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I saw that page earlier, unfortunately they are for turn signals so only have two-pins. It does not seem such a strange thing to want to do (with any brand of box) or an unpopular bike, so I can only think most peoole are happy to scotchlok it given not a single person online has said anything about it. Those look fantastic, much better than splicing. I will measure the cable gauge tomorrow and if my luck does not change with the connector (and I am not optimistic by now) I will order some of those instead. Thanks!

But that defeats the objective. Changing to just a random connector means if I or anyone else ever needs to replace or upgrade the light unit it will have the wrong connector. At least splicing into the cable means I can simply remove it and tape back over the splice, as I did to uninstall it from the 125. And are you saying it is definitely an OEM connector that cannot be bought or just assuming? If the former I will just go with a splice. Not my preference but it would be the best way to retain stock condition, and is the "correct" way of installing the kit after all. I checked the three-pin ones but none appear to have those two centred connectors underneath the female pins. Mind, it does not help their photos are all from above, so any in which the pins are set back are obscured by the socket casing. I have now joined a bike specific site though, so hopefully someone there will recognize them.

But in that case I may as well just expose the cables, twist the box ones around it, then wrap it in some tape. Which is how it was on the 125, although the box kit actually came with scothlok connectors but they felt too lose. The reason for wanting to make an adapter is to do it properly so I can get it back into stock condition if necessary. I should have taken a photo of the underside of the female connector on the lamp end as it also seemed to have something more going on inside it. Maybe it was just tape, but it looked like something orange wound around the cable?

I have tried a Google image search, but could not find anything I was confident enough was the same. I need to know whatever I buy will fit, so was hoping someone would know the exact type they use. And the one you linked does not look like it has the lower clips to be able to connect.

What is this connector used by Honda for the tail/brake light?

Sorry to hear it did not go well today, you were very unlucky with the clutch as normally you can just pick them up and carry on riding. But as everyone else has said, dropping them is really quite normal so do not let it get to you. And better to do it on a school bike than your own!

I would still get it lowered as you will want to stop on surface not as nice as a showroom floor, but that is for the future. Good luck today. Just relax and enjoy it.

Aye. We give the same things different names for different circumstances, like weave. So now you have seen all it is you need to have you decided the three day course will be enough?

Via, are you sure you have never swerved around anything? What about a wet manhole cover or a speed pillow? As Radders says it is not too drastic a manoeuvre, and more like the sort of thing you probably deal with all the time without realizing it. Not all swerving is about an unexpected obstacle but can be the result of your planning so you can ride a smooth line rather than needing to brake and accelerate. If you are on a road with speed pillows and can see that it is clear and safe, one way to practice is to try to keep to the middle of the lane by just moving into the centre of the road to go between pillows then returning. The aim being to do it without needing to slow down, obviously as the speed limit and conditions will allow. You come around a bend, see a hazard in front of you, but instead of taking appropriate action you have to accelerate towards it then swerve off the road (as at my centre the swerve was to the left). I hated it because it was so unnatural, that you have to ignore your instincts. But I did it when it mattered, so by my reckoning that means anyone can do it.

Unfortunately if it is near impossible not to do a DAS course, it is only really the A1 licence for 125s you can do without going through a school. Even if someone will let you borrow their bike, you can only practice on it privately as you need to be accompanied by a DVSA approved trainer to ride on the road. Which also includes private car parks to which the public has access. And although that might not be a problem, you will struggle to find anyone willing to insure you to ride a bigger bike as a learner, which you will need to have for the tests. Schools also tend to pre-book test slots for their students, so doing it directly you may have to wait a while for places to be available too. For the bike I would have a mechanic look at it. You cannot be riding in too low a gear as they do not have the range to reach those speeds. The filter and plug can effect economy, but should be covered by servicing. So does under inflated tyres, but I assume you check those, and similarly with the chain tension. Besides, you would lose power too and you are already getting everything the bike can give. It is strange, but if you are happy with what you are getting then it might not be worth the time or effort depending on how long you choose to wait on the DAS and upgrading.

Well you are a bit heavier than me, but still seems low. http://www.fuelly.com/motorcycle/yamaha/ybr_125 You can do the tests on whatever you want if you are over 24, it only depends on which licence you want. But for the full A category then yes, it needs to be at least 595cc and 54bhp or above. For A2 category it is at least 395cc and up to 47bhp, and you can ride a restricted MT-07 on that licence. But the school will provide the appropriate bike for whatever category you choose.

I did far far longer than I needed to, but as you have done a few thousand miles and are confident riding then you should be ready. Everyone is different, but once you feel you can even ask the question it is probably time. And if anything, the longer you wait the more likely you are to pick up bad habits that could go against you in the Mod 2. But are you filtering for nearly all of your commute, as 82 mpg sounds pretty low for a YBR125? I was around 100 on mine with just urban riding, and even going flat out in top gear into a wind with a giant top box I was still in the 90s when filling up.

I agree with Westbeef, you should be okay with the three day course. A large part of the extra practice for Mod 1 is being able to control a bike, so if you are comfortable on the road you already have that. As it sounds like test nerves, which are pretty common, I do not think the extra day would make the difference between passing and failing Mod 1. Plus, if you can find somewhere quiet you can practice most everything needed for Mod 1 beforehand anyway. That way the paid training will mostly just be about getting used to the bigger bike. The skills are the same, and the only thing you cannot practice on a 125 is wheeling the bike between two boxes because the weight is so much lighter.

You can get an R3 lowered by an inch or so by having the shocks replaced with shorter ones (and the side stand to accommodate) so that should make a big difference for you. I do not think it is that expensive either. Some 125s can also be lowered, though for something you do not intend on riding for long it is obviously not worth the hassle and expense if you can find a bike you are okay with to learn on as you seem to have done. That YBR125 sound about the right price for the age and miles from a dealer, though you can get them cheaper if you look at private sellers. But with the added benefit of a warranty it sounds good to me plus they will have to tell you about things like outstanding credit so that is something else you do not need to worry about. One tip, the consumer protection you get when buying anything over £100 with a credit card applies even if you only pay a deposit that way. It does not matter how little the deposit is, or how you pay the rest, the full purchase price is protected. So if possible I would asked to pay a deposit on a card to secure the bike "whilst I go to get the cash." Although I am possibly a bit too trusting with dealers, and have had no reason not to have been, so if paying all cash was necessary to get it for £1800 I would definitely do that. It is less to lose when you sell it on and can go towards the tests or the R3. And to post photos you need to click on the Attachments tab underneath the Submit and other buttons. That will show an Add files button you can then use to upload them to the site.

How confident are you on the road? If you feel okay with your riding then a three-day course should be fine. The DAS then is mainly just getting used to the bigger bike and practicing the stuff you will need to do on the tests. Most five days courses for people with no experience is just the CBT, a day of road learning on a 125, then the three-day course. So you are probably ahead of them. Depending on the school it might be possible to book a three-day course but if you feel you need it after the first day to pay for an extra session before the tests. Or ask if they can offer an assessment ride to decide what is best if you have doubts about your own riding.

The handlebar height is definitely quite a difference. As it was my first bike it is just what I was used to so never a problem , but after spending all day at my first DAS session on an XJ6, riding back home on my bike just felt very weird having my hands that high! I actually miss it now though as the more normal handlebar height means more body weight on my hands. The regular YBR125 has lower bars, and apart from the cosmetic differences it otherwise the same bike as the Custom version so might be something you want to consider simply because it will be the cheapest to buy. And the seat height is about the same as on the R3 although the riding position is different. But I would say the best bike for you sounds like the Honda CBR125, as it is also a super sport and though the riding position is a bit more upright the seat is only slightly higher than the R3. Although the Yamaha YZF-R125 is just the next size down down in the range from the R3 and logically the better option, the seat is over an inch higher so it sounds like that might be a problem for you. Although you never really know until you sit on one. There is also the Suzuki GSX-R125, with a similar seat height to the Honda, but as that is a brand new model any second hand ones will still be very expensive.

We just all love bikes and riding so are happy to help others share in that! And I started on a YBR 125 Custom. It is not an exciting bike itself, but you can have a lot of fun on one. Mine took me 200 miles to my parents with luggage, on hundreds of day trips, around town for hospital visits and shopping, and many times to a local car park for figure-8s and U-turns. And all for under £10 for 200 miles. I just wish I could afford to insure a second bike so could still use it around town.

As with taking the CBT, a training school will provide the bikes for a full course and cover the insurance, as well as a helmet, coat, and gloves if necessary. The only things you will need are the CBT and theory certificates, suitable trousers, and ideally a pair of boots. And those can just be strong jeans and anything that will protect your ankles. And absolutely you can ride a 125 to ride whilst taking the course. Fundamentally there is no difference between a 125 and a big bike other than the power, so all the basics you can learn on a 125 whilst taking the course will only help you. Although the courses themselves are not that long. If you take to riding easily though and get some 125 experience first to be comfortable on the roads then you may only need a three-day course. That will just be on a big bike and start with a day getting used to it and practicing for Mod 1. The second day will be, as time allows, a bit more practice, Mod 1, then some road practice. And the third day a bit more road practice ahead of Mod 2. Schools usually will leave around a week between the second and third days, so if you fail Mod 1 there will be time to redo it and keep the Mod 2 date. So if you have a 125 there will be plenty of time to practice between the three course days. Without the 125 experience you will want a four-day course, which starts with a day of riding on a 125 to get road experience, then follows the the same as the three-day course. A five-day course, incidentally, is just a four-day course plus the CBT. Given you will have to get a theory test booking, then book the DAS course, take the tests, then buy a new bike, it will probably be a month at the least before you have your licence and a bigger bike. So it depends how quickly you want to be riding and whether you think you will need the extra time on a bike, but I personally would still consider the 125 if possible for the experience you can get in the mean time. The only drawback is that it being winter, and looking like it could be a cold and icy one, is that you may not get much riding time. But once you have your licence there is no pressure for when you have to change bikes. So even with a full licence you can still spend as long as you want getting road time on a 125 and, if buying second hand, taking your time to find the perfect bike.

The CBT consists of three main parts, some class room learning, some manoeuvres done off-road, and some riding on the road. This in essence is what the theory test, Mod 1, and Mod 2 are the more comprehensive versions when going for a full licence. Anyway, after the CBT you have two options: 1/ Ride a 125 with L-plates (and no motorways or pillions) for the next two years. 2/ Go for training and test for a full licence. What is right for you depends on your personal circumstances, such as: 1/ How you learn, some people may find the time spent riding a 125 or self-learning to be more helpful to them, others may not. 2/ Why you are riding, a 125 might be enough for you for now, others need to commute on motorways or dual carriageways where they will need the speed of a bigger bike or a full licence. 3/ How much you can afford, a 125 is cheap to tax and has far better MPG than anything else, a bigger bike not only costs more to run but you also have the upfront costs of the training and tests that you could be saving whilst riding a 125. 4/ How old you are, which will determine the sort of licence you can get. If you want to go for a full licence though then you will need to do the theory test first, however you do not need to complete this to ride a 125 on a CBT. So unless you plan on riding on just renewing your CBT in two years (some people do) then it is best to book that now and start practicing. You also need to be over 24 to get a full A category licence to ride any bike, this is what DAS refers to. If you are over 19 you can get an A2 licence which will allow you to ride an R3, but you would then need to retake Mod 1 and Mod 2 after two years (or once you are 24) to upgrade to the full licence. So it can be expensive if you are unable to wait. (An A1 licence which you can get if you are under 19 is not worth bothering with unless you need to ride a 125 on motorways or with pillions, as you have to wait two years to upgrade to an A2 but would be 19 by then so able to test for it anyway.) You can use your own bike for the tests, but unless you are going for an A1 licence which restricts you to a 125 then this is not a realistic option. You are unlikely to get insurance to ride anything bigger than a 125 without a full licence, plus you would need someone else to take the bike to and from the test centre as you will not be able to ride it there. And there is no legal way to privately learn to ride a bigger bike on the road so you would need somewhere suitable to learn the bike and practice on it. So that leaves your only realistic option for anything over a 125s as going through a training school. They will provide the bike and insurance, and by being accompanied by a certified trainer will allow you to ride a bigger bike with L-plates. Were you already an experienced rider then you could ask a school about just doing the tests with them, but as a complete beginner that is not a good idea and I cannot imagine any willing to take that risk, so you would be looking at a full training course which will be from around £600. Second-hand Japanese 125s, such as the Yamaha, hold their value well, though. They are very reliable and many people want one after completing their CBT, so usually you will not lose much financially by buying one to ride until you are ready to move on to something bigger then reselling it. But as a complete beginner, the only good advice that can be given is to do the CBT and see how you feel after that. You may even hate the experience! But only then will you know how confident you feel about going straight for training for a full licence, or if you would prefer some time on a 125. You can also ask the instructors for advice as they will be far better informed having seen you on a bike than people on a forum can ever be. And generally people on forums can only tell you what was right for them or their ego, but everyone is different.

If you had it fixed by a professional then just take it back to them, as they did not do it properly and should correct it free of charge. This is their problem to fix.

I do not recall anyone ever asking in a 125 vs immediate-DAS discussion about what choice will make you a better rider. Part of my reason for wanting to ride a 125 is that everyone was saying they are more difficult as big bikers are more stable and forgiving. To me that meant it would make me a better rider. In the end I did 23k miles on mine and on all manner of roads. I think I learnt a lot going up and down the likes of the A3 on a bike that can only do around 60 mph. You have to be more aware as you cannot simply accelerate out of trouble. Only you know your learning styles, and where and how much you will be riding, but it sounds as though you have made a decision that is right for your circumstance. And as my signature says, 125s are fun. You are riding a bike and even without motorways you can still go almost anywhere. My 125 took me on days out from London to places like Poole, Gloucester, and Coventry. So maybe its destination were sometimes questionable, but still you can do a lot and have a lot of fun on just a 125. The only question I would have about your original plan of riding a 125 over winter then taking the DAS is to think about how often you will be riding as you will not be commuting. You do not have to be a fair-weather rider to still decide to stay in when there are warnings of icy roads or strong winds if you would only be riding for fun. Wrapping up warm is easy enough, but dangerous conditions are not fun. And that is still true even if only going to a local car park to practice slow speed manoeuvres. Somewhere that is quiet enough for practice will also see ice last longer without traffic to thaw it. And the same can be said of quieter roads once you get outside of the city. Mainly all I am saying is, do not set yourself a timetable if you do not need to. Ride when you can, but you will learn better when you are able to enjoy it rather than just endure it.

If you buy a Japanese 125 you should be able to sell it for similar to what you paid. And the difference will be money well spent, both for the useful riding experience and just the fun of being able to do so.

You also need a qualified instructor with you to ride an A2 bike. You do not need anyone with you to ride an A1 bike though. Which is how most of them are ridden: unaccompanied on just a CBT. Unlike a car you are on your own when on a bike, so you cannot be accompanied by a full licence holder. Only when with a qualified instructor can you ride anything more than a 125 on the road.

On the 125 I had Michelin City Pros, because they were the only tubeless tyres to fit its weird rear wheel other than the dangerous CST ones that Yamaha use to try and kill off their customers. New bike came with PR4s, not tried them in the wet yet but have given me no reason to doubt them dry. So unless they have a nasty surprise, I guess I am a Michelin person.

I have no idea, but insurance companies are not known for their relaxed attitudes! Riding in a different country on the opposite side of the road and with commercial pressures to keep to time it is easy to imagine them considering you as quite a risk. Especially when it is probably not a common situation that many underwriters may decided they are just not interested in covering it. There is a Bikesure thread at the top of the main Motorbike Chat section of the site, you can ask there for advice from an actual insurer. Or just call one and ask for a quote, there is no commitment and you will find out if it is possible or possibly too expensive.