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Does anyone have one of these and can tell me how to use it? I have had a Scala Rider Q3 for a while, but only ever used it to stream music from my phone via bluetooth, and for directions since getting a TomTom. That all works fine, but now I would also like to be able to use the radio yet have no idea how! The manual says in standby mode if you press the MM button (the bigger square one) once it will play music over bluetooth and pressing it twice will turn on the radio. Bit even with nothing playing, pressing twice still skips to the next track on the phone's Music app, even though it is not playing. I had assumed when you are not playing anything over bluetooth it was in standby mode, but the manual does not explain what standby mode is or how to get into it. The only time I can get the radio to work is when I do not have the phone connected. And getting the phone out and turning bluetooth on and off whilst riding is neither ideal nor legal.

The chin strap or the helmet padding? But yes to both. The padding will compress because it is foam, and that is what it does. Whether that will be by enough to become comfortable depends on how too tight it is to start with. If it is bearable when tight then it should become okay. On my helmet (Caberg Duke) I had to loosen strapping to the chin strap as much as possible to be able to fully engage the quick release connector. But over time even this has need tightening back up a little too.

I have only watched two YouTube channels, though not for a while. RoadcraftNottingham is the only one I watch for advice as he is an instructor, and his videos tend to be specifically focussed on a topic rather than a vlog advancedbiker offers advanced rider training course. His videos are excerpts from those rides, with the intercom conversation rather than talking to viewers. So they do not offer advice, but interesting for watching to understand the thinking.

I do not have the confidence in the side stand to do that. Though admittedly I have realigned my bike whilst on the centre stand.

Unless you are literally going up a mountain, you are never going to be too far from help that you need to know what to do yourself before leaving. And if you look after your bike you will be very unlucky if it does have any problems. Obviously it is stuff worth knowing and learning, but it is not a requirement. Breakdown cover can be pretty cheap, and no matter what you learn sometimes you may still need professional help anyway. It is very easy to overthink it and be daunted by a long ride in the beginning. So long a your bike is in good condition, and you take care of yourself (suitable clothing and stopping for breaks) you do not need to do or take anything else. Though I would always say take water, and whilst on a CBT to plan a route rather than trust road signs. (Not that I ever went there, but the sign at Junction 1 of the A14 never used to warn that it was the last exit before it becomes a motorway five miles ahead, though it has been changed now.) If you are worried though the best thing you can do is go out on progressively longer rides.

To be fair this exact thing happened to me a few weeks ago and I did think "huh, I guess that Mod1 stuff does come in handy sometimes" as I merrily pushed it backwards. It happened to me last month too. Could not move the bike at all, paddling or pushing. And it is only a 500. Thankfully there was nothing parked in the road below so I just rode up onto the verge, over the pavement, and into that space. Think I told the story in some thread, because later a car had a same problem with the gradient of the car parkl and crushed its bumper on the kerb. Made me feel less stupid. What am I missing that pushing with the arms is impervious to gravity but not with the legs? As for pushing it on gravel? Goodness me, no.

As well as motorways, there are some restricted road you are also not allowed on, such as parts of the A55 in north Wales. It applies motorway regulations, despite not being one, through signs at the start of the slip roads that include prohibiting anyone on L-plates from joining them. But such roads are rare, that is the only one I know of like that. For route planning, it depends if you are looking for interesting routes or just for avoiding motorways. But I used to just look on a map and make my own, though. But for most planners remember they will think you are able to do 70mph even when avoiding motorways, so will pick longer routes via dual carriageways that will work out quicker for most traffic but will most likely just take longer on a 125 and be far less interesting to ride. Not that there is anything wrong with using dual carriageways on 125 if appropriate to your journey. Lorries are restricted to 60 mph on them, and plenty of other drives are happy to do that speed or slower, so you will not be out of place. And personally I think learning to navigate slip roads when you have to pay attention because you cannot just speed passed them is valuable and worthwhile experience. And I did over 200 mile days trips regularly on my 125, including a 670 mile bank holiday weekend. No problem at all, but I would agree that you should build up to it to see how you both feel riding for a long time. Also look to include a proper break every two hours in your route planning, ideally with quick breaks planned for every hour. That way you are covered if you need them, but can skip them is not, but at least you have the option. Otherwise it is easy to find yourself needing to stop but there being no where safe to do so. Personally I would not stop in a lay-by on a busy fast road (60 mph single or 70 mph dual carriageway) unless you really have to because you will need a very big gap to rejoin as a 125 does not have the acceleration to safely get to a safe speed otherwise.

Not in Sussex or Manchester, apparently. I do not share Throttled's faith that doing nothing means they will suddenly turn into good and courteous drivers and never bother anyone else either. Certainly I am not going to sit there until they run into the back of me if I have to brake, or drive me into a kerb as they try to overtake before a traffic island (well it was a parked car when it almost happened to me) or similar. But what si_owen005 encountered has nothing to do with L-plates or even bikes. That sort of person would equally sit on the tail of a car and pull dangerous manoeuvres against other drivers too.

That. As a learner the lesson here is to realize just what some people are like. Even if you are going at the speed limit, you still encounter some people who think it does not apply to them behaving the same way. Just remember you are not doing anything wrong, they are the one with a problem, but only you can protect your own safety. You are much better having people like that far in front of you than behind you, so at the first safe opportunity let them pass.

I also have a cheap eBay motion sensor that I put under the seat, less sensitive than the Xena but it does work. I know because I usually forget about it until after starting the bike! I would never rely on its own, but for £5 and remote activated it is definitely worth it as it literally takes no effort. All discs are different, so locks are sold based on the diameter of the pins. Just measure the width of holes on your discs, in millimetres, to know what is the maximum size that will fit. In theory the thicker the pin the more secure it will be, as it will take longer to cut, although I am not sure it makes any difference. The pin is not exposed when locked on so thieves are most likely to attack the lock or cut a section of the disc to remove it instead.

Get two disc locks, one for each wheel. If someone really wants your bike they will get it, no method is unbeatable, so security is about putting opportunist thieves off whilst not making yourself so paranoid that you spend as long locking it up as you do riding it. A disc lock takes ten seconds for you to put on or take off, but using two doubles the effort for a thief while still be relatively trivial for you. I have a basic small one which I put on the rear wheel, and a Xena alarmed one for the front. I used to carry a chain around but rarely used it, so now only take it when I know I will be. In part though the value of a chain is when you have something to lock the bike too, otherwise it is just a less convenient disc lock.

Read it this way: "As someone who is a member of a Patched club I will tell you now not to wear it… I saw some comment on here saying that if they give you trouble just call the police, yeah, that would do wonders for you after you get beaten the shit out of or even worse. I'm in the club life and have met people who have killed for their clubs, it's not something you want to test." Skipping over the middle section about the culture, you can see how those two bits read together. Although you never literally said you would do anything like that, it is not a defence when a threat is obviously implied. And you directly connected yourself to it, making it come across as a threat rather than just general advice. Whilst a complaint on its own is unlikely to get you arrested, it would get attention put on you. Especially as Youngbiker819 has made themselves come across as a harmless kid who just wants to play dress up ,and you are promising "even worse." If anything did happen to them, or anyone else locally, you would be making yourself a suspect. So I just thought it worth warning in case you wanted to edit anything, as in that context it comes across badly.

The last page on this PDF has all the measurements to build your own mod 1 circuit: https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/316690/motorcycle-manoeuvring-area-multi-purpose-test-centre.pdf

I am sure as a tough gangster you do not care, but you do realize you have just just committed a crime by threatening someone who is probably just a kid. And over a cheap piece of mass produced embroidery, which does not even have anything to do with your club.

Try it with your outside two fingers. Best to avoid anything involving my outside finger since landing the bike on it the the year. But after discovering that I was covering anyway with four fingers anyway I guess it does not matter.

Apparently I cover the brake with four fingers and control the throttle with my thumb and palm in situations where I want to be ready to brake quickly. I found out as I tried some two finger breaking today. Did not like it, felt like I had no control of the brake and my other fingers were in the way.

I bought this too for temporary use, and used it last Saturday. I had to remove my old one for a couple of reasons, one being that the last time I was out the phone fell off the holder a couple of times! But I am replacing using my phone as a GPS with a TomTom unit. The first thing to note was it does not have any sort of loop to attach a lanyard or similar, so like Mickly I used on of the zips. I could not really get the mount as tight as I would have wanted, both on the handlebars and the ball joint for the connector. Though admittedly between the brake reservoir and the arms to a screen there was not much handlebar space to play with making it fiddly to tighten, so I kind-of gave up. Had it been for permanent use I would have made more effort, but whilst riding it did not move about, including on a motorway, so it was not really a problem anyway. The connector between it and the case looks decent enough. These can break too easily but there was enough flexibility to think the clip should not snap, whilst still holding the phone securely. The case itself is the same as my last one, with velcro to hold the phone to the screen rather than padding to fill out the remaining space, which means you get a little extra storage space behind the phone. Where it did differ from my last phone though is it was a lot more snug. Once I had the velcro right I could slide my phone in and out without touching it, but on the Aldi one I have do undo it to get the phone out. Maybe that will relax over time, or maybe it is better and more secure. The zips were also quite stiffer, though those should give over time and was mainly because of the waterproofing on them, which is a good thing. Otherwise it is pretty much the same as any other universal case, there was no problem with touching the phone screen through the plastic cover. You can never get the plastic perfectly taut, it did not seem too creased, although it was not bright enough to see whether it caused any problems with reflections. Before heading home I also noticed some scuff marks on the plastic screen which I am sure where not there when I bought it. But these are not noticeable when riding and had no impact on viewing on controlling the phone. As I use a tank bag, handlebar mounted phones are not ideal as they can hit the bag and be pushed out of position. But the Aldi one seems as good as any other of its type. And I felt confident with the clip, which is where they can be let down. I am happy to have it as a spare in case I ever need something so I can use my phone.

Well I get my 100% answers from the European Union: "Provisional or temporary licences, international driving permits (or any other certificates issued in your home country) are not regulated at EU level and may not be recognised in other EU countries." https://europa.eu/youreurope/citizens/vehicles/driving-licence/driving-licence-recognition-validity/index_en.htm And in the case of Germany from the Bundesministerium für Verkehr und digitale Infrastruktur: "Your driving licence does not entitle you to drive or ride a motor vehicle in the Federal Republic of Germany: if the licence you hold is a learner licence or any other provisional licence;" http://www.bmvi.de/SharedDocs/EN/Documents/LA/fact-sheet-foreign-driving-licences.pdf?__blob=publicationFile Whilst the British government says of the Netherlands "You must have a valid full UK driving licence, insurance, vehicle documents and identification to drive in the Netherlands… You are not allowed to drive on a provisional license." https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/netherlands/safety-and-security Admittedly it is not quite a "lady on the phone," but it all feels quite 100% official to me.

Actually I am more surprised by how many people never go out of sight of their bike. As much as most of my days out on the bike are mainly for the riding, I like to end up somewhere to break it up, such as sitting on a beach or climbing up a hill. Like on Monday I went to Tewkesbury and had a walk along the river and a look at the abbey. Then I went to Tesco in Stroud for petrol and food, which I ate under a tree in a local park. Finally I stopped off in Bath so I could visit Alexandra Park. It has an amazing view looking down over the city, if passing through it is definitely worth it, just off the A36.

I have the top box for the helmet, I am too worried about what some joker may do to it if left locked to the bike. Being brave enough to leave the jacket too though, wow! Surprised how many of you do not use a disc lock, though.

You are going out on a day trip for a nice ride and will be parking the bike somewhere, leaving it unattended for a while. What security do you take? I carry a heavy-ish chain with me, but I realized I have never used it. Instead I just use my alarmed disc lock. Only when doing something around town and will be parking on a street do I use the chain, but never when stopping on a street elsewhere. Though admittedly days out generally do not involve inner city residential areas.

The point about lorries and coaches is a good one, so some boxes come with kits that integrate stop lights to them, whilst you can get third-party kits that work with any box. Generally the only difficult part of fitting those is working out which cables to the tail light unit you need to attach it to. The problem with handling in the wind with a box is often stated, so did worry me initially. Especially as I was on the 125 at the time so was easily affected by it. But I never noticed any difference with it compared to just using bags previously, it was just as invisible to me. The one downside I did notice of having the box one the 125 though was it reduced my fuel economy, from averaging 110 mpg to 107 mpg. As that was regardless of contents I am pretty sure it was a result of catching the wind rather than the extra weight.

Never thought I would want one, but top boxes are the best. What changed for me is I got fed up having to carry my helmet and tank bag around with me when I went anywhere. Being able to stick everything in the top box and leave it with the bike instantly made going somewhere far more enjoyable. Be that days out or just errands around town. And the advice I was given is get the biggest box you can, so I bought a 47L box. At first it looked stupid on my 125, like the box was bigger than the bike, but I immediately appreciated the space. If you are going to get a box, make it useful as possible. If you choose a third-party system rather than a Honda OEM one then when you upgrade bikes you will only need to buy a new mount, you can keep using the same box which will make the cost of one seem a much better investment. Because your bike does not have a rack you will need to buy one, but fixing one is just a case of bolting and unbolting things and very easy to do. If you search for CB115F luggage racks there are various options. And Givi do universal mounting plates for their systems which can then be bolted onto these. I am sure other systems will do similar. I do not think the Honda price is all that bad for an OEM option if that includes fitting as you need a rack too. But doing it yourself with a third-party one should be cheaper, the Givi rack with a monolock plate and a Kappa box should not be much more than £100.

I have not used that one, but those things are always universal so should work on a motorcycle just as effectively. Though I always do the same as Via using some string, there will usually be some sort of ring on the back to do that. I use a piece of string and a pound shop carabiner (from a pack of four). Just wrap the string around the bars and whatever else and connect it to itself. On several occasions over the past few years my phone has come loose (accident impact, weakened clips), but that piece of string has kept my phone safe. The good thing about making your own is you can ensure it is only as long as it needs to be, so it stays with the bars and does not interferes with the steering or wheel. The two occasions mine came lose I have been able to continue riding until I could safely stop to sort it out.

A gramme is the weight of pure water at 4°C in the mean atmospheric pressure at the latitude of Paris in a cube with sides of a billionth of the distance from the Equator to the North Pole, recorded at sea level. Call me old fashioned but when I buy potatoes the last thing I want to think about is how they are equivalent to how much space pure water, at the temperature at which the molecules are the most contracted before it enters a low energy state, would take up in Paris, as a proportion of the distance from the Gulf of Guinea to the North Pole, but only on a day when the atmospheric pressure is most typical. At sea level. Arbitrary systems are arbitrary, they make no more sense than any other.