wemoto.com/full/FILTER_AIR_PERFORMANCE_CONICAL/10016576.jpg I fitted on onto a Honda CG engine and it boosted power by 2 horse power as the air box was heavily restrictive. You can buy conical air filters from Wemoto and if you have a carbed bike find the right jet and increase it by about 3 or 4 sizes to keep the bike running rich rather than lean. Just look at your spark plug to tell if its running rich or lean every now and again and adjust where needed. 3) A clean service so new oil. Fully synthetic is usually thinner and gets around the engine more so use some of that. 4) Reduce the rear sprocket size and when you do this replace the chain and front sprocket if they are at all worn. Knock off 3 teeth. 5) Is there a different exhaust available for your bike? If so does it allow it to breathe more freely? Get the only that allows for that. If it was doing 60mph top speed before I can say with all this done it will probably kick out 70-75 down a hill. As you will have boosted power to that of the bigger 125s. My YZF-R can do 85 before it hits a limiter and would do 90 without it.

Well hurrah for that, thankfully owning one of these has paid off

Don't use it! For a 125 2-stroke I strongly suggest you use Putoline TTX. With all my 2-strokes they lasted longer than they did on even Castrol oil. Its just a better forumula and £12 isnt much to pay really.

While your at it drain the fluids and replenish them once you have fitted the new gasket. Mine did this but not that much oil and it was coming from a lose seal on my exhaust (Deliberate to keep it drained)

Ah, I thought that FI systems accounted for the stat being closed when they start up It was based on what a bike of mine did, it had weak rpm's at cold start but took ages to warm up and hold a stable rpm.

There is a tight spot, its why in most haynes manuals they tell you to tighten the chain but only when you have found the point where its the most tense.

Fuel injected has an automated choke I thought... I was under the impression it warmed the engine with an automated choke, which is why some bikes rev higher when they turn on. Its the F.I implementing a choke like situation to keep the engine alive. The revs then settle after the engine is warmed sufficiently. Maybe the idle setting for the FI is wrong and its pitting out. Or the thermostat is jammed open the engine is cooling way too much when its switched on. Lots of things it could be. Most likely the FI.

*sigh* I didnt cry, it just really made me feel really gutted. Read it again in an angry context fool, I stormed upstairs and back down a few times with a confused expression as I wondered why it had died. Did it starve, dehydrate... Basically anything that could make it my or the familes fault as I expected to let them die when I moved out. Then jog on as I thought this was a thread for people who are having a bad day. I rode 200 miles, through rain and generally in a bad mood to find one of the few pets I was ever allowed to have dead. Great cherry on top to already a shit day. Or so I thought until I come online to find this response. Call it over the top, I understood when you were angry when lorry drivers were being slagged off. And it was a Hamster... If you are going to hurl an insult at least have the class to get it right clever clogs

f**k it... My parents never let me have pets... Until when I was 18 and they let me have a couple of Hamsters. I am not used to having pets around and found it strange the amount of compassion I showed them and had towards them. Today Calli, the last of the 2 hamster after the first died at Christmas passed away. I wasn't upset but then of course I had to look at her when I lifted her out and remembered when she was new to the home and it just slayed me. The reaction went from quite civilised to me storming around the house inside 20 seconds. I find it difficult to understand why I reacted in such a way as socially Im a bit poor on the understanding part but still I didnt think a tiny hamster would do that to me... Im a strange fella so f**k it and f**k the f**k it and f**k the f**k it twice more... For good measure...

Could there be a blockage in the pipe?

They are fairly solid for 2-stroke bikes. So as long as it has a rebuild every 10,000 miles at most it will be fine. It should have had one or 2 by now. Make sure this is the case or I would be rebuilding it myself in a heart beat. Piece of piss job to do as nothing has to be syncronised with a 2-stroke like you had to with a 4-stroke as the whole process relies on the movement of the piston rather than times valves etc. I have seen and performed rebuilds countless times either with a mate or on my own bike alone. Its easy as hell with a Haynes manual or even just a Youtube video as I learned from.

Mine started to do this, it would work just fine if you used it every day or every couple of days. But 4 or 5 days down the line it wouldn't start. If you replace it, get the best one possible as the results are fantastic. It will have been running sluggish for a while now without you noticing I reckon. It had been with me.

Undo the bleed nipple release nut and attach a tube and pump the brake to squeeze the fluid out, and as it goes down in the reserve just top it up again and repeat until the air is gone, my understanding of it that a few times of doing this will work a treat. Leave the top off the reserve as you do it so you can fill up and any air stuck in the pipes has more freedom to bubble up. Thats how mine worked anyway, I'm telling you this whilst deleriously tired so excuse any mishaps with info given. As you pump the brake with the top off the reserve and the nipple open it will allow the lodged air to be forced downwards. This action means eventually it will be the airs turn to be forced out of the nipple. Thats the working behind it anyway.

EXACT same thing happened to Jin's GPX400. Same bike just different top end and hers is solid black in colour. The front brakes do bind quite badly after a while and this is a recognised flaw with them as it happens to them through age. So when you replace them it shouldnt be a hassle again while you have it. We got it done for free incidentally but I have performed the job on a bike before. Its quite labour intensive, but probably doable for you. So long as you wear some mechanics gloves while you are handling the fluid and keep it away from your eyes. I would drain the whole system and slip the calipers off. Then you have to take them apart and replace the seals and give them a good clean. If you have a Haynes go for it and use the web as an infinite resource. Youtube will probably have videos on how to perform the task. If you know someone who can do it for you though a wink and a smile wouldnt go a miss in trying to get them to do 3 or 4 hours of work for you

Use Wemoto, they will have a few options for you to take For your bike: http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/Honda/CBR_600_FY/00/ And the various batteries... http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/Honda/CBR_6 ... gh_Torque/ http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/Honda/CBR_6 ... ery_Nitro/ http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/Honda/CBR_6 ... y_Pattern/ http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/Honda/CBR_6 ... ery_Yuasa/ I reccomend either of the top 2, they last far longer than any of the other batteries I have posted here!

When done with standard fuel it has a good effect, the test was done with the high octane stuff and they chucked it in or at least the one I read about did. The bike I used it with gained power as it had done over 5000 miles on student budget fuel (cheapest you can get) and I put in double the required dosage and it cleared out my engine and it gave me power back

Its good but not as good as STP. STP really clears your bikes system, and it doesn't have any ill effects. Also boosts power more noticeably than redex. http://www.stp.eu/uk/images/product_completefuelsystemcleaner.jpg And the link to Halfords... http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_165750 Enjoy

Dont pass your test to go and jump to the biggest bike possible Though well done for passing! And its spelt "Theory"! Its any wonder the spelling and grammar SS haven't bundled you away in their van by now